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Old 06-20-2012, 07:06 PM   #1
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RC 4" Lift Install Help Fast!! PLEase!

93 yj 4.0 5 speed manual. Bought 4 inch from rough country. Been a nightmare. Im working on front, I got old shocks and springs out. Put in new springs. Now need help with shocks. How do I do them? I removed the wire on one of them is that correct?. Check out pics and let me know what I need to do. ALso I couldnt get the brake line bracket out. I think i might of stripped the torx bolt holding it to the frame (I used t40 is that the right size). Do i need to use their new brackets or is that an option, I dont want the brake lines ripping out because they arent mounted right with the added lift. Here are some pics of were Im at. The pic with hardware is what I have, the instructions says that bag should of also had 6 spring eye bushings or eye spring bushings but they werent in there. Anyone know what those are, what they are for and what they look like. Any protection for these new shocks?? Seems like they are pretty unprotected. I have a pic of how I think the the bushings and washers go on top of the shock but let me know if thats right or wrong. Also did you guys have to hammer in the sleeve in bottom of shock, I did that on one of them seemed like thats were it was supposed to go..? The instructions included in this are pretty bad. If anyone had installed this and can say ANYTHING that will help me Id love to know. PLease help ahhah

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:08 PM   #2
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:11 PM   #3
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the bushings might be in the ends of the leaf springs.

sorry, i cannot see the pics because i am at work.

i would imagine you really need to get that brake line free or it will probably tear out on you at the most inopportune time, like always happens.

the shocks don;t get boots unless you paid extra for some.

for the shock bushings, the rubber pieces go in the middle and the curved washers go on the top and bottom, or outsides.

rough country instructions are not the greatest, thats for sure. my lift from them was the same way back in my cherokee days.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #4
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pics showed up, you are correct in your bushing orientation
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:35 PM   #5
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Okay thanks alot. So the spring eye bushings?? Your saying they're in the leaf springs? The instructions said they were supposed to be 6 in the bag that had front and rear shock hardware.... ? Not too sure. Are you supposed to remove the twisted wire from shock before installing? And was I correct in hammering in the sleeve in bottom of shock? I really want to make sure I'm
Doing this all
Right before going back down in garage tomorrow night, today was a real pain in the a**. Any tips will be really
Really appreciated lol
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:16 PM   #6
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the bushings might be in the leaf springs, in the ends, yes. if not, then they forgot to send them.

yes, you remove the wire before installing the shocks, you are good there.

sometimes those sleeves require more then normal force but you can also put some dish soap on bushings to make them go in easier. sometimes if you hammer then in dry, you can tear of do premature damage on rubber/urethane parts because the metal catches and rips them. but that lower shock one will probably be ok.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:33 PM   #7
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If you were closer, I would give ya a hand. I have done this job 3 times now. Gets easier each time. I left the wire on the shock till I was ready to install it. The wires are to hold the gas charged shock in a closed postition and can be somewhat difficult to install once they are already expanded.

If you are not able to get the brake line relocation bracket out, then I would get replacement brake lines to be safe. Like stated above, you don't want to have your brakes fail on the road or trail.

Shock boots are pure cosmetic, and do nothing for the performance of a shock. I have put my Jeep places that would make a mountain goat dizzy and my shocks are fine minus a couple of scratches. I did replace the front ones when I flipped my shackle and cuased the shock shaft to bend a bit. For getting the sleave into the bottom of the shock, I used a little grease and my vise to press them in. That way, I was able to control the pressure and make sure it was not going in at an angle.

The good news on your lift is that the rear goes in a ton easier than the front. You will be suprised how easy the rear fits into place.

Other hints I have are to not bother putting in the track bar relocation brackets and run without the track bars at all. You will get a smoother ride and better articuation off road. If you have any more questions, feel free to post up. There are a ton of helpful guys and gals here on the forum.

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:38 PM   #8
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Thanks turdhurdler. Tomorrow I'll work on getting in shocks and maybe the brake line brackets, I Need to do all new brake lines anyway. So from my picture If I install it as it looks like I have the bushings and curved washers it's correct... Right? And then Ill just grease up and press in the sleeves in bottom of shock. I'm gonna call rough country tomorrow on what the deal is with the 6 spring eye bushings and why they are grouped in the front and rear shock hardware section in instruction manual.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:40 PM   #9
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Rought Country

It looks like you have the washer upside down on the shock. The washers are cupped to enclose the rubber. The rubber goes into the cup both top and bottom of the mounting at the top of the shock.

Use some silicone based lube on the metal sleeves where you insert them into the shocks. They go in the bottoms of the front shocks and both ends of the rear.

The retainers are to hold the shocks for shipping. You can cut them before, but I cut them as I install. Install the bottoms, line up the tops for insertion and cut the restrainer. Let them expand into their position. Easier then trying to force them closed.

If you have stripped out the torx for the brake line, you can try and use a vice grip on the head to get it out. Try and use plenty of penetrant. I tried to get them out of my old rusted frame and twisted a lifetime guaranteed Torx. Will take it back. Fortuntely I can abandon it as I had the ones in the replacement frame.

be sure not to tighten the nuts on the shock mounts as tight as you can. They need to flex. Just tighten them to where you can see them press solidly against the metal mounting bracke. The nuts are compression nuts and designed not to have to be tightened to hold. Same with top of front, just tighten to where you see the rubber bulge slightly.

I got quite a few extra shock sleeves in my set.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:44 PM   #10
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i wonder if they are talking about the bushings in the shocks, calling them spring eye bushings? nah, can't be. and why only 6? there are 6 on each spring because each spring takes 3 but they are cut in half.

oh well, you look like you are doing good though and the set up in your picture is correct so put them in that same way and be sure to align the holes in the upper shockmount with the part of the rubber bushing that sticks out. that little extra rubber piece that looks like a washer on the bushing. it goes into the hole in the metal since the hole is a bit larger then the shock tube
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:50 PM   #11
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Another thing to be aware of on this job is your pitman arm. If you are not soaking is in a quality penetrating oil yet, start now. And continue to reapply several times. This was the hardest part of my entire install as I broke the puller tool I rented. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:56 PM   #12
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for the brake lines.. I was not able to ,move the fronts, but with the white shocks that came with mine the max drop was less than the max of the brake lines. so for the time being I am okay, not sure on the shocks you have.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:57 PM   #13
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Thanks ballistix. Yeah I will do the installation with other shocks as you suggests as cutting wire after the bottom Of shock is inatalled. You said I have cupped washer the wrong way but Busemans says it looks good? Lol...


As far as those 6 spring
Eye bushings it's still a mystery lol. Maybe rough country can help me out tomorrow. I'll use the grease and tap in the sleeves into bottom of
Shock and then install them As long as I can get the top part with 2 rubber bushings and cupped washers correct. I'm just afraid those other bushings thwy are talking about in instructions are needed on the top of shock?? This is my first time replacing shocks so I'm learning as I go lol. Thanks for the help guys it's really appreciated
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #14
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Yeah I've had everything soaking in pb blaster and liquid wrench. The pitman arm and transfer case drop will be the last two things done and probably the worst part cuz my crossmemeber and frame rail where it
Mounts to are all rotted and rusted and I'll have to have a new piece welded in on bottom of frame rail lengthwise where crossmember mounts to. Pitman arm drop is another story and I'll post pics and questions when I get to that step lol. Everyone said this kit was a
Easy bolt on but being a new England 20 year old car, it's pretty tough... I'm just gonna take it slow, with your guys help I'll get it done hopefully!! Lol
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:07 PM   #15
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the picture looks like the cup is around the rubber. his description is proper, the concave of the washer goes towards the bushing which is what it looks like to me but maybe wording it will actually be better since maybe the pic just looks right but the washer might be upside down
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:47 AM   #16
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Called rough country, the 6 spring eye bushings Were already installed in the shocks themselves they are the rubber pieces that the sleeeves get pressed into. I'm gonna try and word how the shocks are set up. The way I have the top of shock set up is a concave washer on bottom in a u shape pointing up, rubber bushing, then another rubber bushing, then concave washer in upside down u shape then the nut. Is that correct? I'm gonna try and get this installed this morning.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:54 AM   #17
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Ok so I got shocks and sway bar links in on front. Anyone know what the clamps are called that hold in sway bar just under radiator. There are 2, 1 on each end and there is a rubber piece on sway bar that the clamp must go over. Anyone know the diameter of these and what they are called? Mine are rusted/ broke.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:21 AM   #18
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okay so here are a couple pics of bumpstops and brake line brackets that came out the package. Instructions on brake line relocation is very vague, maybe one of you guys can help expain it a bit better. Also does my bumpstops look correct. Is the rubber one on frame rail stock, it doesnt look like theres much room for travel: although axel is still jacked up a little bit, Idk..
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #19
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There are just called sway bar clamps. I am sure you will have to get them from Morris 4x4 or some place like that. The sway bars come in three or four different sizes so you have to measure yours to get the size but I think I got mine off the shelf at autozone where the red bushings are sold by the air filters and mufflers
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:23 PM   #20
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No idea on the brake line adapters. Last lift I put on was my Cherokee and Chevy truck brake lines are the same connectors and 12" longer so I used those
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:32 PM   #21
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Oh okay cool, I'll check autozone first. My dad is concerned about those bumpstops, he just seems like there won't be much travel now... Neither of us are sure if it's right
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:10 PM   #22
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The bumpstops are correct. They are that way with the extenders to keep the shocks from over extending or compressing too much. You will still get great flex out of them. I have actually had to trim my Fender flairs to keep my tires from rubbing. And that was with 31" tires even.

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Old 06-21-2012, 09:37 PM   #23
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Is removing and replacing pitman arm necessary for the 4
Inch lift?? I've heard nightmares in
Getting it off. And what is it connected to? Looks like a tie rod maybe? If it's not
Necessary Id rather not replace it. If so i may see how much a shop would charge to just remove and replace it
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:46 PM   #24
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I am not sure if it is necessary, but I did it to mine., Was a pain in the butt. Finially used a grinder with a cut off wheel after I broke a puller. If you can find a shop to do it for a decent price, go for it. I am cheap and don't like to pay for anything more than the parts. Once you get the old one off, use blue locktight to keep it in place. I did not and it wanted to back off after a couple thousand miles.

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Old 06-22-2012, 08:15 AM   #25
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I highly recommend switching the pitman arm to the extended one that came with the kit,it will correct your tierod/drag link angle .You can rent a puller from autozone ,they will refund your money when you bring it back,use an impact gun when putting the new piman arm back on .The hardest part of doing the lift is getting the old stuff off ,the new stuff goes on like buttah !
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #26
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If the puller ends up breaking did you have to pay for it. I'll probably be renting from autozone
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:04 AM   #27
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Yep, I paid for it. Basically, they charge you the total cost of the tool when you rent it. Then if you break or don't return it, it is already paid for. I think it was like 20 bucks to rent it. If you return it, they just simply give you the money back.

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Old 06-22-2012, 04:24 PM   #28
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So once it is removed do you just replace with the other one or do you have to adjust anything, thought I read something about having to adjust toe in/out after installing the new drop pitman
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #29
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did mine about a year ago we didn't have to adjust the alignment
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:33 PM   #30
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An alignment is recommended but if you are lucky, not necessary. Another thing I just remembered... when I did my lift, the front brake line on the passenger side was rubbing the tire sidewall. To fix this, either zip tie or get a carborator spring to pull the brake line to the shock post.

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