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Old 08-25-2013, 01:47 PM   #1
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need help on different 92 to 95 dana 35 yoke

Wow I just finished changing the rear axle on my 92 YJ . It all went well until I tried to hook up the drive shaft. The yoke is on me. It seems that a 1995 Dana 35 has a different yoke then the 92. Universal joint has way too much play. Does anyone know a simple fix for this? Do they make a special universal joint? Please tell me I don't have to remove the yolk from the wrecked differential.

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Old 08-25-2013, 01:51 PM   #2
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You must have a rear with a 1330 yoke. You need a 1310 yoke. It can be ordered online. I have an extra yoke...but it is a 1330. What year did the axle come from? 94-95 have 1330 unlined. You could also buy a 1330-1310 conversion ujoint...but I would just change the yoke. I have a stock rear driveshaft that has a 1330 joint and the correct slip yoke for the tcase. I don't need it.

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Old 08-25-2013, 01:52 PM   #3
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95 has a 1330 on the axle side. Your 92 is probably 1310. You need a different u joint or a 95 ds.
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:52 PM   #4
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Oops. I reread ur post. 95 has the 1330 yoke.
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:06 PM   #5
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If I remove the yoke will I lose the location of the pinion?
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #6
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Yes, you cannot just remove the yoke.

You can use the marke the nut method on the yoke nut to reset pinion bearing preload or....

With the aid of an inch pound rotational torqure wrench you can take a rotational torque measurement and return the pinion youke nut to the correct torque to get the rotational torque measurement.

Either way if not done correctly can smoke your pinion bearings causing catastrofic failure.

Easier to just get the correct u joint. 1330 is way better anyway.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:02 PM   #7
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You can also replace the rear U-joint with a combo 1310/1330 u-joint That is what I had to do and it works perfect.Can be purchased thru Summit racing or any one who sells Moog parts #353. And it only cost me about $16.00
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:53 PM   #8
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Thanks for the great info. Ordered the conversion u joint. I'll pick up and install tomorrow.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mowrangler View Post
You can also replace the rear U-joint with a combo 1310/1330 u-joint That is what I had to do and it works perfect.Can be purchased thru Summit racing or any one who sells Moog parts #353. And it only cost me about $16.00
That would have been my suggestion as well. My jeep has one I got it at NAPA, have the part number wrote down but not where I can get to it at the moment
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:30 PM   #10
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Bastard joints are expensive for good ones and weak. I'd change the shaft to a 1330 one
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Bastard joints are expensive for good ones and weak. I'd change the shaft to a 1330 one
What is wrong with Moog U-joints?
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:50 AM   #12
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IMO the quality isn't there. I use nothing but spicer.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:52 PM   #13
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Ordered yesterday from O'Reilly and picked up today "federal-mogul, Precision, Super Strength, Heavy Duty, High Performance, part no 275, with a lifetime guarantee for about 27 bucks. I would put it in the Jeep, but its raining. I have just one last question. One of the bearing Cups has a hole. I'm sure this is a hole for Grease, however, isn't water going to get into the bearing cup.? Does a zerk fitting screw into this thing.?
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:07 PM   #14
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Ordered yesterday from O'Reilly and picked up today "federal-mogul, Precision, Super Strength, Heavy Duty, High Performance, part no 275, with a lifetime guarantee for about 27 bucks. I would put it in the Jeep, but its raining. I have just one last question. One of the bearing Cups has a hole. I'm sure this is a hole for Grease, however, isn't water going to get into the bearing cup.? Does a zerk fitting screw into this thing.?
There should be a zerk fitting included in the package with the clips.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:35 PM   #15
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Mowrangler you are absolutely correct. The fitting was in the package of retaining clips. Thank you.

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