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Old 03-19-2011, 07:47 PM   #1
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Unhappy New clutch engaging at floorboard

Hey guys-wow! I just replaced my clutch including the slave cylinder (not sure about the master cylinder-do they replace that with a brand new clutch?). It was shifting so beautifully for a month and yesterday, I noticed the clutch started engaging (or disengaging-that confuses me) closer and closer to the floorboard and now my reverse gear is grinding when I shift into reverse. The pedal engages real low when it engaged before about halfway.This was my problem before I got my clutch replaced. Any ideas? My reservoir is full and there is no obvious leaking inside the jeep or out. I was happy but now I am sssssooo bummed out.

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Old 03-19-2011, 09:30 PM   #2
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If its not leaking, you may have just gotten an air bubble. Pressure bleeding is one of the best ways to take care of your problem and it will also let you know if you have a leak

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Old 03-19-2011, 09:31 PM   #3
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I like that! That's probably a mechanics deal isn't it?
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:32 PM   #4
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Could it be leaking internally and I wouldn't be able to see it?
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:33 PM   #5
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No it can't be leaking at all right? The reservoir is full and always has been. CONFUSED!
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:51 PM   #6
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If the internal slave were leaking, you would see the fluid coming out at the bottom of the bell housing... Sounds like air is in the system to me.
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:57 PM   #7
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If the internal slave was leaking, would the reservoir still be full like it is? It is possible that air is in the system? They just replaced the entire clutch 4 weeks ago and the slave was replaced a year ago. Can air get in the system whenever it wants?
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:58 PM   #8
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Thanks mellowyellow by the way!
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:59 PM   #9
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Thumbs up

Thanks Beast!
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:17 PM   #10
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in your 92 the slave cylinder is inside the bellhousing of the transmission so its harder to see for yourself.
To help you better understand the clutch and pedal:
When you depress the clutch (push it down) you are disengaging the pressure on the clutch by the pressure plate.
The crank shaft of your motor is connected to the flywheel, a pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel which will push the clutch into the flywheel when the clutch pedal is not depressed. Essentially it is an "on/off" pedal for your drive-line.

Dont mean to sound condescending if you already know all that. I am a clutch connoisseur when my damn SVT focus clutch needed to be replaced 4 damn times
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:19 PM   #11
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If air is in the system, the shop did not fully bleed the system. I would take it back to the shop that did it.
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Old 03-20-2011, 04:59 AM   #12
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Hey mellowyellow thanks! I will let you know what happens. Is there a main reason for continual air in the lines? Because that is what this seems like, it was like this before I had the entire clutch replaced. Now I think I didn't need a new clutch at all. When they replaced it, they said the flywheel was ok and the pressure plate had a "little wear" on it. They thought the flywheel needed replacing at first because of stuttering in first and reverse gears.
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:43 AM   #13
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You could have a bad master cylinder and the seal on the master cylinder piston could be bad to where it leaks as you push it. If it was leaking you would start to see leakage behind the dust boot eventually in the cabin. Sooner or later it eats through the dust boot and the mixture of the rubber and the brake fluid will create a nice oily looking mess.

You can get a new master for 18-60 bucks, unless you buy it through a repair shop, then it is closer to 100 without labor.

I would have them bleed it first.

BTW what color is your fluid. Good looks like Karo corn syrup. White and/or foamy is air in the lines or in the fluid they used when they installed it. Black is old and just need to be replaced. If it is black, they didn't bleed it in the first place.

And when you say full you mean to the max line right? not all the way to the top? If it is filled to the top, they have no clue what they are doing.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:09 AM   #14
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the master is on the inside of the bell housing on a 92?
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:12 AM   #15
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No, that is the slave cylinder, the master is on the firewall, beside/ behind the brake booster on the driver's side.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:00 PM   #16
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The clutch master cylinder is that thing that is "conveniently" located under the radiator support bar.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowYellow89YJ View Post
No, that is the slave cylinder, the master is on the firewall, beside/ behind the brake booster on the driver's side.

ah misread, I was going to say damnit I have to replace my master soon.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #18
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Yes undead-the fluid is a nice karo and full. There is no oily mess in the cabin or around the master cylinder! I did notice in the cabin that the boot has become unattached from the pedal bar where it goes through the firewall, but that didn't seem like a big deal. The lines have been bled before, eventually the clutch always goes back to disengaging right at the floor board. I thought I had this fixed with the brand new clutch. Maybe it is the bad master cylinder huh? I just drove it to the shop and left a note for them. When they drive it into the bay, they'll know what's wrong I am hoping. They should know what they did or didn't do I'm thinking.
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Undead-89 View Post
The clutch master cylinder is that thing that is "conveniently" located under the radiator support bar.
Yeah, great idea from the designers... You can't even add fluid without removing the radiator support.
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:38 AM   #20
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I got it back from my guys at 4Wheelparts. They rebled the line and in 10 miles the clutch was back to disengaging on the floor and the gears were barely going in. He knew that would happen and said he found no leaks anywhere and is recommending a master cylinder replace. The thing is getting air. There HAS to be a leak right? How much for a master replace and can anyone do it?
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:50 AM   #21
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I got mine with a lifetime warranty around 20 bucks and had it in in like 15 minutes. took longer to bleed it.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:58 AM   #22
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A new clutch master cylinder will run you about $80-90.... Very easy to install yourself. The install goes as such: remove the radiator support rod, disconnect the connector on the clutch pedal, disconnect the hose feeding from the master cylinder (you will loose fluid, so be ready), remove the two nuts on the master cylinder flange, and the master will pull out... Installation is the opposite, you will have to bleed the system afterwords.
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:00 PM   #23
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I got mine with a lifetime warranty around 20 bucks and had it in in like 15 minutes. took longer to bleed it.

20 bucks... Where? Even ebay is $60 new
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:57 AM   #24
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I got mine at Checker last year. This year at O'reillys it has them listed as 24.99. This is for the BA or AX 15 trans. The 92 4.0 at O'reillys is around 35-40 bucks.


They also sell a kit to replace the internal components for like 9 bucks.
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:58 AM   #25
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Does anybody think a clutch adjustment might be the answer to my clutch that disengages just about on the floor for difficult shifting and has a perfectly good master cylinder and brand new clutch package including the slave cylinder? What else could it be? There is no leaking or loss of fluid, the reservoir has always been full.
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:36 AM   #26
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Can't adjust the clutch. You have air in the line still, I fought this problem for two weeks before I broke down and bought a pressure bleeder. Here is the kit from the website. Ebay has it a little cheaper.

European Bleeder 0100 -- Motive Products Online Store
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:39 AM   #27
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Rats beast.I just had it re bled and 10 miles later it's doing it again. Does this mean I have to pressure bleed constantly? Could it still be a master cylinder problem even though it doesn't seem to be leaking? Does this so called pressure bleeder do a better job that a normal bleeding?
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:25 AM   #28
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I would bet that its not getting bled well enough. If you don't have any evidence of a leak and both the master and slave have been replaced, I would guess you just have air bubble that the shop isn't getting. I bled my jeep several times (manually with no success) and I finally gave in and tried that bleeder. I had a full pedal and it felt great. I haven't had to do anything to it since. Too bad your not closer because I would just let you use mine.
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #29
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Rats beast.I just had it re bled and 10 miles later it's doing it again. Does this mean I have to pressure bleed constantly? Could it still be a master cylinder problem even though it doesn't seem to be leaking? Does this so called pressure bleeder do a better job that a normal bleeding?
It wouldn't surprise me if they replaced the slave when they did the clutch because of its location, (without replacing the master cylinder). Yes, the master cylinder can be bad without leaking and it sounds like that is where your problem lies. There simply isn't any other area to address if, indeed, the clutch was replaced, the slave was replaced and the system was bled properly and no leaks are present. Master cylinder replacement is very easy and it is very accessible and really should be done if the slave is replaced.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:24 PM   #30
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It wouldn't surprise me if they replaced the slave when they did the clutch because of its location, (without replacing the master cylinder). Yes, the master cylinder can be bad without leaking and it sounds like that is where your problem lies. There simply isn't any other area to address if, indeed, the clutch was replaced, the slave was replaced and the system was bled properly and no leaks are present. Master cylinder replacement is very easy and it is very accessible and really should be done if the slave is replaced.

I think he stated that both master and the slave have been replaced.

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