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Old 02-17-2011, 02:53 AM   #1
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PIC Request: 6-7" sua w/35's

Looking to do a lift this summer. I am planning on doing the 4" rough country lift with 1.25" body lift and 1.25 boomerang shackle lift for a total of 6.5" of lift. If anyone is running 35's with a lift close to this please post some pics.

I understand about the d35 being week. I am looking into a rear end swap.

Please limit the posts to YJ's the TJ's sit different and look good with different lifts.

Thanks!

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Old 02-17-2011, 08:57 AM   #2
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing. But FYI the 1.25 shackle lift will only get you 3/4 of an inch max since your only lifting half of the spring.

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Old 02-17-2011, 09:26 AM   #3
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If u don't get the rear end done right away make sure u weld the pinion so it doesn't spin on u like it did to me. I'm running 10ish suspension and 3 body on 33s. Go as big as u can affoard. Once u start crawling ur gonna want to go bigger
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:26 AM   #4
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Just a question. Why go 6 inches SUA when you can get 5.5 inches easy on stock springs with SOA and retain a stock ride with better flex then SUA? Your doing a rearend swap when you have to weld on new perches anyways so why not just go SOA and be done with it. Youll also have a better approach and depature angles.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:10 PM   #5
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From what I understand soa adds a lot of instability. I also have the means of going to a 44 sua that someone had on there yj and i wouldn't be required to do any welding. and I know about the shackles the ones that I am looking at are a actual 1.25" lift so they are 2.5" longer than stock. I have looked into this. Not gonna do much crawling it is a dd and weekend warrior for now but once I am finished with it i am going to save for a dd and make it a wheeler only rig. I have to think about stability on road at this point. If i do a soa it will be years down the road and I will be doing really beefy axles. Thanks for the advice guys. If anyone has some pics it would be great.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:07 PM   #6
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Not quite SOA done correctly can be very stabile. Theres a member on here Uplifted that has done it with 4 inch lift springs. I've seen the jeep in person myself aswell. He swears he goes down the highway at speed with no bumpsteer what so ever. And that he can let go of the wheel and it just goes perfectly straight.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:09 PM   #7
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You have to understand that the unstability comes from the steering geometery not being correct for the lift height. So by doing a 6 inch sua lift youll need to do the same steering mods as soa. Just something for you to think about. But whatever you decide on good luck with the project.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:31 PM   #8
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I've done almost exactly what you asked for... I've got the RC 4" lift kit with Warrior 1-1/4" shackle lift. I have a 1" body mount/lift that's still in the box. I'm running 35x12.50x15 Mickey Thompson MTZ on 15"x10" Pro-Comp rims with 5" backspacing. There is no rubbing going down the highway or light mudding, but will rub if you're doing any moderate rock crawling...

I've got the stock 4.11 gears and 5th gear is useless unless it's flat highway... I'm looking to go 4.88's.

If you go 35's, definitely would want to swap out the dana35. That's where I'm at right now in my build...

Hope this helps...





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Old 02-17-2011, 08:36 PM   #9
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^^ Man you need to get that body lift on and trim those flares and fenders as much as you can. Those things are stuffed in there.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:40 PM   #10
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^^nice rig. How does the 2.5 run with those tires? And how has the Dana 35 rear been holding up Eck?
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:11 PM   #11
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Yeah, I know, they are stuffed up in there... The 2.5L gets it where it needs to be, but it sure ain't powerful enough (then again, when is it ever powerful enough). The idea when I got the jeep was to drop a V8 in it...

The Dana35 is holding together for now. But I'm looking to swap a Dana44. I thought about a super35 kit, but for that money, I might as well do it right... and get rid of the c-clips...
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:14 PM   #12
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I believe my '91 has a 5.5" lift installed by PO. 4" spring, 1 1/2" shackle. I removed the sway and track bars and did a little triming on the wheel wells when I got the 35" mtzs. The jeep drives great. 65-70 on the highway no problem.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:05 PM   #13
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You should do yourself a favor and check out the BDS 5" springs. They cost more than the RC's, but it's a long term investment and they've got a lifetime no bs warrantee. You break it, bend, sag it, you get a new one; period.

RC's have a tendancy to sag and you're not gonna keep clearin those 35's when they're sagged out. You could also skip one step and just go with either the shackle lift or body lift instead of both. Although I'd consider just doing a minor shackle lift (just enough to clear tires) as that'll help those springs flex better.

I can understand wanting that much lift while remaining SUA to keep the complications that come with the correct SOA setup and fabrication.....especially now that spring technology has come far enough that big lift springs actually flex now and ride nice (at least BDS does).

I've seen people get these springs for as little as $85 per spring shipped, although on average is about $120 per . Bob Suplee @ (405) 799-8977 seems to be givin the best deals on BDS.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89JEEPYJ View Post
If u don't get the rear end done right away make sure u weld the pinion so it doesn't spin on u like it did to me. I'm running 10ish suspension and 3 body on 33s. Go as big as u can affoard. Once u start crawling ur gonna want to go bigger
Hmmm...

I can't help but snicker..
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:43 PM   #15
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Armadillo Thanks for the pics! That thing looks great! I am going to the TAG cut out 6" flares for a TJ for a little more clearance and gonna trim a little. I bent one of my stock leafs last night in the mud and snow so it looks like I will be gettin started on the lift sooner than I thought. What brand SYE are you runnin with that lift?
Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:44 PM   #16
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ECK thank you for the pics also. I am thinkin this is gonna be a good lookin and fun build. Can't wait to start!
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:58 PM   #17
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Hmmm...

I can't help but snicker..
Seriously. Sometimes the kid has 8" of lift other times it's 10-11-13. WTF....Go ahead and weld the pinion.....


“It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt.”

Mark Twain....
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:30 AM   #18
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No SYE. A 1" TC drop and NO shim in the rear leafs put the pinyon and tc output shaft in paralel so there is no vibration. The longer shackels helped with the pinyon angel. PO had the shims installed wich brought the front of the axel up and caused a vibration. I still need to modify the lower shock mounts. At full extention there is some interferance between the shock and axel tube. Wunder if I can turn the shocks up side down? That would cure the interferance issue.
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:43 PM   #19
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From what I understand you can mount the shocks upside down. I am no expert so I would like some reinforcement on this answer. Seems logical.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:59 AM   #20
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Ok guys I am delaying the lift. I have the chance to get a d44 with new chromo shafts in it for $300. All I will need to do supposedly is have new shock tabs and spring mounts welded on. Any thoughts on this. I figure if I am going to put 6-700 dollars into a lift and still have an open axle D35 it is kinda pointless. I don't know how much it is going to cost me but I assume it is a pretty straight across swap to the D44 once the stuff is welded on. The Axle already has 4.10 gears as I do so there will be no need to mess with that. Only downfall is that they are drum brakes. Lookin for some advice. Anyone have experience in this and what my final cost might be close to? Any other stuff to look for?
Thanks.
Mike

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