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Old 06-28-2013, 12:47 PM   #1
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Problem with engine mounts.

This frame is from a yj, unknown year and supposedly from a 4 cylinder. It can't be from a 6 cylinder because the engine mounts aren't close enough to the shock mounts.

The one difference that I noticed is the mount for the engine on the passenger side has 2 bolt holes (just like the driver side). My old frame had one hole with a notch, and some kind of plate between the frame and the mount.

So does anyone know why this isn't lining up? My rear drive shaft is straight, so even if I could force it into place it would be all crooked. My transfer case is also in the right spot in the skid plate.


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Old 06-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #2
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Is the drivers side already in and secure???

Loosen the T-Case/Tranny mounts but leave installed. You may have to use a jack under the oil pan to get things lined up. Also loosen the drivers side mount but don't remove. It could be bad or it just could need a little help getting into place by lloosening up the other things that are already tightened down.

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Old 06-28-2013, 10:37 PM   #3
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I have the trans mounts loose, it has about a half inch of space left but it won't budge. Before I put the skid plate on I was able to get both mounts on, and this is what happened...



The only thing I can think of is that these mounts were setup for a non-jeep engine, they have to be in the wrong place, everything is crooked. If someone knows some measurements for a 2.5L engine mount location that would be cool, then I can measure my frame on sunday and find out what's going on.

I forgot one other thing, very important. When I tried to put the front driveshaft on, it was too short, compressed all of the way. So these mounts HAVE to be too far forward. But they're not far enough forward for a 4.0L, weird...
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megamike View Post
I have the trans mounts loose, it has about a half inch of space left but it won't budge. Before I put the skid plate on I was able to get both mounts on, and this is what happened...



The only thing I can think of is that these mounts were setup for a non-jeep engine, they have to be in the wrong place, everything is crooked. If someone knows some measurements for a 2.5L engine mount location that would be cool, then I can measure my frame on sunday and find out what's going on.

I forgot one other thing, very important. When I tried to put the front driveshaft on, it was too short, compressed all of the way. So these mounts HAVE to be too far forward. But they're not far enough forward for a 4.0L, weird...
On my 4.2 the front drive shaft it a pain to put on. Same thing compressed its to long. I had to move the axle around with a jack to the u joint would fall into place.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:17 AM   #5
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Interesting. I'd imagine that it shouldn't be installed fully compressed even if I could get it in there, it would be able to move around when I hit bumps, would that cause a problem? Do you think I can just cut the mounts off the frame and just move them back an inch or two? Or would I run into other problems?

And the 4.2, I've heard of that but never really looked into it, what's up with that? There was a 3rd engine type? And were the mounts on the frame in a slightly different spot?
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megamike View Post
Interesting. I'd imagine that it shouldn't be installed fully compressed even if I could get it in there, it would be able to move around when I hit bumps, would that cause a problem? Do you think I can just cut the mounts off the frame and just move them back an inch or two? Or would I run into other problems?

And the 4.2, I've heard of that but never really looked into it, what's up with that? There was a 3rd engine type? And were the mounts on the frame in a slightly different spot?
4.2 was used 87-90 then replaced by the Fuel Injected 4.0. Mounts are in the same place for the I-6 motors and slightly different spots for the 2.5l.

As far as moving the back I'd be careful because there's not much room between the engine and firewall when mounted.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:34 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by megamike View Post
Interesting. I'd imagine that it shouldn't be installed fully compressed even if I could get it in there, it would be able to move around when I hit bumps, would that cause a problem? Do you think I can just cut the mounts off the frame and just move them back an inch or two? Or would I run into other problems?

And the 4.2, I've heard of that but never really looked into it, what's up with that? There was a 3rd engine type? And were the mounts on the frame in a slightly different spot?
How much farther does the whole motor and everything need to go back for that drive shaft to work? Like a few inches?
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:39 AM   #8
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Just thought of this! Does that frame have a vin tag? You could run the vin and it will tell you if it was a 4cyl or a 6 cylinder. Because it sounds like a 4 cyl frame. The mounts moved a little but I'm not sure what direction. I've heard guys taking there 4cly and replacing it with a 6 with minor mods. It shouldn't be that hard. Could it even be a cj or a tj frame?
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:03 PM   #9
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sounds like someone changed the mounts and got two different ones installed and they are way crooked. I just took out a 2.5 and installed a 4.2. Installed mounts from the donor vehicle and of course had to move them forward but the key was getting them in the frame straight and with same measurements from donor vehicle Good Luck
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:14 PM   #10
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I think they both need to go back just a couple of inches, the passenger side needs to go back a little more for everything to be straight. Good point on being careful with the amount of space between the engine and firewall. It's definitely a yj frame, everything else lines up perfect with the suspension and stuff.

As for the driveshaft fitting, it only needs like an inch to keep it from fully compressing. I'll see if I can get the vin off of it, but that still won't let me know if someone moved the mounts. I'm still looking for the measurements that would tell me exactly where they need to be welded on.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:16 PM   #11
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Interesting. I'd imagine that it shouldn't be installed fully compressed even if I could get it in there, it would be able to move around when I hit bumps, would that cause a problem?
This should have been "wouldn't be able to move around". I'm pretty sure it would cause problems if the driveshaft didn't have any room to compress.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:44 PM   #12
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Been really busy the past few weeks so haven't been around the jeep. So my buddy just got his engine and transmission on his 2.5 and everything lined up correctly. I went and measured where his engine mounts are. According to the measurements that I got from his frame, my passenger side mount needs to go back 1.25". Which makes sense because I have my driver side mount hooked up, and when I straight out the rear driveshaft the mount on the engine is indeed about 1.25" away from being able to drop into the mount on the frame. Makes perfect sense.

But here is where it gets weird. My driver side mount is in the exact same spot as my friends. So the question is, why is my drive shaft too long? I can't measure my old frame because we cut the front off to make it a little more easy to get the engine out.

We are going to re-measure everything again tomorrow, and I think I'll have his measure his driveshaft too just to be sure. I also compared the distance between the leaf spring mounts and the adjacent body mounts on both sides and compared them to my old frame and they match perfectly. The reason for this is I had a suspicion that the front end was off, so that is ruled out.

The only solution I can come up with is measure, measure again, and move the passenger mount back 2.25" and the driver side mount back 1". I looked at the clearance on his jeep between the engine and firewall and in theory I have enough room, but who knows what else could be off.

There is also the option of just putting the passenger side mount back 1.25" where it is supposed to be and using a slightly shorter driveshaft, but I don't even know where to start on finding that.

It just doesn't make sense that the driver side mount is apparently in the correct spot, yet the drive shaft is too long and compresses completely. All of this stuff was functional on my old frame.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:54 PM   #13
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Something else that I didn't think of, are the engine brackets different on a 95 compared to an 97 through 90?
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:59 PM   #14
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I'm thinking when they changed the engines somewhere around 90 maybe they also changed the brackets on the engine. So for example lets say this frame is from before 90. If I find the brackets that attach to the engine (if they can attach to a 95 engine) then maybe everything will line up.

Google is letting me down on this...
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:09 PM   #15
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I believe the mounts are the same for the 87-91 as the 91-95 but I may be wrong. The blocks are identical the only difference is the fuel injection, Tbi vs multi-port
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:15 PM   #16
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That's what I originally thought before I started this project. Now I'm not so sure. I measured over and over because I couldn't believe it, but my passenger side mount on this frame is too far forward by 1.25" and I don't know why. But I was thinking maybe the engine mount that bolts to engine could be different, who knows.

I think I'm going to do this: Carefully cut the mounts off of the frame and attach them to the engine. Install the driveshafts and let them fall into the correct position. I can see how compressed they used to be by the dark rings on them. Make sure everything is straight and do a quick crappy weld to get the mounts to stay on the frame. Undo the mount bolts, and weld the mounts into place. I think I'm done measuring, I'll just let it go where it feels comfortable lol.

edit: I should probably take some measurements and compare them to my friends to make sure the engine won't hit the firewall before I actually weld.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #17
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We got everything where it wants to be and marked out where to weld. Where it's at now it gives us 1.25" of play on the front drive shaft, and plenty on the rear drive shaft. Plus everything is straight. So tomorrow we weld and I can finally get moving on this project, thanks for all of the advice

I'm still pretty damn confused on how the passenger side mount is in a slightly different spot, it looks like the factory weld. Oh well atleast the problem appears to be solved at this point.

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