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Old 06-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by amerdt4 View Post
Well , I think they were dropped off at the house today , I'll stretch them out and see where I sit before I weld anything , If they dont seem to give me full range then I'll send them back . I dont see Rubicon selling a part for their setups that arent meant to go though .
That is your best bet. You need to know where your travel is before selecting a shock. If you do not have upper extensions and then move your lower mount up, it is possible to bottom out the shock and/or loose some of it's travel. IMO I would flex it out and find your full travel for top and bottom of your shock range. Although RE may not intentionally send you a part that doesn't fit, you are doing a custom set up and there really is no 'one part fits all' solution is all cases.



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Old 06-26-2013, 04:48 AM   #32
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Ok , I have another one for you fellas ... Anyone know where to find steel braded brake lines to replace the rubbers on the axle?

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Old 06-26-2013, 04:51 AM   #33
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Here's where she sits ...

95 yj build-up
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:35 AM   #34
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That is your best bet. You need to know where your travel is before selecting a shock. If you do not have upper extensions and then move your lower mount up, it is possible to bottom out the shock and/or loose some of it's travel. IMO I would flex it out and find your full travel for top and bottom of your shock range. Although RE may not intentionally send you a part that doesn't fit, you are doing a custom set up and there really is no 'one part fits all' solution is all cases.

WRM
Get the teraflex upper shock bar. Beats the upper shock extensions IMO.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:50 AM   #35
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Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:14 AM   #36
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Ok , I have another one for you fellas ... Anyone know where to find steel braded brake lines to replace the rubbers on the axle?
East Coast Gear Supply sells a whole brake line kit for the YJ 8.8 swap.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:25 AM   #37
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I found braided lines on amazon from rough country for about 50.00 for the front hoses.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:10 AM   #38
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:09 AM   #39
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Got the ones from ecgs . The other ones from Rough Country and Crown wont work cause they are vehicle specific . The ones I was looking for are the soft line ends on the Ford 8.8 rear end . Unlike the Wrangler or the Dana 35 axles the 8.8 has hoses that connect like the front and arent hardline into the caliper .
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #40
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Got the ones from ecgs . The other ones from Rough Country and Crown wont work cause they are vehicle specific . The ones I was looking for are the soft line ends on the Ford 8.8 rear end . Unlike the Wrangler or the Dana 35 axles the 8.8 has hoses that connect like the front and arent hardline into the caliper .
There is no point in even worrying about those lines. I have had my Jeep through hell up to bottoms of the doors more times than I can count and have never had a problem with the rubber ones.

By hell I mean milk shake consistency mud, and swamp crap with a bunch of stuff growing out of it hanging all off my axles. Never a problem.

The only one to worry about is the one from the body to the axle.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:47 PM   #41
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There is no point in even worrying about those lines. I have had my Jeep through hell up to bottoms of the doors more times than I can count and have never had a problem with the rubber ones.

By hell I mean milk shake consistency mud, and swamp crap with a bunch of stuff growing out of it hanging all off my axles. Never a problem.

The only one to worry about is the one from the body to the axle.
Ive ripped a rubber caliper line before. It isnt that hard. Someone also smashed one on a rock last week when we were out wheeling and it pinched it and it started leaking.

It is not that big of a cost to have the peice of mind of a stronger line, plus better brakes from the lack of a rubber line to swell under pressure.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:56 PM   #42
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I have replaced all the other rubber lines with Rubicon steel braided ones and wanted to keep it consistant . Plus i didnt want the rears to be the weak link in the system . Steel braids do have upgraded qualities in durability and rigidity . Plus I hear chicks dig'em.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:48 PM   #43
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Ive ripped a rubber caliper line before. It isnt that hard. Someone also smashed one on a rock last week when we were out wheeling and it pinched it and it started leaking.

It is not that big of a cost to have the peice of mind of a stronger line, plus better brakes from the lack of a rubber line to swell under pressure.
If someone smashed the 8.8 rubber line on a rock they did a crap job installing it. It doesn't move since it goes from a hard line to the caliper unless you dont secure it. Mine are on top of the tubes and tucked out of the way. I have been bushwacking with my Jeep, and doing seriously deep mud all the time and never had a problem with them. I have driven through crap time and time again that was so horrible you would have to hack your way through with a machette to try and get anywhere on foot. I also was just romping around on some of the Red trails at Rausch with no worries.

Although I did weld in all of the hard line mounts, maybe I moved them a bit? I cant remember for sure, but it would be one in a million for me to damage them.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:59 PM   #44
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if someone smashed the 8.8 rubber line on a rock they did a crap job installing it. It doesn't move since it goes from a hard line to the caliper unless you dont secure it. Mine are on top of the tubes and tucked out of the way.
+1
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #45
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Factory location with SUA. The hardline is attached with a bolt to far edge in the back of the spring perch. Then the line goes up to the caliper.

All it takes is one good rock or log.
Ever have a rock in beween your spring and wheel? I have a bunch of times. We seem to have an abundance of skinny rocks that love to bash calipers
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:20 PM   #46
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Yeah I am set up SOA. I welded bolts to the top of my tubes to bolt down the line to. My lines actually go over my springs to the calipers. When I bought my 8.8 i stripped it completely of everything with a grinder. That is why I dont remember the stock locations.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:47 PM   #47
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So have anyone of you guys done brake booster upgrades? Or master cylinder? I have bled my brakes like 5 times and when I stop the pedal pretty much goes to the floor . I slow down but no where near a safe stopping speed . I have 35's
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:58 PM   #48
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Not to knock at you mechanical abilities or nothing but did you start at the right rear and let it gravity bleed? Or at least start there with the old have a buddy help bleed method? I am currently doing the 8.8 swap and am curious if I am going to have this issue too.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:05 PM   #49
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Yes , I did RR , LR , RF , LF .
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #50
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I've read that if you get the proportioning valve from an XJ then it helps but not sure. Do you have any leaks? If you bleed it again do you still get air?
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:28 PM   #51
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No leaks , no air
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:33 PM   #52
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Mmmmmmmmm I'm stumped. Hope I don't have any issues. See if you can Pm OverkillYJ and see what he did if anything he as well has done the 8.8 swap.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:40 PM   #53
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Yeah , I'm just waiting for the OG's to chime in
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:48 PM   #54
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For the brakes on mine which was a 95 4.0L i was told i would have had to have changed the proportioning valve as early years pre 94ish don't work well with the rear disc. thus my 95 was gtf. again not sure but that is what I was told.. mine had no issues working.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:57 PM   #55
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I didn't need to swap proportioning valves. The brakes on my 8.8 stop my 35s better than my D35 drums stopped stock tires.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:21 PM   #56
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You should take the little O-ring out of the proportioning valve so it distributes the pressure evenly. Drums take more pressure to stop so the rear will get more then it needs. I kill back brakes way faster then I should because of that. Haven't gotten around to doing it myself yet. There are a few write ups on it though. Seems to be the easiest way to correct the issue instead of taking a proportioning valve from something else.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:53 PM   #57
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Ok so explain in detail how you bleed the brakes it is a fairly straightforward process.

Did you pump the brakes?

Or slowly push them as someone bleed?

Or did you bleed while someone else pushed?

It can take about 5 times on one position of slowly pushing and when they bottom the person slowly pushing ha to hold it down til you lock the bleed screw back then they can release otherwise your pulling air back in.

So start with brake farthest from the reservoir then work your way forward.

Also look for any leaks all bleed screws need to be tight before you stop and also open li to reservoir make sure it never runs dry

Then tell us what you have after all that!

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Old 07-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #58
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Well, i'm still at a loss . Three more bottles of brake fluid and I cant figure this out . I went through the whole brake system , all lines , all connections no leaks . I had my father come and help me , we looked it over together , re-bled the lines . When the jeep is running my brake light is constantly on until I pump the brakes up and it seems like after that I have good compression but it goes away , the light comes back on .

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