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Old 01-20-2012, 02:01 PM   #1
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Nice YJ Info that i found while surfing...

Here are some Nice Yj facts that i found while surfing.. not sure how much is accurate but looks good

Standard acronyms used on the forum:
BL - Body Lift
CV Joint - Constant Velocity Joint (used with SYE)
I4 - Inline engine, 4 cylinder, 2.5L
I6 - Inline engine, 6 cylinder, 4.2L or 4.0L
MML - Motor Mount Lift
RTI - Ramp Travel Index
OBA - OnBoard Air - Air compressor mounted in vehicle.
SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator
SOA (SPOA) - Spring Over Axle
SRS - Shackle Reversal System
SUA (SPUA) - Spring Under Axle (stock configuration)
V6 - Engine from Ford, Dodge, AMC, Chevy - more power and normally used in a swap from the I4.
V8 - Engine from Ford, Dodge, AMC, Chevy - more power and normally used in a swap from the I6.

What size of tires fit without rubbing?
Older YJ (sagged springs on stock rims with lots of miles) - 235/75r15
Newer YJ (non-sagged springs on stock rims with few miles) - 30x9.5r15
Newer YJ (non-sagged springs on non-stock rims with few miles) - 31x10.5r15
2.5" lift on stock rims - 32x10.5r15
4" lift on stock rims - 33x12.5r15

Backspacing on the standard rim is 5.5".

Stock height of Jeep to rocker panels - 18"
Wheelbase length of the YJ - 93.5"
Wheelbase width of the YJ - 57"
Ground clearance - 9"
Towing capacity - 2,000lbs with proper hitch and connections (officially) - 3,000lbs with Class III hitch (not recommended, but, can be done at slow-speeds with trailer-brakes and load-levelling bars)

What kind of transmissions are in the YJ?
1987 - 1989
AX-5 - Aisin 5-speed behind the I4
BA-10/5 - Peugot 5-speed behind the I6
TF999 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I6

1989 - 1995
AX-5 - Aisin 5-speed behind the I4
AX-15 - Aisin5-speed behind the I6
TF904 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I4 (1994, 1995 only)
TF999 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I6

How do I know what engine I have in my Jeep?
If you lift the hood you will be able to count either 4 or 6 spark plugs.

Early (pre 1991) 4-cyl engines were fuel injected via throttle body - 2.5L
Second gen (post 1992) 4-cyl engines are fuel injected via MPI (Multi-Port Injection) - 2.5L
Early (pre 1991) 6-cyl engines were carb'd - 4.2L
Second gen (post 1991) 6-cyl engines are fuel injected via MPI (Multi-Port Injection) - 4.0L

What gears do I have in my Jeep?
I4 Automatic - 3.73:1
I4 Standard - 4.10:1
I6 Automatic - 3.54:1 (normally)
I6 Standard - 3.07:1, 3.54:1 or 3.73:1 - must verify with the tag on the axle or by pulling the differential cover and reading the numbers stamped in the ring gear or by counting revolutions of wheel versus driveshaft.



What fluids do I use and how much do I put in my Jeep?
*Axles:
- Gear oil - 80 weight for light duty and normally cooler climates - 90w120 weight for heavy duty and normally warmer climates Note: Some rear axles are equiped with factory posi - a limited slip additive must be put in with the gear oil to extend and protect the limited slip action
Dana 30 = 2.5 pints
Dana 35 = 3.5 pints
Dana 44 = 4.0 pints

*Engines:
- 10w30 for good general usage in most climates
- 5w30 for those colder climates (when temps are below freezing for extended periods of time)
2.5L = 4 quarts (w/ filter)
4.0L = 6 quarts (w/ filter)
4.2L = 6 quarts (w/ filter)

*Transmission (standard):
- 80 weight gear oil but most recoment Redline MT 90 to protect the interals better. 75W90 is listed by some but the 80W is just cheaper to find with no ill effects.
AX-5 = 3.3 quarts
AX-15 = 3.25 quarts
BA-10/5 = 2.45 quarts

*Transmission (automatic):
- Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Dexron III
TF 904 = 4 quarts- service
TF 999 = 4 quarts-service

*Transfer case:
- Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF+4
231 = 2.2 pints

What is the easiest way to gain room for larger tires? - Suspension lift. When the springs are sagged out from years of use or abuse, a 2" suspension lift gains more clearance (and flex) than a 2" body lift. The other easy way to gain room for larger tires is to install Bushwacker or TJ flares and trim the sheet-metal of the body to allow for more room.

Which is better, open diff, posi-diff, lock-diff or spool-diff in a set of stock axles? - The posi-diff situation is the easiest on the Jeep's axles with least chance of serious breakage. For more information regarding the different choices, try Randy's tech sheet. A locking diff is the strongest, and will carry you further down the road less travelled.

I want to put a winch on my Jeep, which one should I get? - The rule of thumb is that a winch must be rated at least 2-times the weight of the vehicle. For a stock YJ running no doors or top, no back seat and minimal tools/spares a 6000lb electric winch will do the job very nicely. Once you start adding in extra weight-inducing extras (hard-top, full hard-doors, tools, people, etc), an 8000lb electric winch gets the nod. If you are into hard-core mud or rocks, 9000lb winches and higher will become the recommended rated unit.

Can I swap my 4.2l engine for a 4.0l engine? - Yes you can. Its basically a bolt-together situation, but you will have to remember to remove all the wiring with the 4.2 and put in all the wiring for the 4.0 (all sensors, including O2 on the exhaust). While you are at it, install an electric fuel pump to provide the correct PSI and GPM for the 4.0. The guages on the dash should work properly once they are all hooked back up again.

How hard is it to swap in a V8? - The Chevy and Ford V8's are very easy to put in with lots of room under the hood. AMC/Dodge V8's can be mounted infront of the I6 transmissions with minor modifications to the bellhousing. Using the existing transmission may not be best, and is not recommended to use the I4 transmissions behind V8 power. V8wrangler_idaho (Ford) and NaeKid (Chevy) both have V8's in their Jeeps with several others in the process of changing or having completed. Standard tools with a welder, grinder and angle-finder are all you would normally need.

My carb'd Jeep keeps stalling when I hit the brakes - why!? - Welcome to the world of the early YJ. It is a well known problem and a complete PITA! To start, check all the vacuum lines around the carburetor. Any that are cracked or missing - replace. Once that is complete, if there is no change in the way the Jeep runs, try a simple repair as listed at JeepTech.com. If that doesn't work, then its time to visit a professional, or go the route of thousands of other Jeep owners and get rid of the Carter carb and replace it with a Weber carb .. you can find these carbs from E-bay (used) or new at many autoparts stores. For further information, you can also check this list of links directly related to the carburetor. If you want to know how they work, HowStuffWorks.com has the answers!

I just put on ??? size tires - what should I re-gear to? - If you know what gears you currently run and the size of tires you just removed, you can use an online calculator to figure out what gears you should use to put your engine back into its proper power-band with the new larger tires.

Another very nice calculator (thanks provinT13) - Gear Ratio Calculator

Normal available gear ratios for YJ axles are:
# 3.07:1
# 3.54:1
# 3.73:1
# 4.10:1
@ 4.56:1
@ 4.88:1
@ 5.13:1

# = Stock available gears
@ = Aftermarket supplier like Randy's Ring and Pinion

I want to run 35" or larger tires, what should I do to reduce breakage? - The front Dana 30 axle is fairly strong, and can handle upto 37" tires if you aren't too hard on the gas-peddle. The rear Dana 35 is not as strong, and its maximum recommended tire-size is 33". To strengthen the rear axle, Superior Gear has the Super 35 kit to increase the strength of the stock rear axle, combine that with a truss and you will have less chance of breakage. Replacing the rear axle with a Ford 8.8" (out of a 1995 or newer Explorer), or a Dana 44 (Metric-tonne Commanche (MJ), Towing-package Cherokee (XJ)) are a direct bolt-in once the spring perches are welded into place. Also, some of the newer Toyota axles also have the same wheel-bolt-pattern as a stock YJ, and their width is just about perfect as well.

What is the best way to gain more flex from my Jeep? - Removing both the front and rear track-bars (bar from frame to axle, one mounting point on each side) will gain you alot of flex right from the start. Most are happy removing the rear track-bar and suffer no ill-effects. Removing (or temporairilly disabling) the sway bars on the front of the Jeep will be the icing on the cake for flex. Some find the ride horrible on the street with lots of body-lean in the corners. Others are happy without track-bars or swaybars. Try removing one at a time (starting with the rear track-bar) till you find the ride the easiest for your driving style without making you feel un-safe in corners.

Why does everyone hate body lifts? - Its not that we hate body lifts on our Jeeps, its that most find their looks as being ugly, and the higher body lifts can become dangerous - especially in accident situations. Many instances the body lift has busted through the body and caused the body to sag at one or more places - even to the point of the body lift pucks breaking through at all mounting points and the body coming to rest on the frame again.

Can I put a CJ-7 hardtop on my YJ? - Yes you can. There are a few things you must do in order to make it function properly with your tail-gate, but it will fit in place without any major issues. Look towards opening your rear-window before opening the tail-gate. You can also attempt to swap a YJ-style rear window onto the CJ's top.

I want different rims. What will fit? - Within the Jeep line of vehicles, you can use rims from any YJ, XJ, MJ, ZJ or KJ. In the Dodge/Chrysler/AMC world, Dakota (1987 - 1990), Ram (1949 - 1979) and RamCharger (1975-1985) and AMC Eagle may fit (there were rare options with different bolt-patterns). Outside of the world of Jeep, you can get Ford Explorer, BroncoII and Ranger rims, Toyota pickup rims (certain newer models only). Of course, the Mazada B4000 rims will fit (It is a Ford - or is it vice-versa). Pontiac 6000 cars also use the same bolt-pattern, but their rims are 14" in diameter - so its not a perfect match.

Other possibilities include:
many older ford full-size cars
many older dodge/plymouth/chrysler full-size cars

You can also purchase brand-new aftermarket rims. All you need to specify is the bolt-pattern of 5-bolts on 4.5" diameter if you are running the stock axles. Stock backspacing is 5 1/2" - anything less than that will "push" your wheels outwards for a wider stance.

Why do I have water pouring inside my Jeep when it rains? - That is a fairly common occurance. The grill on the top of your engine area (just in front of the windshield) allows fresh air into the Jeep for the heater. It also allows water and snow to collect. There is a drain-hose on the firewall about 1.75" in diameter that can get plugged. Pull off the hose, and tip it upside down. Wash it out with the garden hose in the backyard and then wash the grill-area down as well pouring as much water down as possible to wash all the trapped dirt out. Place the hose back in place and enjoy dry feet again.

You can also add a scoop to the grill area to limit the amount of water/dirt entering the fresh-air intake.

What is the best way to clean my soft-top? - You can use a baking-soda/water mix to clean the canvas tops and doors. Using a soft bristle brush, work the paste into the top. Once completed, rinse with clean water. If that doesn't remove all the stains, visit one of your local boat-supply stores and ask them for some canvas cleaner (many boats use a canvas cover). While a little more pricey than the baking-soda, it might just do a good job for you.

What should I look out for when purchasing a used YJ? - Depending on what you are looking for, any of the YJ's are great projects, wheelers, daily drivers, etc.


1987 - 1988 - Major Project Jeep
V8 swap with swapped in transmission and transfer case
SOA, trimmed body panels, exo-cage
Look for rusting in the floor near the roll-cage mounts
1989 - 1991 - Minor Project Jeep / wheeler
Lift kits/bigger tires
V8 swap for I4 (also change transmission and transfercase)
Look for rusting in the floor near the roll-cage mounts
1992 - 1995 - Daily driver / Minor Project Jeep / Wheeler
Lift kits/bigger tires
V8 swap for I4 (also change transmission and transfercase)
As with any vehicle, make sure that you know what you are getting. Check fluids, check bushings, check for rusting, check for accident damage, check for 4-wheel-drive (not just the light on the dash, but that is a good indicator) by "twisting" the suspension till you have one front and one rear tire spinning in the air, check for the doors closing properly (again, accident damage), check over any mods that may have been done (you don't want farmer mods on it - clean bolt-on's are great, or properly welded ones) .. and always get a saftey inspection done.

How much is this Jeep worth - or - how much is my Jeep worth? - Modifications to the Jeep do not increase or decrease the overall value of the Jeep. In general visiting Kelly Blue Book will give you a good starting point for buying or selling a Jeep.

How do I know if my VIN is correct or where was my Jeep built? - If you visit the VIN decoder, it will tell you where, when and what major options were built into your Jeep

I love the look of the TJ bumpers. How hard is it to put them on? - The rear bumper will bolt right into place without any problems, that is, as long as your rear cross-member isn't damaged. The front bumper can be put on as well, but, it is recommended that you use a die-grinder to open up the holes a bit to match up with your factory bolt-holes on the front of the frame-horns.

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1993 YJ-3.9 v6 E.F.I(dakota)-cj dash-33x10.50 mud terrians-4" lift-soon to be painted with Monstaliner
http://s160.photobucket.com/user/raf...brary/jeep%202
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:33 PM   #2
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One thing I noticed while reading is the gears, the 30 and 35 will only go up to 4:88 because of the size of the ring gear, otherwise good info.

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Old 01-21-2012, 01:50 AM   #3
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This should be stickied. There is a lot of info in there a newbie like myself needs to know.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:21 AM   #4
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Pretty cool stuff.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:28 PM   #5
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I'm almost positive all this info is in the FAQ at the top of the page.
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:12 PM   #6
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im new to the wrangler area first time owning one just pick up a 87 wrangler 2.5 five speed eight in lift on 35 in boggers and my problem is when i get in it to turn the key to start it the rpms go from o to 3000 then slow climbs down to a thousand and it idles there and i was driveing it last night and when i was driveing it stalled on me like foot was in the gas and was not moveing then i pull over down shift to second gear was just stalling still then died and now it wont turn over what do u guys think it could be want to keep it cause i pick it up for 900 bucks and hope its a cheap easy fix
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:24 PM   #7
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In what year did the YJ I4 switch from carb'd to FI?

Thanks.

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Old 02-19-2012, 07:08 PM   #8
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I believe the 87-92 model YJ's were all Throttle body fuel injected then in 93 they switched to multi port fuel injection.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I believe the 87-92 model YJ's were all Throttle body fuel injected then in 93 they switched to multi port fuel injection.
Nope carbs on early YJ's
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:23 PM   #10
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My 91 is multi port FI.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:15 PM   #11
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My 90 is throttle body injected, I'm planning on swapping to multi port soon.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #12
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my 89 is carb'd
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:17 PM   #13
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isnt the rear bumper welded on,on the yj..and the front bumper..

you said it should just bolt on.., mine(92) is in the shop now and want a different rear and thought they were weld on..

i love this thread and very thankful for your time in posting..
..bap
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:12 PM   #14
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1987-1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ engine options:

2.5L: Throttle Body Injection.

4.2L: Carbureted.

1991-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ engine options:

2.5L: Multi Port Fuel Injection.

4.0L: Multi Port Fuel Injection

GEARING:

2.5L-

Manual: 4.10

Automatic: 3.73

4.2L:

Manual- 3.54

Automatic- 3.07

4.0L:

Manual- 3.73

Automatic- 3.55

Pretty sure the bumpers are bolted in place.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:21 AM   #15
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thanks, but for me what the shop mine is in said that my rear was welded and they had to cut it off to fix my frame(i didnt get to see it because of work) and had it welded back on before i got a chance to see it.--so mine is welded on now for sure..
i asked if they could weld plates and drill holes so i could put another bumper on latter..
i do know the bumperets are bolted on though..
thanks again
bap
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:00 PM   #16
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the bumperettes are the rear bumper, the thing that is welded on is your rear crossmember
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
1987-1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ engine options:

2.5L: Throttle Body Injection.

4.2L: Carbureted.

1991-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ engine options:

2.5L: Multi Port Fuel Injection.

4.0L: Multi Port Fuel Injection

GEARING:

2.5L-

Manual: 4.10

Automatic: 3.73

4.2L:

Manual- 3.54

Automatic- 3.07

4.0L:

Manual- 3.73 <<<<<<

Automatic- 3.55

Pretty sure the bumpers are bolted in place.
The one I put the <<<< beside is wrong. That's 3.07 gears a vast majority of the time.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:45 PM   #18
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Manuals came with 3.73 gears because of the way the transmission works. The automatics came with a taller gear pattern because they often had less gears to work with.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:56 PM   #19
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Ive yet to see a factory 3.73 axle in 55 YJ's now
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:08 PM   #20
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I wish I would have seen this post 6 months ago when I was asking dumb questions.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:38 AM   #21
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im glad i asked my dumb question now---lol

after i posted about my rear bumper being welded on i started wondering if the bumperets were the bumper---thanks for letting me know-
---duhhh--
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:20 PM   #22
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There is no such thing as a dumb question. The only dumb question is the one that is never asked :thumbsup:

Now answers on the other hand...
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:52 PM   #23
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There is no such thing as a dumb question. The only dumb question is the one that is never asked :thumbsup:
I agree.

But I prefer; "There's no such thing as a stupid question. Only stupid people asking questions."

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Old 03-04-2012, 01:23 AM   #24
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You just answered every newbie question Iv been looking for your awesome! now one question that I didn't see but iv read previously on the forum after putting on a 6000lbs winch would I need to put spacers in the front for the added weight on a yj? I saw someone said it was recommend on a tj?I believe is where I read it..
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:59 AM   #25
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Hello there! I just bough a 88 4.2 YJ I'm Thinking to change all the fluids and the only thing i Don't understand is where are the specs its says axle Dana 30,35,44 Which one is mine?
And how can i find out which gearbox is mine? I don't have owners manual nothing.... Please help I'm a newbie!!!
And does any one know what time of antifreeze i should use? and how much?
And Brakes is it just normal Dot4?
Thanks
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:46 PM   #26
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-Brake fluid I think is DOT 3, at least that's what I use.

-Coolant is GREEN, you can use either 50/50 or concentrate. If you go with concentrate it is always recommended to fill the entire radiator with concentrate (this means drain and flush)- no mixing of water.

-YJ's came with a few assortment of transmissions:

2.5L (all years): AX5
4.2: Peugeot BA10 (some models came with the AX15)
4.0: AX15

-YJ's almost always (aside from some Canadian models) came with a Dana 30 up front and a Dana 35 in the rear. Photo reference:


Dana 30 (front)


Dana 35 (rear)

As for fluids, I've been using 75W-90 inside of the differentials.
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:05 AM   #27
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antifreeze is always deluted to 50/50. if you use the concentrate you must add water.
be sure to use purified water.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:00 AM   #28
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antifreeze is always deluted to 50/50. if you use the concentrate you must add water.
be sure to use purified water.
correct......straight antifreeze (the green) WILL freeze if it's not diluted with water.....
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:03 AM   #29
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1989 - 1995
AX-5 - Aisin 5-speed behind the I4
AX-15 - Aisin5-speed behind the I6
TF904 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I4 (1994, 1995 only)
TF999 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I6


The factory build sheet on my 91 YJ Renegade lists the transmission as a 32RH TorqueFlight 3 Speed Automatic
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:28 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by olbaid_83 View Post
my 89 is carb'd
If you have an '89 YJ that is a 2.5 I4, and it has a carburetor, I would like to see a pic of it. '87 was the 1st year for the Wrangler, and the engine options were 4.2L I6 carbed, and 2.5L I4 with throttle body injection. That was the norms until 90 when they went to the 4.0L I6 and the 2.5L I4 both with multi-port fuel injection.

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