I was driving home yesterday and went to change gears and when I pushed in the clutch there was barely any pressure. I could push the pedal half way in with no resistance and it didn't engage until about an inch from the floor. Over the course of my drive (about 30 miles) the pressure slowly came back and by the time i was home everything seemed back to normal. I know absolutely nothing about the clutch system, although I have pulled one and replaced it before. But where should I start looking? I have heard of bleeding the clutch? Is this similar to bleeding brakes? Or is there a part that is about to fail that I should be prepared to replace?
Could have just been an air bubble that worked its way out of the system or was in the MC. Check to make sure your fluid level is proper in the MC.
Pay close attention to the pedal for a few days and see if it recurs. If not, fluke.
"For Gawd's sake, put a RELAY in there or you could burn the whole damn Jeep to the ground" ...this quote brought to you by people who do not understand the law.....Kirchoff's, Ohm's, or Faraday's.
Violation of KISS shall always ring false in TRUE engineering. - ME___
Had 75CJ5, 89YJ, 93YJ. Have 82CJ7 & 95YJ____Not one burnt yet due to lack of relays.
Well I pulled the cap by the brake booster that says clutch and I see fluid about halfway up the tube. Is that the only place to check? I am planning to drive it some today so I guess I will see if it does it again.
Could be a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. If it is an 87-94 (in 95 Jeep got smart), you will have to pull the transmission to do the slave (might as well do the clutch while you are in there). I was a mechanic, and not to say it couldn't happen, but I have never seen a bubble work it way out. If there is air in there, it needs to be bled. Try bleeding the system first, and take it from there, you may not have to replace anything, but air doesn't generally show up in the system out of the blue. Good luck.
'89 Yes a Junker, 150c.i. of AMC power and plenty of rust! 100% paid for.
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Well I drove it for the past few days with no issues and I thought I was in the clear but I got in it this morning and the clutch went straight to the floor. It will not go in gear while running but will go in first and second while not running. Given my inexperience with transmissions....
Can someone point me in the direction of the bleeder?
And is this an external slave cylinder? Its a 94 but I know the trans isn't the original
And what is involved with replacing the mc and slave? Is it just unbolt and replace and hook up the lines?
yes that's it 94 and 95 are external some can not be bleed you need to see if there is a small allen head bolt on the slave if so that's where you bleed it when my clutch did that is was the master cylinder bypassing internally
My first question is it leaking on your feet or do you see drips is fluid inside the cab above the clutch pedal?
I had two master cylinders go bad in the last 90 days.
You can bleed the system by pulling the cover plate off the transmission inside the cab take gear shift knobs off and both boots should see two hydraulic lines one long going to MC one short going know where bleed from the short one.
Make sure not to drain the MC dry or you will have to start over.
i took everything apart today. no leaking on the inside from the master so i replaced the slave. drove it around the block for a bit and it seemed fine but i should know tomorrow when i really get out and drive it a bit
bump as im having trouble with this too, clutch works just fine when engine is shut off, doesnt work at all when enghine is on, guy at Oreilly said my master cylinder was diluted with water and seems a little but just barely low. So im guessing i need to bleed this and refill it?
I ended up just replacing the slave cylinder. When I got it off I could tell that the spring on the inside was jammed up so I just replaced it. I drove it 500 miles the next day and its been fine since. Bleeding the new slave cylinder was a PITA though, but I can tell you how I did it if I need to
Well mine was only 50 bucks at O'Reilly. I usually use Napa parts but they didn't have one and I needed it right away. I think the one from Napa was about 70. I just realized though that mine is an external slave, and if you have an 88 which is an internal slave I am not sure how that will compare. But to bleed the system, I couldn't get the valve to work So I filled the new slave cylinder with fluid and attached it to the hose. I didn't bolt it in, but just left it hanging underneath. Then I filled the master completely full and with the cap off, I pumped the pin on the end of the slave cylinder which pushes the air through the hose and out the top of the mc. When no more air bubbles came out, I filled it full and put the cap on and then installed the slave cylinder.