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Old 01-04-2011, 11:01 PM   #1
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lift installation tricks needed

My 95 Rio Grande is due for the body bushings change, so I figured I might as well start lifting it little by little. As much as I didn't want to mess with lifting body, I can kind of see some benefits of some moderate lift. I'm buying a 1" body lift by Daystar and as soon as weather allows will start the installation. In any case, the question I had was this - other than PB Blasting the the mounting bolts (that are as we all know are rusted the f.. , sorry , crap out of and at risk to be broken) is there anything I can/should do in advance to ease up the replacement of those bushings?
Also, the next will be either 2.5" or 3" suspension lift installed (most likely RC). With that said is there anything else I can do to either avoid some unnecessary work or perhaps doing something wrong altogether?

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

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Old 01-04-2011, 11:05 PM   #2
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Really inspect the tub areas around where the body lifting pucks are going to be to make sure it can support itself on them. If it is rusty or worn you might consider making some plates out of steel to go between the body and the lifting pucks. Even if there is no apparent damage already it doesnt hurt in the long run...

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Old 01-04-2011, 11:12 PM   #3
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... you might consider making some plates out of steel to go between the body and the lifting pucks. Even if there is no apparent damage already it doesnt hurt in the long run...

like 3"X3" squares out of 16ga steel just to reinforce the area?
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:26 PM   #4
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Yeah. I am not sure of the thickness of 16ga off the top of my head, but we used 1/8" plate on the last one we did. My buddy purchased the steel 1/8 X 3" (I think) by 8' long and we just cut it up with a chop saw and drilled holes with a drill press and made big square washers out of it.
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:29 PM   #5
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did you guys weld them on or left free hanging?
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:38 PM   #6
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did you guys weld them on or left free hanging?
I couldn't imagine a difference. I think that would be up to you. Welding wouldn't really do much. Just keep it from moving, but I doubt it would move anyways.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:17 AM   #7
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Free Hang!!!
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:24 AM   #8
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use an impact gun to take the old bolts off. i didnt have one at the time that i did my body lift but i should have borrowed one. i snapped off 3 bolts and had a time getting them out of the nut. i had to cut through the top of the tub to get the nut out and in a vice. i used a breaker bar and they just couldnt handle the stress.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:38 AM   #9
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Don't forget, PB Blaster and give them a good soaking. Those things haven't been touched in years. I'd spray them at least once or twice a day for a few days leading up to removing them.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:03 PM   #10
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what's in regards to total lift necessities? I understand that I'll have to change brake lines. High pathetically, for the max of 4" total lift (1" -body, 3" - suspension) will I have to drop the T-case, change Pitman arm, etc.? Anything else?
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:20 AM   #11
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It depends on the kit you purchase. Generally speaking most people will need a transfer case drop or SYE conversion for anything over two inches of lift. You mentioned Rough Country, so going with the 4" lift, it comes with everything you need including the drop pitman arm and the transfer case lowering blocks. They also include something that relocates your brake line mounts which allow you to keep your standard brake lines.

Shoot me a PM and I'll see if we can get you a deal on whatever lift kit you go with.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:17 AM   #12
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Body lift has nothing to do with break lines and etc. All you should have to do is drop your radiator back down to the frame with some brackets after lifting your body. Keep an eye on your fuel filler hose too, you should have enough, but may not if it has been altered. Also check your shifter linkage(s), again you should have clearance, but...
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:24 AM   #13
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There is no way I would risk breaking the body bolts off in the tub for a body lift. I don't care of you PB blast it for the next 5 years it won't get up into the wellnut where it needs it. The best bang for the buck, performance, and ride is a SOA kit. You will gain 5.5" of lift, better than stock ride, and tons of flex.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:57 AM   #14
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This would be true if the goal was to go high. I need to maintain street/highway drivability of my jeep and because of that I won't go higher than 4" between BL & SL plus whatever wheels will give me.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:06 AM   #15
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Do whatcha want, but I am speaking from 14 years of SOA experience.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:15 PM   #16
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I'm looking at these two kits on ebay and one question comes to mind (compare the kits' parts lists) - are really all those parts needed or it's just a box full of garbage that will rot in my garage after I receive them?

kit 1

kit 2
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:25 PM   #17
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I am in the process of installing a 2.5 inch rc lift. I got mine from their website for the same price as e-bay, but added some extras like upgrading the shocks, steering stabilizer, and new spring bolts. I can let you know tommorow if I have any issues, so far none and have done the front. I think that I made a good decision for the money.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepAddOns-Chris
It depends on the kit you purchase. Generally speaking most people will need a transfer case drop or SYE conversion for anything over two inches of lift. You mentioned Rough Country, so going with the 4" lift, it comes with everything you need including the drop pitman arm and the transfer case lowering blocks. They also include something that relocates your brake line mounts which allow you to keep your standard brake lines.

Shoot me a PM and I'll see if we can get you a deal on whatever lift kit you go with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
There is no way I would risk breaking the body bolts off in the tub for a body lift. I don't care of you PB blast it for the next 5 years it won't get up into the wellnut where it needs it. The best bang for the buck, performance, and ride is a SOA kit. You will gain 5.5" of lift, better than stock ride, and tons of flex.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 60mg
This would be true if the goal was to go high. I need to maintain street/highway drivability of my jeep and because of that I won't go higher than 4" between BL & SL plus whatever wheels will give me.
Ibuildembig makes a good point.. Rust hides in awful places..And the 4" RC (what i have) is GREAT on the road. Just drove about 300 miles on the highway and besides the underpowered 2.5 it was an awesome ride. 4" aint to high either, when you need to jump, use a rope or trampoline to get in, THEN its big lol.! Just keep in mind that once you lift a little you WILL want more.. I do
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:06 PM   #19
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I've been reading for a while now while trying to decide on a lift. I'm really leaning toward a SOA kit similar to this kit.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:21 AM   #20
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I'm assuming that after suspension lift the wheel alignment is required also. Right? If so, who does those? regular shops, some specializing in lifts places? I'm not even talking about recalibrating speedo for new wheels (different thread)
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:53 PM   #21
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Just bought a 2.5 RC suspension and 1" Daystar body lifts. It'll be fun
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:14 AM   #22
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Am I going to need anything else like extended brake lines, t-case drop, etc. if I put a 2.5 suspension with 1"-over-stock-length shackles? It's about 3" up to my understanding. Kind of close ?!?!
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:17 AM   #23
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It all depends on what your uses are gonna be. You could always run the front feed line under the frame instead of above it and gain 4 inches of travel on it. Theoretically you shouldn't need to change them.

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