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Old 11-21-2010, 12:37 PM   #1
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Question lift kit!

Hey guys i was looking at the rough country 4in lift kit for my '95 and was wondering what all i need to get with it. Like should i get the front and rear S.S brake lines? replacement spring eye bolts? what are some good things to get with the kit? Is a SYE and CV drive shaft needed? ive read on here that some people dont use and some do. Also I have the 4cyl and would like to run 33s, what are some things that i would need to do this? regear? upgraded brakes? Can you give me a cost estimate for a 4in lift kit and 33s? Im pretty new to this so, im sorry if some of these questions are obvious or ignorant. Im just looking for some advise! which i know you guys have!
Thanks
-Sam

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Old 11-21-2010, 01:05 PM   #2
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I would definatly get longer brake hoses. The old ones do fine until you put the jeep on a lift then it has a tendency to collapse the line( found out the hard way). The lift will run about $500 with shipping. Upgrade the shocks, the basic ones ride kind rough. Are you installing it yourself or taking it to a shop?

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Old 11-21-2010, 01:08 PM   #3
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ill probobly do it myself, or well the help of my Dad, and my uncle (who owns his own auto shop)
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:00 PM   #4
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anyone else got some information ??
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:47 PM   #5
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Buy an angle grinder, a case of beer, and pray to the jeep gods.
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:39 PM   #6
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haha, ive already got all that. i guess well see what happens. Would u happen to have like a total cost estimate ?
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:23 AM   #7
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Definitely get 8 new spring eye bolts. The old ones more than likely rusted to the metal sleeves. I installed the supplied spacers at the transfer case and works fine without a SYE. Consider changing the steering damper expecially with the larger tires. Get it realigned after the installation of the lift. Read the lift instructions carefully, assume nothing. The eye bolts at the front of the spring are a different size than the rear of the spring. I did not need to extend my brake line , just used the mounting relocation bracket. Although I did end up replacing the entire front brake line. The line was rusty when I re-bent it(not much required) it broke. Not too hard to replace. Good Luck..
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Old 11-22-2010, 03:06 PM   #8
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I put this lift on 2 weeks ago. Get the new eye bolts. I didn't get new break lines or do the SYE with driveshaft. The break line relocater and trensfer case spacers work good enough for now. I'm running 33's but they rub a bit on my rear plastic fender when off roading. I'll need to trim the plastic finder a bit. I'ts a good kit for the money.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:13 PM   #9
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I put this lift on 2 weeks ago. Get the new eye bolts. I didn't get new break lines or do the SYE with driveshaft. The break line relocater and trensfer case spacers work good enough for now. I'm running 33's but they rub a bit on my rear plastic fender when off roading. I'll need to trim the plastic finder a bit. I'ts a good kit for the money.
did you notice any vibrations at high speed due to not useing a sye and new drive shafts thanks
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:01 PM   #10
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did you notice any vibrations at high speed due to not useing a sye and new drive shafts thanks
x2, I was very curious about that as well.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:08 PM   #11
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i see stl. whereabout are you? and i have a 94 4in spring lift, 3body and stock drive shafts and dont notice anything wrong. and never had a problem with it. now when i go bigger i will be puttin in cv shafts but till then these do just fine. idk if its been mentioned but i would regear the axles as well or you will deffinetly feel them tires. and extended brakelines are a must if youre gonna offroad. ive had my 33's touchin fenders itll flex alot more then you would think.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:14 PM   #12
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i see stl. whereabout are you? and i have a 94 4in spring lift, 3body and stock drive shafts and dont notice anything wrong. and never had a problem with it. now when i go bigger i will be puttin in cv shafts but till then these do just fine. idk if its been mentioned but i would regear the axles as well or you will deffinetly feel them tires. and extended brakelines are a must if youre gonna offroad. ive had my 33's touchin fenders itll flex alot more then you would think.
What engine do you have ? 2.5 or 4.0 ? Have you regeared ? and i live in the city right around the ted drews(on chippewea) area. If you know where that is
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:22 PM   #13
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i thought you only need to regear for 35 and up,i heard it work fine with 33
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:26 PM   #14
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I have that lift and I like it. Had one on a CJ before and liked that one too. I tried to go without the SYE on the YJ but I finally gave in and installed one. It was okay around town but I drive on the highway a lot and felt it was vibrating too much at highway speed. Vibration is a bad thing for rotating equipment. Definately get extended brake lines and new bolts.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:40 PM   #15
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I have that lift and I like it. Had one on a CJ before and liked that one too. I tried to go without the SYE on the YJ but I finally gave in and installed one. It was okay around town but I drive on the highway a lot and felt it was vibrating too much at highway speed. Vibration is a bad thing for rotating equipment. Definately get extended brake lines and new bolts.
I think ill skip the SYE and a drive shafts for know, just to see how it goes. but if it vibrates bad on the highway then ill look into the SYE and drive shafts. Is it necesary to regear for 33s with the 2.5l? How much slower will i go with the stock 4.10s?
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:47 PM   #16
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:53 PM   #17
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what size ratio on a 1992 sahara 4.0 6 speed 6cyl.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:26 PM   #18
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on the chart it says 4.11 gears are right in between the yellow (better gas milage) and green (near factory) does that mean its not bad, but not neccisarily good ? could you give me a little insight on that ? thanks!
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:27 PM   #19
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did you notice any vibrations at high speed due to not useing a sye and new drive shafts thanks
It runs fine at 70ish (now my speedometer is off). I didn't notice any vibration. It is bumpier than stock, but it still feels very stable on and off road.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:33 PM   #20
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on the chart it says 4.11 gears are right in between the yellow (better gas milage) and green (near factory) does that mean its not bad, but not neccisarily good ? could you give me a little insight on that ? thanks!
Factory would give you rpms close to factory gearing. "Mileage" range will lower the rpms and theroetically give better gas mileage but only if you have an engine that won't bog down under the lower rpm. If you are on the gas more to keep momentum up with the lower rpms you can forget the mpg improvement.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:34 PM   #21
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What engine do you have ? 2.5 or 4.0 ? Have you regeared ? and i live in the city right around the ted drews(on chippewea) area. If you know where that is
i have the 4.0 and automatic. but no i havent regeared but you can really feel it, im torn on regearing these or getting new axles and regearing them with lockers. but either way it needs to be geared. but i can still run 70 if i reeally wanna.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:36 PM   #22
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I think ill skip the SYE and a drive shafts for know, just to see how it goes. but if it vibrates bad on the highway then ill look into the SYE and drive shafts. Is it necesary to regear for 33s with the 2.5l? How much slower will i go with the stock 4.10s?
I think that's a good idea. You can always upgrade the drive shaft and SYE later if you need to. Same with the gears you can always upgrade later. It should run at least OK with your 4.10s.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:36 PM   #23
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Factory would give you rpms close to factory gearing. "Mileage" range will lower the rpms and theroetically give better gas mileage but only if you have an engine that won't bog down under the lower rpm. If you are on the gas more to keep momentum up with the lower rpms you can forget the mpg improvement.
Thank you that makes more sense now
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:42 PM   #24
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i have the 4.0 and automatic. but no i havent regeared but you can really feel it, im torn on regearing these or getting new axles and regearing them with lockers. but either way it needs to be geared. but i can still run 70 if i reeally wanna.
The automatic transmissions are geared higher which make it difficult to do the lift and 33" tires without a regear. My YJ runs 3.07 gears which works okay for me because I have a 3 speed auto and a V8 it can take the low RPM's. I have to drive on the highway a lot and I only turn 2100 rpms at 70 mph. But as soon as I break the rear end I have a 4.10 to go in.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:46 PM   #25
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i have the 4.0 and automatic. but no i havent regeared but you can really feel it, im torn on regearing these or getting new axles and regearing them with lockers. but either way it needs to be geared. but i can still run 70 if i reeally wanna.
I'm running the same as you also. 4.0,auto, 4inch with 33's. I haven't regeared either. It works well enough for now. I'll regear when I put in new axels with lockers. But I think if anyone is on a budget the kit from RC works pretty good just as it is.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:55 PM   #26
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The automatic transmissions are geared higher which make it difficult to do the lift and 33" tires without a regear. My YJ runs 3.07 gears which works okay for me because I have a 3 speed auto and a V8 it can take the low RPM's. I have to drive on the highway a lot and I only turn 2100 rpms at 70 mph. But as soon as I break the rear end I have a 4.10 to go in.
If you dont mind me asking, how much was it roughly to do the V8 swap ? did you upgrade the transmission to ? if so what did you use ?
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:04 PM   #27
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Don't mean to hijack the thread..but roughly how much does it cost to regear? I've been throwing numbers around lately..
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:07 PM   #28
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Don't mean to hijack the thread..but roughly how much does it cost to regear? I've been throwing numbers around lately..
I wouldnt consider that hijacking at all, im about curious about it as well!
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:10 PM   #29
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I wouldnt consider that hijacking at all, im about curious about it as well!
hahaha yeah Ive got a 1992 4.0 standard that I wanted to do a 4 inch lift with 33s but I might have to go 3 inch lift with 32s so I don't have to regear. I heard it costs a lot
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:13 PM   #30
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hahaha yeah Ive got a 1992 4.0 standard that I wanted to do a 4 inch lift with 33s but I might have to go 3 inch lift with 32s so I don't have to regear. I heard it costs a lot
seems like most things do cost a lot. haha. I have a 2.5 so im sure ill have to regear at some point, but maybe ill just look for some better axles with better gears and maybe lockers! haha

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