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Old 09-24-2011, 05:58 PM   #1
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please help! 2.5 problems

Hello all! I am new to this forum stuff. But I have been looking up other posts and look very helpfull. Here is my issue I bought a 1993 jeep wrangler I had motor and tranny rebuilt. Put it all back in and I have a cutting out problem at 2500 rpm. I have read all posts about this problem. Here is what I've done so far new plugs and wires and rotor and cap, new fuel filter replaced o2 sensor as well as tps and crankshaft position sensor. I have checked catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged please help! I'm at a loss. Thanks for any help

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Old 09-24-2011, 06:55 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass5473 View Post
Hello all! I am new to this forum stuff. But I have been looking up other posts and look very helpfull. Here is my issue I bought a 1993 jeep wrangler I had motor and tranny rebuilt. Put it all back in and I have a cutting out problem at 2500 rpm. I have read all posts about this problem. Here is what I've done so far new plugs and wires and rotor and cap, new fuel filter replaced o2 sensor as well as tps and crankshaft position sensor. I have checked catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged please help! I'm at a loss. Thanks for any help
I had a similar problem, and my cat. converter was clogged from the previous engine blowing oil. I just had the new exhaust installed yesterday. Much more better gooder.
I opted to replace the muffler with a turbo tube for clearence and I can't really say what I did with the cat but lets say I put it on the porch

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Old 09-24-2011, 08:45 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. Well I checked cc but seemed fine I disconnected exhaust and still had same issue cutting out at 2500 it seems to do it after warmed up? Any ideas?
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:35 PM   #4
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still no luck

Disconnected exhaust and still have problems at 2500 rpm it seems to not happen until up to temp. Any ideas plz
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:00 AM   #5
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I had similar issues, sputtering at 2500 rpm, I replaced my map sensor and fixed my bad vacuum lines from the fuel to the canister under my battery. Problem disappeared has not came back.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:05 AM   #6
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Thanks I will try that next
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:09 AM   #7
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So the vac lines u talkin bout come from fuel rail and then to canister?
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:10 AM   #8
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Yeah the map sensor is fairly cheap and I figured my had never been replaced so being a 20 year old part, it was time regardless. The hose melted in half hitting my exhaust so I got longer hose and re-routed it. Let me know how it goes!
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:14 AM   #9
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I will let u know. Thanks again
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:26 AM   #10
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Well just an update. Just put new map sensor in and no luck. I have also noticed without even getting it up to 2500 it starts sputtering and idle drops after warming up. I can start it cold and take it up to 2500 and beyond cold just fine but as soon as it warms up it falls on its face. Any other ideas ? Gunna check fuel pressure this weekend but I'm losing patience. Any ideas would be appreciated
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #11
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Well just put in new map sensor and still stumbling when warms up. Driving me crazy
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:10 PM   #12
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in the same boat my man, some one please help us!
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:22 PM   #13
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My jeep had the same problem so i put in a new fuel pump and it helped. After three weeks though i blew the fuel pump. I got another for free because of the warranty and my jeep hasn't sputtered since.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:18 PM   #14
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how is the idle when it warms up?
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:45 PM   #15
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You can here the idle drop a lot after warm up also. What's. Best way to check fuel pump pressure? I see they sell a tester for about 50 bucks? Or can I use just vacuum tester?
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:07 PM   #16
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Both you guys need to for check fuel pressure. From the start of reading this post I was thinking fuel pressure all the way. Put the gauge on and test all the way from when you first turn the key and the fuel pump primes the system and then to the point where it starts to act up. I got a pressure tester at harbor freight awhile back. Don't think it was much more than 20 or 30 bucks. Probably not the best one on the market but it will at least give you an idea of whats going on. The best way to check is locate the little schrader valve on the fuel rail on the top of the engine. It looks exactly like the valve on your bycycle tires. It should even have a cap on it. Hook the pressure guage on that and fire it up and get your readings. I can't remember for sure what the psi should be for the 2.5L. I'm thinking at idle it should be around 35-40 psi. Hopefully someone will chime in with what it should be. Good luck and keep us posted with your findings.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:24 AM   #17
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Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it gunna check it out and get back post results
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:11 PM   #18
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So today I got a gauge and tested duel pressure. Turned key to on and needle jumped up just dune. Started it and held at 31 psi with vacuum hose in regulator and read 39 with it off. Chilton guide says that is what it is supposed to be. I then shut engine off and waited half ho. ur and pressure stayed at around 31. Now im really at a loss. Questioning everything. So the ground wire people talk about checking? Which one? I have neg batt cable ground to engine as well as starter. Then another ground coming from firewall attached to fuel rail mount bracket? Help!
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:36 PM   #19
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Well I'm moving on to ignition I guess, so I tested coil and it seems ok now as far as the stator or cam position sensor. I don't know if u can test them but I did unplug it while engine running and no change in way it was running. So is that a good thing or bad? I have a new one in order at parts store. If anyone has any suggestions weather or not I should try new one let me know plz. Thanks
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:07 PM   #20
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When you had the pressure gauge on there, did you let it get up to temp when it starts acting up?
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:21 PM   #21
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Yea I left it on there till it started bogging down and it stayed at 31
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:37 PM   #22
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try this ,double check all vac lines.
take the dist cap off and check for play in the shaft.these do go bad. also double check the rotor postion (timming)
double check the intake bolts ,take some staring fluid and shoot it around the intake where it meets the head .you may have misaligned the gasket.ask me how I know .
keep looking and Ill keep thinking .
where do you live?
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:07 PM   #23
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Thanks I will check that tomorrow. Live in smithville mo
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:29 PM   #24
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also try switching the injector wires .do the front 2 then the rear 2 .they may be in the wrong order...
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:38 PM   #25
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Ok will do thanks a lot.
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:49 PM   #26
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So does anyone know about the stator? If I unplug it while running shuldnt it do something different?
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:50 PM   #27
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I am thinking head gasket if you have checked everything else. Is your antifreeze gettiing low even a little. It doesn't take much, and it doesn't always get into the oil. Best of luck fella
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #28
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how about this unplug the fuel presure regulater vacum hose at front of fuel rail
run jeep if theres any fuel comeing out this means its bad. it will cause a ritch condition by pumping raw fuel into manifold, by the way what do the plugs look like
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:51 PM   #29
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Yea I did test that regulator the way u are describing. No fuel coming out of it. Plugs are all new. Look fine
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:55 AM   #30
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if the plugs arent coated black then its probly a misfire mayby pcm problem

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