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Old 12-06-2012, 08:50 PM   #61
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I started by painting the hard to reach areas with a brush, under the pedals, the side walls and under the tub rails. This was the "hardest" part, mostly on my knees and back. You're supposed to "dab" it on instead of "paint" but I ended up doing both, it seemed to work ok.



I branched out from there and started using the roller on the tub floor and walls. Even though the temp was around the upper 60s I noticed the liner was already getting tacky and setting up. The directions said to go slow but I felt like I was going too slow.





The roller really sets the texture and makes quick work of the tub. Before I used up what I had in the pan it started getting a film on it. I'm sure I put too much in the pan to start with and should have used it a little more sparingly but it worked in the end.




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Old 12-06-2012, 09:00 PM   #62
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It's a good thing I hung the plastic, as expected I got sloppy and dripped liner several times.





Here's a pic where the liner got a "foreign body" in it. It was either a gnat, there were a couple flying around and one landed on the wet tub that I quickly cleaned up, or it was some of the liner film. I pinched it up and when I rolled over it with the second coat you couldn't even tell it was there. I'll post an after pic later.



Here's the first coat complete. It's shiny when wet but dulls down after it dries.







I'll post some pics of the final coat tomorrow with all the masking removed.

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Old 12-08-2012, 07:35 AM   #63
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Here's a few pics of the second coat after it had 24 hours to dry. I pulled all the masking tape and plugs immediately after the second coat was applied. Everything came off, or out, without any problems.







The ear plugs worked well keeping the liner out of the threaded holes. The only issue I ran into was a couple plugs came out while I was applying the second coat. The liner was tackier during the second coat and pulled out the plugs that had a loose fit. No big deal, I just popped a couple new plugs in and rolled over the area again.





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Old 12-08-2012, 07:57 AM   #64
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Here's a couple more pics, trying to show the texture.









And of course there were a couple "fails" in the process. I already mentioned the gnats that got in the mix, there were also some areas that I dripped, or the liner mix clumped up, and I didn't find it until after the liner dried. This pic shows one of the drips that I missed. It looks big because I took a close up pic but it's actually pretty small and doesn't stand out. If you look at some of the other pics closely you'll see little bumps that are from the mix after it started setting up. I'm not concerned about any of it and I actually think it adds to the texture.



I closed the tail gate litely to see if the liner caused any fitment problems and it doesn't appear that it has. I'm going to wait a week before I start putting the interior back in, including the doors. I'll check fitment on those too and post some pics.



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Old 12-08-2012, 08:14 AM   #65
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Looks awesome and will add many more years to your vehicle. I'm jealous..
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #66
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x2^^^
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:28 AM   #67
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Looks awesome and will add many more years to your vehicle. I'm jealous..
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Thanks guys, the more I look at it the more I like it. I'm over the hump now, just got to get the interior back in.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:31 PM   #68
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Looks awesome, can't wait to get mine done. I think I'm going to take a part out and prep it as I go. Getting a heater for the garage for Christmas, so maybe by then ill have it all sanded and prepped. Hope I can wait that long.

R
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:42 PM   #69
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Looks awesome, can't wait to get mine done. I think I'm going to take a part out and prep it as I go. Getting a heater for the garage for Christmas, so maybe by then ill have it all sanded and prepped. Hope I can wait that long.

R
Thanks, I know the feeling. I got delayed by work, honey-dos and bad weather before I was able to get mine done.

Prepping everything before you open the can is a good idea since the liner mix sets up pretty fast once you add the catalyst.

If you can keep your garage above 50, with decent ventilation, you shouldn't have any problems. Mine was in the 60s and the liner still set up faster than I thought it would. The directions said I could stretch the application process out over a 24 hour period but even with the cool temperatures it dried quick enough that I got it done within 8.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:26 PM   #70
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Geeze, this sanding is tedious. How to guys just take a weekend and do this whole project. I'm looking at about a two week process. Maybe I get bored easy
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:22 PM   #71
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Geeze, this sanding is tedious. How to guys just take a weekend and do this whole project. I'm looking at about a two week process. Maybe I get bored easy
I spent several hours sanding and scuffing over a couple days. Did the problem areas first with a wire wheel and the rest with an electric sander and scuff pads. The sander with 120/150 grit moved things along.

I dont know if you have any glue to deal with but that was the real pain for me
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:41 PM   #72
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Haven't done a lot lately, I picked up new bolts to replace the torx bolts, stainless steel hex head of course.

When I carried the torx bolts into Starbolt the girl at the counter said "We don't carry torx bolts" I said "I don't blame you". She understood completely.



Used some of them to put the rollbar back in, they stand out a little but it's worth the trade off.





I also cleaned up the door hardware and reintalled it using the original torx screws. I decided the torx screws weren't as problematic as the bolts and it was easier to use them than to find replacements.





New rollbar pads, seats, seatbelts and instatrunk are next then I'll get the doors on.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:26 PM   #73
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Your liner looks great. I have a electric palm sander but I bought 220 grit. It's not removing the gloss finish like I want it too. I also do not sure think im going to remove my roll bar? Is there any reason why you did.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:15 PM   #74
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He removed the rollbar so he can get the covering underneath of the rollbar itself so if the roll bar ever starts to have any problems you can simply replace it and it won't rust the floor.. And it looks "cleaner"
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:07 AM   #75
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I did it between football practices on a Saturday and Sunday last year. Between the fumes and concussions I was seeing stars for days!
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:59 AM   #76
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Your liner looks great. I have a electric palm sander but I bought 220 grit. It's not removing the gloss finish like I want it too. I also do not sure think im going to remove my roll bar? Is there any reason why you did.
Jackedup95 gave part of the reason why I pulled the rollbar; I had some surface rust behind the rollbar and under the bolt plates I needed to get to so it wouldn't fester under the liner. I also didn't want to cover the rollbar bolts with liner since it would make it a nightmare to remove them later if I needed to. With the rollbar out of the way it was also easier to roll on the liner and get to tight spots.

Other than two bolts that gave me some trouble it wasn't difficult to pull the rollbar. You may want to get a buddy to help you lift it out, I didn't and ended up wrestling with it while trying not to hit the sides of the Jeep or bang it on the ground. You'll definitely want someone to help when it comes time to put it back in.

Just for the record I'm not saying you have to pull the rollbar, I've seen several threads where people didn't, it was just something I needed to do.

As for the sanding my Monstaliner directions recommended 120 to 150 grit paper and a scuff pad. I started with 120 and it worked fine. The only reason I ended up using 150 is because I ran out of 120 and didn't want to go back to the store. I think if you pick up some 120/150 the sanding will go a lot quicker.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:02 AM   #77
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I did it between football practices on a Saturday and Sunday last year. Between the fumes and concussions I was seeing stars for days!
Yep, between the fumes from the MEK, the Goof Off and the Monstaliner I could have skipped the beer...but I didn't.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:51 AM   #78
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I see. i may end up taking it off since i want to do it the best i can. i will have to remove my soft top to do so. it would be nice to have a hard top for this project. i think i under estimated the depth of this project. everyone makes it look so easy.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:04 PM   #79
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Has anyone ever rhino lined under neath there jeep? Let me know if you have.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:48 PM   #80
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I dont know about rhinoliner under the tub. i have it in the bed of my truck and its a soft rubber. i do not know how it would hold up to the heat. they have a product called lizard skin which is made for undercoatings. its a insulator and can be sprayed.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:50 PM   #81
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hmmmm.. When I got my YJ it was already lined and the back seat was just sitting in it.So I drilled some new holes not thinking about the hole being cover over. Same thing with the seat belts,which I dont have. So does anyone have a diagram or close up pics of where they should be?

And sorry if I`m hijacking on your theard!!
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:49 AM   #82
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i think i under estimated the depth of this project. everyone makes it look so easy.
Yep, me too. Seems like it's taking forever to get it done too.

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hmmmm.. When I got my YJ it was already lined and the back seat was just sitting in it.So I drilled some new holes not thinking about the hole being cover over. Same thing with the seat belts,which I dont have. So does anyone have a diagram or close up pics of where they should be?

And sorry if I`m hijacking on your theard!!
Here's a couple pics that might help. The first is with the back seat and belts bolted in. The second pic is after I pulled the interior and shows the bolt holes. The holes are threaded so if you have them they should be easy to identify.



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Old 12-16-2012, 12:04 PM   #83
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Yep, me too. Seems like it's taking forever to get it done too.



Here's a couple pics that might help. The first is with the back seat and belts bolted in. The second pic is after I pulled the interior and shows the bolt holes. The holes are threaded so if you have them they should be easy to identify.



Thanks that should help lol I have mine WAY back farther then that !
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #84
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monstalining

Just wanted to Thank You for a great layout on this.The pics are awsum. I'll be doing mine soon and will refer to this thread for guidance.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:00 PM   #85
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Just wanted to Thank You for a great layout on this.The pics are awsum. I'll be doing mine soon and will refer to this thread for guidance.
Glad to do it, I needed some help to get started and I'm just passing it along.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:07 PM   #86
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I'm still working on reinstalling the interior. I mentioned earlier in this thread that I needed to replace my inner shifter boot since the original one tore apart when I removed it.



I searched the internet, local Jeep dealership and local four wheel drive shop but couldn't find an OEM or aftermarket replacement. Ebay had a couple originals but they weren't in any better shape than the one I had and I figured they'd tear apart too.

The problem with finding a new inner boot is my Jeep is an automatic and only has the one stick on the floor; the boots on the market are for standards, with two sticks, so they have two holes and are bigger in size. According to the Jeep dealer the part I need is obsolete and no longer available. So I decided to redneck engineer my own...don't flame me too hard.

Here I cut what was left of the center section out.



Here's my replacement material. It's an old motorcycle inner tube I've had laying around.



Did a little cutting to get the fit.







Wiped the cover plate area down just to make sure there wasn't any oil residue, put down some waterproof silicone adhesive and screwed the cover plate down.









Slipped the inner tube over the stick, knob removed first, and then screwed the plate down over it. I ran the stick through the four wheel pattern to make sure it moved okay and called it a day.

I know I probably didn't need to do this, it's gonna get wet or muddy in the tub either way, but there was a boot there when I took it apart and I wanted one there when I put it back together.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:37 PM   #87
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I also got my Corbeau seat bracket and back seat bolted in.





Gonna keep it under plastic until I'm completely done.



Also got the rollbar pads partly on. It's not a perfect fit and will need to be modified. I don't know why but there isn't a bolt hole for the front rollbar section that connects the bar over the driver/front passenger shoulder to the main section of the rollbar. I'm gonna have to punch a hole in it to make it work...unless I'm missing something.



The last thing for today was reinstalling the front carpet, outer shifter boot and reattaching the entry guards.





I initially wasn't going to reattach the entry guards but decided the door areas had so much wear and tear that it would be a good idea. I considered buying new ones but decided to try gluing the old ones back on, they aren't in bad shape, they just didn't have the glue strips.



Masked the area good since the glue tends to drift when you spray it. Also put cardbord in the tub area to protect the carpet; some one who plans ahead probably would have done the glue before putting in the carpet





I coated both the Jeep and the entry guards so the glue stuck well, no clamps needed. If it fails on me I may use small sheet metal screws but right now they seem to be on pretty good.





Next thing is modifying the rollbar pad to fit, installing the front rollbar sections, reinstalling all the seatbelts, instatrunk, console, make some front seat brackes, install front seats,...
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:46 PM   #88
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I forgot to include this pic of the completed home made inner shift boot, I trimmed it up before I put the carpet and outer shift boot over it.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:27 PM   #89
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looking good.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:28 PM   #90
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looks fantastic.
But why put carpet back in? Me no comprende....

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