When I start it and it is cold, everything shifts fine. After 15-20 minutes or so, when I am at a stop light and rest in neutral......the light turns green......then when I try to put into 1st, it will not go into gear. If I try reverse real quick, then back to first, it will go. OR if I am rolling at all, it will also go into 1st.
After that, shifting into 2nd and all, it shifts fine. No grinds, etc....
Mine did the same thing and my friends told me it was normal lol. I replaced the clutch and master/slave and now it will go into first and out and back in at a stop no problem. Cant really say which one fixed the issue. I had to be rolling to go in first now it doesn't want to go in first unless im stopped or barely creeping. Which is what I feel as normal.
My AX5 didnt like to go in reverse either. It would grind no matter what now it does not. Sometimes it doesn't want to go in reverse still but it makes sense cause their is no synchro. Just rev it a little or roll back/forward a little. Filled it up with syn 10w30 .
So basically either my slave didnt have enough push on the pressure plate or my plate was too weak to fully disengage the clutch disk. So in turn the trans shaft was still rotating slightly. If I started jeep in first foot on clutch no brake it would creep forward for a sec or two.
My guess is your slave cylinder is shot. The 93 has an external slave correct? If it does I would change it with a master/slave pre bled system. 4 bolts and a cotter pin and your done. I used to have a similar issue. It wouldn't leak on the ground, my clutch fluid level was fine, but it wouldn't hold pressure.
I'm pretty sure 94 is the switch year. Should be middle ish drivers side
Also I don't know about the ax5...but do NOT run 10w30 in the ax15. I don't really feel like getting into it if you google it plenty of info will come up on it
You all can run your motor oil. I'll run my gl3 (or equivalent) because that's what it was designed to run. And even if it is the same thing there's no doubt in my mind it's shifts better with the redline. Maybe it's just a mental thing. Who knows. Either way my motor oil is staying in my motor.
Zack I would prefer to have redline in my transmission as well like I said its a better choice. When I changed my fluid I had just purchased the jeep and had to change the clutch and several other components and money was tight. I figured if its recommended by the manufacturer and I can fill my trans and top off my engine for 25 bucks then what the hell. Shifts like butter
10 bucks more and you could have had it lol. It's nothing personal man. I just don't know enough about transmissions and all stuff that harms the insides. I'm tight on cash being in school and mommy and daddy don't paying for anything haha so for me it was an easy decision for me because I didn't want to mess up anything in a long run. Like I said it's nothing person lol I'm just saying.
You mean per quart? Because I couldn't find the redline anywhere and online they want 15 a quart vs less then 4 per quart of the syn 10w30. After having to fill it up twice in the same month for trouble shooting and a clutch job things start to add up. I run a gas station and mommy and daddy need help from me more then I do them. So I know about money being tight. I just dont want to mislead people into thinking its not okay to run 10w30. That is all. No offense taken and not trying to offend either. Sorry OP
Understandable.
I think you can still get it on amazon for like 12 bucks a quart. That's where I got it the first time for my MJ. I found mine locally at a performance shop for 35 bucks for all four quarts when I put it in my YJ.
Thanks for all the reply's. I will change the slave cylinder sine it is outside the tranny and probably easy to do. If not, off to get anew clutch. Either way, I will let you know what fixes it......
Just a heads up, my brother's Ford Ranger had a similar problem - shifted fine when cold, but once the tranny warmed up it would not go from neutral into first while the engine was running, unless the truck was rolling.
Ended up being a bad clutch plate assembly. When it heated up it wouldn't disengage from the flywheel.
My dads old 95 Dekota 2.5 AX5 would not shift with 75w90 Gear oil, and would grind with Syn. 10W40 HD, but worked fine with 10W30 motor oil, how can we know when there all picky.
Took it in today rather than trying a bunch of different things. Ended up being the clutch pressure plate. Getting a new clutch kit with new slave and clutch master cylinder installed for $800.
Thanks for the feedback.
Nice.. youll be happy with the fresh clutch. But ouch 800 bucks:/
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