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Old 04-02-2012, 10:42 AM   #1
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new clutch old mechanic

Doing a new clutch on my 2.5 91 wrangler YJ. (Love it)
Just looking for any warning or pointers .done plenty of clutch work but on bigger chevys lol. My clutch is old and worn but still got like 2inches of pedal left maybe less.

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Old 04-02-2012, 03:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjcon10009 View Post
Doing a new clutch on my 2.5 91 wrangler YJ. (Love it)
Just looking for any warning or pointers .done plenty of clutch work but on bigger chevys lol. My clutch is old and worn but still got like 2inches of pedal left maybe less.

Attachment 110371
Your clutch is hydrolic, the amount of floor travel is irrelevant.

my 90 with 150K is still going strong, and im running 33's

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Old 04-02-2012, 05:03 PM   #3
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Depending on the miles, a resurface of the flywheel, new pilot bearing and new slave along with the clutch and pressure plate should do it...
Lock tite the flywheel bolts, have read where they have backed out on some..
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:25 PM   #4
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The guy who said its hydraulic and the pedal has no representation of whats left on the clutch has no clue what he is talking about. I just did my clutch and it now grabs 2 inches off the floor. So on that note the clutch on a jeep is almost like a break system and uses dot3 break fluid. The pedal DOES represent the amount of clutch left. Because b4 i had 1inch of clutch play left in the clutch pedal. So as it wears the pedal will be fearther from the floor then new
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:12 PM   #5
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The guy who said its hydraulic and the pedal has no representation of whats left on the clutch has no clue what he is talking about. I just did my clutch and it now grabs 2 inches off the floor. So on that note the clutch on a jeep is almost like a break system and uses dot3 break fluid. The pedal DOES represent the amount of clutch left. Because b4 i had 1inch of clutch play left in the clutch pedal. So as it wears the pedal will be fearther from the floor then new

I have no clue?

Im an ASE master re-certified tech, I know what im taking about, dont be a brainiac, you are wrong.

Just like in a brake system, the fluid in the brake resivoir displaces the fluid in the brake master as the brakes wear out, the same happens for the clutch.

This is why your brake reservoir level goes down as your brakes wear....
AND why your foot travel on your brake doesnt move as your brakes wear (the only exception is when the mechanical drum portion of the rear drum brakes wear, and gets adjusted to bring is back into tolerance).

FYI any time you upset the system, (you change the lining on the clutch disk, relpace a hydrolic component), something is going to change. you move the amount the slave has to move, it proportionately alters the rest and as it wears again the reservoir adds fluid to keep the pedal where it currently is.

Yes, your foot feels a difference because you changed the system, your reservoir and master will keep it there until your clutch wears out, or a component fails and needs to be replaced. Your reservoir will go down as a result of normal clutch disk wear (similar to front brake pad wear).

This is also why OPs clutch is old and worn, and yours is new and BOTH are 2" off the floor...



As far as the OPs issue, if your changing your clutch, the main issue with the Jeeps is making sure the hydraulics get completely bled, Air can be difficult to purge from these systems.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:23 AM   #6
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That's a great explanation of our clutches! Too bad it came in the form of a smackdown.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:46 PM   #7
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That's a great explanation of our clutches! Too bad it came in the form of a smackdown.
Yea, i had been drinking when i wrote that too, THANK GOD for spellchecker......
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Old Jeep that was totaled (and SOLD!):
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:20 PM   #8
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:30 PM   #9
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:35 PM   #10
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What does " hydrolic " mean?

And you being an Expert, what is the easiest way to bleed master cylinder ( clutch or brake) by yourself with no vacumn pumps, etc.

Just you, a wrench, bottle of dot brake fluid and a drain pan
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:09 PM   #11
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Open bleeder attach a fuel or vacuum line to bleeder submerge line in brake fluid pump slowly a dozen times top off resivior close bleeder top off again. Done
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:15 PM   #12
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In my experience, I've owned over a dozen Jeeps, the pedal will hit more towards the top as the clutch wears. The rez is very small on the jeep and in my opinion has never hydraulically compensated for wear. Motorcycles that I have owned did this as well. The cap is sealed unlike a brake system that can use the atmospheric pressure to let the fluid compensate for the wear.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep716 View Post
Open bleeder attach a fuel or vacuum line to bleeder submerge line in brake fluid pump slowly a dozen times top off resivior close bleeder top off again. Done

Ahh, but you must do it without a pump

Next one please
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:17 PM   #14
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It's much easier to get a buddy wife child etc to pump pedal and open and close bleeder Lol
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:18 PM   #15
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You use the pedal to move the fluid. No pump. Lol
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep716 View Post
Open bleeder attach a fuel or vacuum line to bleeder submerge line in brake fluid pump slowly a dozen times top off resivior close bleeder top off again. Done
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep716 View Post
It's much easier to get a buddy wife child etc to pump pedal and open and close bleeder Lol

Yes it is, but how do you do it easily BY YOURSELF !
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #17
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Also, I have 1966 c10 with a 396 and its brake master cylinder has a rubber gasket, so is not affected by atsmospheric pressure!
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:26 PM   #18
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Try this

Open bleeder. This means you!

Attach hose and submerge again you

Get in jeep and pump pedal 10x slowly this is you again.

Get out of you jeep close bleeder a beer is optional at this point.

Now ,this part is you again so follow directions! Top off the rez.

Have another beer lol and your done.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:28 PM   #19
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Just take it to Jeep Dealer if you can't figure it out and give them a couple hundred they'll do it for you and that only requires one person as well.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:30 PM   #20
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Look at the top of your cap in the 66 it is an accordion for lack of a better word. The rubber pushes down as the fluid sinks. Hence open system.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:34 PM   #21
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Ok

This is how ya do it

Yes its Old School
But so am I! Lol

Crack bleeder valve just enough for fluid ( and air) to drain while you top off master cylinder. This might take 10 minutes or so but who
cares!
Your by yourself on your driveway!

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:41 PM   #22
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The rubber is " acordian " so it can fill void when fluid level drops from either brake wear or leaks !

This iz Gospel !

Or me name iznt

Chuck Norton !

Hmmm

Wait

Me name isnt Chuck Norton!

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:47 PM   #23
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Just take it to Jeep Dealer if you can't figure it out and give them a couple hundred they'll do it for you and that only requires one person as well.

I been doing brakes and clutches by meself for over 30 years!

I have Never taken a car, truck, jeep, or motorcycle to a repair shop let alone a dealer!

And Never Will!

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:51 PM   #24
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Jeep 716

I wasnt asking how to do it, was asking if ya all knew how to do it!

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Old 04-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #25
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It's much easier to get a buddy wife child etc to pump pedal and open and close bleeder Lol
Wife keeps lifting the pedal, my 9 year old son works best...

I have a vacuum bleeder too, but mostly gravity and the boy is my best bet.
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'04 SV1000s:
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Old Jeep that was totaled (and SOLD!):
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:47 AM   #26
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Have you changed your clutch yet? Back on topic, I just changed mine for the same reason and when I pulled it out the old clutch was practically new! You probably dont' need one man! If it isn't slipping on you ride it until it does.

As for bleeding the slave, the new ones come without a bleed port because so many people were screwing them up trying to bleed them. If you buy a slave master combo it will come pre bled. I went to rock auto and got mine. If you do have one that can be bled it will have an allen screw installed in the hole on the slave. Bleed it just like you have bleed any thing your whole life. pump pump pump and hold.....bleed while holding then close.....pump pump pump....exc exc. IM me if you have any questions! Im not an expert but I did just do all of this last week.
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:10 AM   #27
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I know and have done a few dozen. I just do the Buddy Bleed it's a lot easier. I'm 42 and have been working on cars motorcycle's etc since I was 5. I run a small engine repair out of my home as a hobby. I work on a NASCAR modified and race Motocross so I've had more than my fair share of racing and wrenching.

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