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Old 11-05-2009, 12:04 PM   #1
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More door woes

I replaced the windshield frame cowl gasket on the YJ, and now the doors won't close without slamming them. I did have a tough time bolting the roll bar extensions back to the windshield frame because of the new, thicker gasket. (it cracked my windshield too) lesson learned. Should I try and readjust the doors, or will it fix itself after the new gasket softens up or flattens out more?

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Old 09-21-2015, 11:26 AM   #2
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I realize this is an old post but I recently ran into the same issue. Anyone have any advice?

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Old 09-21-2015, 02:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbus227 View Post
I realize this is an old post but I recently ran into the same issue. Anyone have any advice?
The struts going from the main hoop to the windshield frame are adjustable.

You can set the angle of the windshield to line up with the doors and make a good seal.

I used a POS 1" ratchet strap run through the footman loop at the center of the windshield frame to pull mine back into place and get the bolts started. Pulling on 1 side at a time is what caused his windshield to crack.

I cant see a new cowl seal being a problem with getting the doors to close. If anything the thicker seal would keep the windshield frame up higher and have less contact with the door.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:07 AM   #4
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just loosen the hinges and smack them in the direction they need to go..
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:25 AM   #5
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I go through this every Fall as I don't use the spreader bars in the summer.

If the windshield isn't where it's supposed to be the upper door alignment is thrown off as the soft top is connected to the windshield.

With the hinge plates loose I get the windshield in position and tighten down the tamper-proof T-45 at the rear of the spreader bars. That is the bolt that ultimately determines windshield angle. The adjustable slot on the spreader bar is about two inches long so, there are two inches of 'play' with the windshield.

One click at a time to avoid cracked glass....

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Old 09-22-2015, 12:38 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info! I'm going to give it another try this weekend. I was only able to get 3 of the 4 bolts in the spreader bars last weekend (at the windshield mounting location) and thought that may have something to do with the door alignment but I'll try to adjust the hinges as well.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:55 PM   #7
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Here is a hint for adjusting the struts from the main hoop to the windshield. If you don't have a proper sized security torx to loosen the bolts at the rear of the struts, remove them with a large vice grip. Take the removed bolts to your local auto parts store and buy 2 conventional hex head bolts. (They may be metric).
Raoul has come up with a great way to adjust the windshield frame.
Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:03 PM   #8
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Your doors adjust to the tub and the windshield frame adjusts to the doors. If your doors fit the tub prior to replacing the cowl seal I would leave them alone and concentrate on adjusting the w/s frame.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:02 PM   #9
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Luckymac, thing is, the doors opened and shut perfectly before I installed the new cowl seal. Now the passenger door is off by about 1/16" (I'll upload a pic as soon as I figure out how to). The driver door is a little harder to close than before but it's hardly noticeable. The driver side also happens to be the side I was only able to get 1 of the bolts back in on the spreader bar to windshield mount.

With regards to the angle of the windshield with the spreader bars installed, should the angle of the hinge on the windshield be along the same plane as the angle of the hinge on the body?
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:05 PM   #10
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Here's the passenger door.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbus227 View Post
...I was only able to get 3 of the 4 bolts in the spreader bars last weekend...
Nope, all four those should go all the way in very easily without any stress or load.

The spreader bar slides, at the rear.
Here is the one we're talking about. Loosen, hold the windshield where it needs to be, then tighten it down.


You don't need to remove your padding to get to this bolt.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:58 PM   #12
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Raoul, does this process sound about right?

1. Remove the (2) bolts that hold the windshield to the dash.

2. Remove the (3) bolts I have at the windshield / spreader bar mounting location. (The Driver side is where I only have (1) bolt holding the spreader bar to the windshield).

3. Loosen the spreader bar adjustment bolts.

4. Get the spreader bar mounted with all 4 bolts at the windshield / spreader bar mounting location.

5. get the windshield where it's supposed to be (with the help of a friend or a rig similar to what you did).

6. Tighten the spreader bar adjustment bolts.

7. Put the (2) bolts back to the dash mount plate.
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:41 PM   #13
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That will work.

I didn't have a friend so I put a couple of eye bolts in a 2x6 and used ratchet straps.

If you decide to use a friend, the friend will have to be:
Fat
Patient
Not offended by verbal abuse
And have a robust vocabulary of cuss words with the implied meaning of each.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:24 AM   #14
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That will work.

I didn't have a friend so I put a couple of eye bolts in a 2x6 and used ratchet straps.

If you decide to use a friend, the friend will have to be:
Fat
Patient
Not offended by verbal abuse
And have a robust vocabulary of cuss words with the implied meaning of each.
You missed one.....likes to drink beer!
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0III0forlife View Post
The struts going from the main hoop to the windshield frame are adjustable.

You can set the angle of the windshield to line up with the doors and make a good seal.

I used a POS 1" ratchet strap run through the footman loop at the center of the windshield frame to pull mine back into place and get the bolts started. Pulling on 1 side at a time is what caused his windshield to crack.

I cant see a new cowl seal being a problem with getting the doors to close. If anything the thicker seal would keep the windshield frame up higher and have less contact with the door.
0III0forlife, Did you use the roll bar for the fixed side when you used the footman loop to ratchet the windshield down? I actually am a little baffled as to why the passenger door frame is closer to the door latch (which is the issue). As you mentioned, with the thicker, new seal I would've thought it would be farther away vs. closer. (see attached pic in this thread)
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbus227 View Post
Raoul, does this process sound about right?

1. Remove the (2) bolts that hold the windshield to the dash.

2. Remove the (3) bolts I have at the windshield / spreader bar mounting location. (The Driver side is where I only have (1) bolt holding the spreader bar to the windshield).

3. Loosen the spreader bar adjustment bolts.

4. Get the spreader bar mounted with all 4 bolts at the windshield / spreader bar mounting location.

5. get the windshield where it's supposed to be (with the help of a friend or a rig similar to what you did).

6. Tighten the spreader bar adjustment bolts.

7. Put the (2) bolts back to the dash mount plate.
Raoul has you on the right track. His invention with the 2X6 looks better than trying to pull on the footman loop.
Once you have the pressure from the windshield frame off the doors, check the fit of the doors. If they fit properly prior to the new seal, I am guessing that they will fit properly once the pressure from the windshield frame to the door frame/gaskets is removed. Please keep us posted. We want to help. Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:43 PM   #17
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So after work today, I put the windshield down and when I tried the passenger door, it was back to normal. I bought some beer and the guys at work held down the windshield while I got the spreader bar bolts back in. The passenger door was back to being hard to shut. I didn't have the security torx for the spreader bars so I wasn't able to get those loose but it's obvious that it will fix my door closing issue. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:36 PM   #18
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Use vice grips to get the old security torx bolt out and install hex head bolts. Use heavy flat washers and grade 8 bolts and you will be able to adjust your spreader bars anytime. Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
...If you don't have a proper sized security torx to loosen the bolts at the rear of the struts, remove them with a large vice grip. Take the removed bolts to your local auto parts store and buy 2 conventional hex head bolts...
Excellent suggestion.
Big box stores don't have this size I had to go to speciality shop.
The size in question is : 7/16 (thread count 20)
Length is 1 inch.
The OEM bolt is slightly longer than 1 inch but 1 1/4inch (the next size) is too long.

You will need a washer because the hex head is smaller than the OEM button head.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:35 PM   #20
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Up above I said the pictured bolt was a T-45.
It's actually a T-50.

(I can't sleep at night if I know I have expended bad poop)
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:18 AM   #21
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Haha Raoul! Thanks again for the info.

Last week I tried to loosen the spreader bar torx bolts and wasn't able to. It occurred to me a couple days ago that I probably need to loosen the windshield bolts on my next try (before I hit the spreader bar again). I'm going to try to get that done this weekend so I'll everyone posted. We have a shop and supplier at work so it should be no problem for me to find the proper size bolt to change out. On the up side, it's been raining a bit and I haven't had my feet in a lake.

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