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Old 04-01-2013, 06:35 AM   #91
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I was looking at your new Brake set-up. Was wondering what you think of it?

Matt
Haven't gotten to test it yet, but hoping to this weekend.

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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:39 AM   #92
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Ran into an unforeseen roadblock in the build (and I'm dumb for not thinking of it). My rear driveshaft, I knew from the beginning, had to be replaced. The stock shaft is something like 13.25"from joint to joint. My new shaft is 24.5" from joint to joint.

What I didn't think I'd have to replace is the front shaft. Even with the big lift, I assumed that the distance between would be close enough that I could make it up int he slip. The front shaft is 38.5" from joint to joint. the new front shaft needs to be 44.5"!!!

So, this pushes the project back another few weeks. The rear shaft is already ordered and on it's way, so I'm gonna call the supplier today for a matching front shaft. Also, because of my new belly up skid, I didn't realize how much of an angle difference I'd have. I had already planning on the CV for the back (correcting the angle to a more manageable 28 degrees after the CV) but now the front raked up to around 21 degrees after the CV. Hoping that will work!

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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:11 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denisbaldwin View Post
Ran into an unforeseen roadblock in the build (and I'm dumb for not thinking of it). My rear driveshaft, I knew from the beginning, had to be replaced. The stock shaft is something like 13.25"from joint to joint. My new shaft is 24.5" from joint to joint.

What I didn't think I'd have to replace is the front shaft. Even with the big lift, I assumed that the distance between would be close enough that I could make it up int he slip. The front shaft is 38.5" from joint to joint. the new front shaft needs to be 44.5"!!!

So, this pushes the project back another few weeks. The rear shaft is already ordered and on it's way, so I'm gonna call the supplier today for a matching front shaft. Also, because of my new belly up skid, I didn't realize how much of an angle difference I'd have. I had already planning on the CV for the back (correcting the angle to a more manageable 28 degrees after the CV) but now the front raked up to around 21 degrees after the CV. Hoping that will work!
If you have a driveline shop in your area just take it to them. Have it lengthened. That is what I always do, costs me less then half as much to fix bent/ broken drive shafts, or have them lengthened.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #94
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I called a few of them locally. they actually wanted as much to fix/lengthen my old non-cv shafts as what I was able to get two new cv shafts made to spec. The new ones come balanced too, and with new spicer joints.
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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #95
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That sucks. I know I am lucky though. 30 min from me is a place that will charge me about $100 for labor plus parts cost. They use all Spicer parts and work with me to do it with as few parts as needed. Last time I had my front shaft lengthened it cost me $125.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:32 AM   #96
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That is a good deal. The few places I talked to around here wanted $200+ for it. For $224, I got a brand new shaft, new u-joints, 7" slip spline and a CV joint and it's 2" .120DOM tubing.
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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:41 AM   #97
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Who did you get your shaft through? I have been thinking about my front shaft as well but hoping it will be long enough. I have a friend who just got done with a very similar TT build and his worked. How much lift did you end up with from you SOA? That is a ton of difference in DS length lol.

As far as your front pinion, with it turned up that much doesn't that end up affecting caster on the front axle? I once read on pirate to leave the axle pinion down but I forget how they said to deal with the angle then. Let me see if I can find the thread.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:57 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Who did you get your shaft through
I went through this guy on eBay:
New Jeep 1310 CV Driveshaft Cardone CJ TJ YJ XJ SYE Cherokee Wrangler Driveline | eBay

I made an offer of $200, he countered with an offer of $225. I went with the $225.

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I have been thinking about my front shaft as well but hoping it will be long enough. I have a friend who just got done with a very similar TT build and his worked. How much lift did you end up with from you SOA? That is a ton of difference in DS length lol.
I already had a 3" body lift, so I swapped out my lift shackles for stock-size shackles and used the Rubicon Express SOA and lift springs. Total suspension lift is about 7" and total lift is about 10".

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As far as your front pinion, with it turned up that much doesn't that end up affecting caster on the front axle? I once read on pirate to leave the axle pinion down but I forget how they said to deal with the angle then. Let me see if I can find the thread.
Link me to that thread if you can. I was going to leave the CV at the top coming out of the t-case and let it drop straight down. I might have to trim my skin plate though, the way it looks :\

Denis
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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:20 PM   #99
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I reread it an basically it should be okay to leave your pinion down in the front axle, I don't know if you planned or purposely turned it up. But if it turned up too high from stock from all the lift etc the caster might be something you want to look into now. Just good front pinion angle on pirate and read some threads.

That would suck trimming your skid. I'm hoping to score a hp30 to help with that issue for my build.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:30 PM   #100
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Yeah you do not tilt your front pinion unless you know exactly what you ar doing. Your steering can go south realy fast. Since your front driveshaft should not be a CV shaft you dont need to adjust it anyway. The front TC Yoke and the D30 Yoke should be mirror images of each other.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:42 PM   #101
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I left my D30 exactly as it was from the factory, tilt-wise. The only changes there were to the internals and to moving the perches to the top (SOA). Otherwise, same angle. That's why I'm going to fix the issue with CV shaft and, if I absolutely have to, trimming my skid plate. I'm hoping I don't have to, but you never know. Under full droop, this could be a problem.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:49 PM   #102
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I thought when you said you raked the front angle up to 21 after the CV, you were talking about adjusting your pinion. I got ya now

Is the front stock YJ shaft not a CV shaft?
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:58 PM   #103
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I thought when you said you raked the front angle up to 21 after the CV, you were talking about adjusting your pinion. I got ya now

Is the front stock YJ shaft not a CV shaft?
Yep, was talking about the angle of the driveshaft, not the pinion. I see how that would be confusing.

The front shaft, at least on mine, was not a CV shaft. It was straight u-joints on both ends. That's not a big deal when it's not lifted (as the angle is low and the shaft is long) and it's not a huge deal unless you have as much lift as I do.

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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:09 PM   #104
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Because the front driveshaft is so long it is no big deal at all and does not require a CV shaft. As long as your angles are stock on both end you wont have any problems. I am +7" of lift and have no problems with my front angle. I think you already know that the moderate strain minimal vibe illustration pic is what to shoot for in the front. When I welded my perches for SOA I actually did the exact opposite of the stock perches for SUA to keep the stock pinion angle.
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:12 PM   #105
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Yeah I was just making sure, I wanted to make sure you didn't do that not thinking. The TJ has a stock front CV shaft and I didn't know that the YJ's didn't have them. Interesting.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:28 PM   #106
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More photos with the front and rear now bolted in.

The rear:



Height to the hub at 18", so this is what it will look like with the 36 inch tires on it.





Love how bright the mounts and axles came out with that ceramic coat paint:



The front went in, but I had to grind off the old mounts as they were in the way.




You can see by the "Fun Pile" that this was hell. Took me all day with 2 grinders, a dozen cut off wheels, 2 grinder wheels, a port-a-band and a BFH. What a pain in the butt.

Looks like you left the factory shock mounts in place on the Dana30? How did you , or did you measure for the correct shocks?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #107
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. Did you use rattlecan or brush on paint? And what kind of primer did you use?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #108
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. Did you use rattlecan or brush on paint? And what kind of primer did you use?
Dupli-color ceramic rattlecan.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:42 PM   #109
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What about primer?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #110
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What about primer?
Dupli-Color :: Sandable Primer

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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:56 PM   #111
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I called a few of them locally. they actually wanted as much to fix/lengthen my old non-cv shafts as what I was able to get two new cv shafts made to spec. The new ones come balanced too, and with new spicer joints.
This is also my experience in Austin...I was quoted $350 minimum to rebuild and balance a front driveshaft that I could buy for $200 new from Tom Woods.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #112
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This is also my experience in Austin...I was quoted $350 minimum to rebuild and balance a front driveshaft that I could buy for $200 new from Tom Woods.
X's 3 in Philly

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