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Old 06-17-2007, 12:03 PM   #31
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Success!! I got the pulley off with minimal effort when turning it clockwise!!


Now, to get the new one, and put it on.
Heck, I'm proud I've gotten this far on my own!

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Old 06-17-2007, 12:09 PM   #32
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Quote:
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I'm proud I've gotten this far on my own!
well sort off :duh: hehe so it finally worked? I looked at autozones website for diy procedure without any luck.

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Old 06-17-2007, 12:21 PM   #33
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well sort off :duh: hehe so it finally worked? I looked at autozones website for diy procedure without any luck.
Definitly with alot of 'thought's' on the subject, and after reviewing them all, and knowing what I had experienced, I figured it couldnt hurt to try.

Not sure if I have to remove the axel that it spins on, but I suppose I'll find that out when I go to get the new pulley.

I'm gonna take a break from thinking about it for a little bit, crack a beer, and maybe when it cools off a bit outside, I'll tackle the second half of my project.

Everyone was really helpful! The brainstorming made the pieces of the puzzle fit.

Thanks so much, and I will keep you updated on my progress.





Heck, up to this point I've been able to put washer fluid in it. I havent even changed the oil.....I always take it in to have it done. So this is something I am patting myself on my back for.
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:00 AM   #34
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The ultimate fun is tensioning the serpentine belt. The adjustment screw is part of the power steering pump assy. Not a job for big hands!
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Old 06-20-2007, 06:49 PM   #35
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The ultimate fun is tensioning the serpentine belt. The adjustment screw is part of the power steering pump assy. Not a job for big hands!
True that...but it's not bad. All heads are 13mm

Loosen 4 bolts.
1 at top center of pully.
1 at bottom center of pully.
2 on Back side of power steering. (second one is hard to reach...an extra long 13mm open end would be helpfull)

Adjustment is bolt with head facing drivers side, it is also 13mm. Turn it Clockwise to tighten.

If you havn't already figured out: Loosen alternater to remove and install the belt. 15mm bolts. Loosen one at top (pivot), remove 1 at bottom and swing alt down.
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:33 PM   #36
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Okay, I'm stuck once again.
I have the new pulley, and still can't get the bolt off of the axel that the pulley needs to be attached to. I think part of the old pulley is still attached, but have no clue.

I'm left spinning the bolt....and it doesnt tighten or loosen any more than it already is. How can one simple looking bolt be so difficult?

And go figure....the box the pulley came in says...
'Remove pulley bolt ( bolt may have either right or left handed threads)'

I'm leaning towards the possibilty that the bolt may be stripped.
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Old 07-08-2007, 02:22 PM   #37
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Well, I had to give in and take it to a repair shop. They replaced my pulley and serpentine belt....and gave me a run down on all the work my poor baby needs.

I had to have the radiator replaced, the old one was cracked. I need to replace the clutch and pilot bearing. It has a few leaks...i.e. oil pan, front axle seals. It needs differetail service, and the flywheels need to be resurfaced....

Oh, and a tune up.....it needs one badly.


Now here's the thing. I had no 'issues' with it until the pulley broke...but now I have a kind of knocking. The whole engine kind of sputters, almost like it's running out of gas. Mostly while at an idle, but even when I am driving it 'sputters' a little. I looked at the engine while it was running, and I could clearly see it 'shake' when it sputtered.


Any ideas? I know the spark plugs need to be replaced etc......a full tune up is needed, but what irks me the most is the fact that it didnt sputter until they 'fixed' my pulley and replaced the radiator....and inspected the engine.
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:18 PM   #38
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Like...OMG...I just found the problem!

Its a wire from my distrubuter cap short circuting.

Easy fix
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:03 PM   #39
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Okay, so I purchased the spark plug wires, and I'm ready to replace them.

I've never done it before, and I know I'm supposed to do one at a time, so I done cross anything.

Any helpful tips? Keep in mind, I have not completed any repairs before. I started this pulley repair and couldnt finish it. Turns out there was a hidden nut in the back.

Advice? Tips??
Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:27 PM   #40
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Make sure the engine isn't running when you try it

Seriously, like you said, just do one at a time, run the new one the same as the old, it's very simple.
Make sure the engine is cooled off.
Don't pull on the wires, pull the little rubber cups or you may pull the ends off.
Save a couple of the longer ones to put in your spare parts kit.

And take your Jeep to another shop to get a second opinion, sounds like they found all kinds of interesting "problems" with a general inspection.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:32 PM   #41
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Make sure the engine isn't running when you try it

Seriously, like you said, just do one at a time, run the new one the same as the old, it's very simple.
Make sure the engine is cooled off.
Don't pull on the wires, pull the little rubber cups or you may pull the ends off.
Save a couple of the longer ones to put in your spare parts kit.

And take your Jeep to another shop to get a second opinion, sounds like they found all kinds of interesting "problems" with a general inspection.
I'm not having the repairs done....my Pop and I figured we'd tackle it ourselves, slowly. I can't afford it, and it's about time I learned how to do it myself. I mean after all it has 133k miles and things are bound to strat happening.

There is a teeny tiny packet of grease that came with the wires. Where do I apply it?

Thanks for your help Skeeter. Somehow I knew you'd come to the rescue.

Next job will be a tune up......
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:49 PM   #42
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Just put a little bit inside the rubber cups, it keeps em sealed and makes it easier to change em next time.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:53 PM   #43
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Just put a little bit inside the rubber cups, it keeps em sealed and makes it easier to change em next time.
Sweet. This should be easy.
Thanks again.


I know I'll be back around soon for more advice.
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:48 PM   #44
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I know I'll be back around soon for more advice.
name it man

when changing sparks cold engine is a must.. its easier to remove sparkies with it cold since when they are cool they are smaller while with the engine warm.. hot metal expands and the obvious.. hot metal burns!!! :chair: As said above.. get some of that spark plug liquid/oil and put some on the threads of the sparkplug and also on the top where the rubber boot would go.

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