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Old 07-14-2013, 09:29 PM   #1
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Rear coil overs

Would I get more droop if I swapped my rear leaf springs for coils? I noticed my front droops a few extra inches over my rear. I was thinking maybe coils overs in the rear just to get rid of my traction bar and crossmember. I know I would need to do some welding on the frame and axle, I am just not sure if the cost of time and money are worth the benefits, or what springs I would need in the rear.

I should also add I would steer clear of kits and rather piece this together if I do it so everything is how I want it.

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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:56 PM   #2
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Most of the time, And that is a big most, simular travel can be achieved with either. The biggest advantage isnt flex, it is no axle wrap, controlled movement, adjustable height, etc.

I would say pick up poly performances rear 4 link frame brackets. Some quality rod ends or cartridge joints, and either buy axle brackets/truss or make em. The poly brackets figure oit the main geometry for you and its a nice peice.

A crappily designed link setup is a horrible horrible thing with too much anti squat, unloading, wheelhop and all other sorts of goodies.

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Old 07-14-2013, 10:00 PM   #3
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Tj coils and a 1 link
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:26 PM   #4
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The axle wrap I have taken care of, but that is why I said I could lose my traction bar if I did switch it over. The thing I am concerned about is droop so that my tires in the rear stay on the ground longer before the spring lifts them off.

If I were to buy TJ coils what size would I get to match the front?
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:41 PM   #5
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You have to have a traction bar of some sort. Stock ones will be fine but its alot of fab work

The one links serve as a traction bar
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:04 PM   #6
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Yeah you are talking about the rear track bar I took off a long time ago right? I have an 88, so I would have to weld a new trac bar mount anyways on my rear axle. I am assuming you are talking about the rear control arms acting as a traction bar?
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:15 PM   #7
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One links are ok for a offroad only rig.

They do have bad roll steer and some wonky anti squat issues. Great for a budget as they only require the single rod end/grader ball and a panhard.
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2.5/ax5/ 231-300 doubler, Dana 60 front( 4ws springless double arm, tierod behind axle, 4ws springless driver side arm, hydro assist) 14bff , detroit, discs, pinion guard) Warn x8000i w/synthetic line, York OBA, Cage, Flat belly, miniboatside, tube fenders,3 link front w/ 14in Kings,4 link rear with TJ coils and Bilstiens, comp cut, 108WB, H1 Double beadlocks, 39.5 IROKs
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:14 AM   #8
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I have not seen that before. My rig has to be safe for long road trips. I am guessing the swaybar/panhard bar would make that happen?

I am also guessing since you both skipped it neither of you know what size coild I would need? I am trying to put a price tag on this at this point. I know if it is expensive I can get the stuff over time on craigslist for cheap. I just dont know exactly what I would need.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:31 AM   #9
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Well I got to thinking and you cant run coils with a standard width axle on a Yj without tons of mods. Coilovers, air shocks, or air struts are about your only option. Regardless what you choose your going to have to build either a one link, 3 link, 4 link to hold everything in place. This stuff isn't anything you can get on Craigslist, it's 100 percent made.

What NorCal said is true most of the time but its possible to make it drive well with a one link. I have had several and even had a dd on 39s. Swaybar is key on those.

The problem with a 4 link in any jeep (or framed vehicle) is that it's nearly impossible to put the bars at the right angle and provide a mounting point at the length required. All the tube rigs have the link bars already in place and have the chassis built around that. Download the 4 link calculator and play around a bit, you'll see.

Why not just swap out your rear spring for some other kind of leafs? What kind of travel do you have now? My 2" ome springs net me 36 inches
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:00 AM   #10
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Yeah I dont have 36" of travel. They go up great and I can stuff my 33's all the way into the wheel wells, but the droop in the rear is not as good. It is about the same as my front with the sway bar connected. It should drop another 4-5". My traction bar is not inhibiting it. Not sure what I should do. Maybe I will pull the bolts and stick some marine grease on them. I havent greased them in about a year now.

The links I know I can make with some heim joints and SCH 80 pipe. The mounts for them are easy enough to fabricate too. It is more the parts for the coils I would buy on Craigslist if someone was parting out a TJ. The upper and lower parts of the spring mounts and some lift springs.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:16 AM   #11
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The problem is there's not enough room between the axle and frame on a Yj for coils in the back

The tj frames are allot different with provisions for coils

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