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Old 02-17-2011, 08:47 AM   #1
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Lifters making noise? Mine were.

This helped my motor but now my distributer is making noises.

I changed just the lifters, bridges, and pivots. However you may want to change your cam and rockers but this post is just for the lifters.)

We have all heard that ticking that jeeps make. Some think its normal and drive forever like that, but if your like me it gets on your nerves. Makes me feel like my jeep was going to leave me stranded. So I decided to go ahead and swap them out.

List of what is needed
-New head gasket (part# 53020754AB) 17.99 at Morris4x4.com
-(12)Hydraulic Lifters (part# JB-2011) 3.99 each at autozone
-Lifter tool 8.99 to borrow at autozone and you can get your money back.
-(6) pivot Kits (part# 3236513K) 3.99 each at Morris4x4.com
-Haynes repair manual for backup 15.99 at Morris4x4.com
-Basic hand tools in standard and metric
-The hardest part for me was the 12 point 1/2inch, deep well in 1/2 drive. (for head bolts)
-torgue wrench in 1/2inch drive
-penetrating oil
-heavy degreaser
-clean catch pan

If you need to I would suggest taking pics of the motor as you go to remind you in case you forget where something went.

Step 1 (removing everything from the upper part of the motor)
Using the drain plug on the bottom left of the radiator I began by draining all the coolant. After the coolant was removed I removed the heater hoses and tied them back out of the way. Next i took the pressure off the fuel lines and removed them. Next I removed the air intake off the intake manifold. I also took off all the wires that attached to the injectors, sensors, and anything else in the way. You also need to remove all the vaccum fittings being careful not to break them. I used zip ties to hold everything out of the way.

Step 2 (removing the exhaust)
When I parked the jeep and it was cool i soaked the bolts and nuts on the exhuast manifold that attaches to the rest of the exhaust with penetrating oil. You will be taking off the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached. Once it was given some time to work the oil in I removed the two bolts and that was all the exhuast needed.



Step 3 (removing the power steering and belt.)
There are several different layouts on this so be sure to follow your diagrahm. There are 3 bolts that hold the power steering pump onto the intake manifold. Once the belt is removed by either loosening the tension bolt on the idler than you will take the three bolts out of the power steering pump and tie it out of the way.

Step 4 (removing the valve cover and head)
Next you will want to remove the valve cover and make sure to lay your bolts out in order. They have a certain place because of wires that mount to them.
Once the valve cover is off you can remove the rockers and push rods. Be sure to place them in order also. Here is how i did mine. Next you can remove the head bolts. you must place these in order also. This is where you will use that hard to find 12 point socket. Once all stuff is removed from the head you may take the head off with manifolds still attached. Be sure to use a lift or extra help because it is heavy this way.



Step 5 (cleaning and checking your head, rockers, valve cover, and push rods)
I used brake cleaner and a scotch pad to clean the head and block where the head gasket goes. I used heavy degreaser on the rest several times with water to remove all the build up. You will want to check your push rods by using a perfectly flat peice of metal or something equal. You are looking for any warpage. Also be sure to blow out the holes for the oil. If they are stopped up or out of shape replace them. While you have the valve cover off be sure to clean it very good because the build up has been known to cause pressure issues and create blow by.

Step 6 (removing the old lifters and inspecting the pistons.)
I wanted to be certain it was not piston slap so I checked the pistons out very well. Looking for any wear or scarring. Next while the lifters were still in place i vacummed all the grime out of the motor and mine was bad. I don't believe the oil got changed regularly by previous owner.





To remove the lifters use the lifter removal tool according to its instructions. They will be sucked in since they are hydraulic. Once you have them out go ahead and put them next to the new ones to check the wear and also to see if they are collapsed. Mine were aweful. They were wore out, stopped up and would not work properly.





Step 7(putting the motor back together)
Make sure to push oil in your new lifter and soak them so that it does not start dry. Do the same with your new pivots and rockers.
Mainly it will just go in reverse for putting the motor back together. Just be sure to torque the head bolts in the sequence that is called for and torque specs called for. Don't forget the number 11 bolt is a little different and needs thread sealant and torques to a different spec than the others. Also torque the rockers to spec. If you need the order and specs you can ask me.
don't forget also to put new coolant and burp your system when your done. The lifters will make some noise when you first crank it up. You will also want to change the oil after a little bit of running. Im sure you will get some coolant and sludge in there.

So this was a vague idea of what it takes to replace the lifters. Please make sure you know what your getting into before you start. This is not a job for someone that knows nothing about motors. My knowledge is not great but I do have a good understanding and great mechanical skills. I was also bound to forget something in this post so please feel free to add what i missed. lol.

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Old 02-18-2011, 09:04 AM   #2
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wow.......... I THINK I AM GOING TO ASK FOR SOME HELP ON THIS ONE.....MAN........THANKS

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Old 02-18-2011, 09:08 AM   #3
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Oh, yea, did it take care of the TICK
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:27 AM   #4
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Yeah for the most part. But My distributer is making all kinds of noise. Not related to this job though. lol. Just time for a new one i guess. Only every once in a while does it tick. I honestly think it is because there is still a little trash in the motor and it will take a few more oil changes. But before it did it all the time and really bad.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:29 PM   #5
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thx man
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:59 AM   #6
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Distributer is fixed also now. My motor is 90% quieter now. lol. As for the distributer it was an easy fix and did not have to buy a new one.
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Old Yesterday, 09:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshd4 View Post
This helped my motor but now my distributer is making noises. I changed just the lifters, bridges, and pivots. However you may want to change your cam and rockers but this post is just for the lifters.) We have all heard that ticking that jeeps make. Some think its normal and drive forever like that, but if your like me it gets on your nerves. Makes me feel like my jeep was going to leave me stranded. So I decided to go ahead and swap them out. List of what is needed -New head gasket (part# 53020754AB) 17.99 at Morris4x4.com -(12)Hydraulic Lifters (part# JB-2011) 3.99 each at autozone -Lifter tool 8.99 to borrow at autozone and you can get your money back. -(6) pivot Kits (part# 3236513K) 3.99 each at Morris4x4.com -Haynes repair manual for backup 15.99 at Morris4x4.com -Basic hand tools in standard and metric -The hardest part for me was the 12 point 1/2inch, deep well in 1/2 drive. (for head bolts) -torgue wrench in 1/2inch drive -penetrating oil -heavy degreaser -clean catch pan If you need to I would suggest taking pics of the motor as you go to remind you in case you forget where something went. Step 1 (removing everything from the upper part of the motor) Using the drain plug on the bottom left of the radiator I began by draining all the coolant. After the coolant was removed I removed the heater hoses and tied them back out of the way. Next i took the pressure off the fuel lines and removed them. Next I removed the air intake off the intake manifold. I also took off all the wires that attached to the injectors, sensors, and anything else in the way. You also need to remove all the vaccum fittings being careful not to break them. I used zip ties to hold everything out of the way. Step 2 (removing the exhaust) When I parked the jeep and it was cool i soaked the bolts and nuts on the exhuast manifold that attaches to the rest of the exhaust with penetrating oil. You will be taking off the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached. Once it was given some time to work the oil in I removed the two bolts and that was all the exhuast needed. Step 3 (removing the power steering and belt.) There are several different layouts on this so be sure to follow your diagrahm. There are 3 bolts that hold the power steering pump onto the intake manifold. Once the belt is removed by either loosening the tension bolt on the idler than you will take the three bolts out of the power steering pump and tie it out of the way. Step 4 (removing the valve cover and head) Next you will want to remove the valve cover and make sure to lay your bolts out in order. They have a certain place because of wires that mount to them. Once the valve cover is off you can remove the rockers and push rods. Be sure to place them in order also. Here is how i did mine. Next you can remove the head bolts. you must place these in order also. This is where you will use that hard to find 12 point socket. Once all stuff is removed from the head you may take the head off with manifolds still attached. Be sure to use a lift or extra help because it is heavy this way. Step 5 (cleaning and checking your head, rockers, valve cover, and push rods) I used brake cleaner and a scotch pad to clean the head and block where the head gasket goes. I used heavy degreaser on the rest several times with water to remove all the build up. You will want to check your push rods by using a perfectly flat peice of metal or something equal. You are looking for any warpage. Also be sure to blow out the holes for the oil. If they are stopped up or out of shape replace them. While you have the valve cover off be sure to clean it very good because the build up has been known to cause pressure issues and create blow by. Step 6 (removing the old lifters and inspecting the pistons.) I wanted to be certain it was not piston slap so I checked the pistons out very well. Looking for any wear or scarring. Next while the lifters were still in place i vacummed all the grime out of the motor and mine was bad. I don't believe the oil got changed regularly by previous owner. To remove the lifters use the lifter removal tool according to its instructions. They will be sucked in since they are hydraulic. Once you have them out go ahead and put them next to the new ones to check the wear and also to see if they are collapsed. Mine were aweful. They were wore out, stopped up and would not work properly. Step 7(putting the motor back together) Make sure to push oil in your new lifter and soak them so that it does not start dry. Do the same with your new pivots and rockers. Mainly it will just go in reverse for putting the motor back together. Just be sure to torque the head bolts in the sequence that is called for and torque specs called for. Don't forget the number 11 bolt is a little different and needs thread sealant and torques to a different spec than the others. Also torque the rockers to spec. If you need the order and specs you can ask me. don't forget also to put new coolant and burp your system when your done. The lifters will make some noise when you first crank it up. You will also want to change the oil after a little bit of running. Im sure you will get some coolant and sludge in there. So this was a vague idea of what it takes to replace the lifters. Please make sure you know what your getting into before you start. This is not a job for someone that knows nothing about motors. My knowledge is not great but I do have a good understanding and great mechanical skills. I was also bound to forget something in this post so please feel free to add what i missed. lol.
I appreciate the article but this sounds tough ...but that tick is driving me. crazy
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Old Yesterday, 09:32 PM   #8
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I don't have EFI but I have a 4.0 block and head, and even with head studs (they make the job more tedious because all 14 studs have to be removed for the head to clear the firewall for removal) I had my cylinder head off in 30 min last time I had it off. It's really not bad. Lifters are super easy to remove with just a smallish 90* pick and some long reach needle nose pliers.

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