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Old 02-24-2012, 05:06 AM   #1
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Rear Diff damage

Hey,

I have a 95 sahara with d30 front and d35 rear. The jeep is stock with no lift.

The rear diff oil seal had been leaking for some time now and we fixed it last night by taking out teh shaft and replace bothside oil seals. Transfer case and rear diff.The workshop guy didn't make teh pinion yoke and shaft yoke, and teh pinion yoke and pinion yoke nut for alignment.

After putting every thing back, it seemed to be ok on teh drive back home (about 3 kms). No noise, no hum, etc. This morning as I went out and got on the highway (about 6-7 kms), I felt a vibration develope (like driving over a catapiller track) while i was trying to figure out if it was teh road or the jeep, a loud humm and grinding sound started coming and i pulled to teh side. Ther was smoke from teh rear diff and teh new oil seal was melting away!!


I am at loss to figure out why this happened. My diff is apperently ruined, although not broken (as I toped teh oil and drove it home slowly with loud humming sound from teh diff) but I would really want to know it that alignment marks on teh shaft yoke and nut are really that important? If yes, how do i get teh shaft in alignment when i replace teh diff parts now?

In this part of the world where I live, friday and sat is teh weekend and I cant get anything done untill sunday.

Any help and thoughts are much appriciated.

Thanks in Advance!

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Old 02-24-2012, 06:22 AM   #2
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Most likley you smoked the pinion bearings. May have done more damage but won't be able to tell till it's opened up. The whole rear end will need to be re setup or at least checked if you replace the pinion bearings.

It happens a lot becasue people don't know what they are doing. When I did mine seal I marked the nut to the yoke. I also took a pinion bearing preload measurement then replaced it and reloaded it +5 inlbs.(this is the way the hanes manual says to do it) I am glad i did it both ways because the mark the nut method would have left it loose. The seal has not leaked a bit over 3k miles and also a few wheeling trips.

Sorry to hear, spending money on a d35 sucks.

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Old 02-24-2012, 11:44 AM   #3
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thanks. thats what I suspect. Nut tightened too far . Opening it tomorrow!!

ANy idea if the d35 has crumple sleve or shims for pre-load? also any suggestion on doing the set up without the gagues, as only the agency has them here!
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:23 AM   #4
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Any help and suggestions on this are highly valued!
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:25 AM   #5
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The d35 should be a crush sleeve. You can get shim kits for certain rear ends. basically you do the crush sleeve to set everything. Then remove it and shim it to the same measurement as the crush sleeve.

You need gauges and tools to setup a rear end. Hopefully the pinion dod not bounce around in the housing too much and your R&P are ok. Other wise a whole gear set and full setup will be needed.

Honestly it may be cheaper to find a used/junkyard d35 and just replace the whole damn thing. Or a great opportunity to do an 8.8 swap...
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:24 AM   #6
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Not so lucky!!!

opened it, Pinion bent, front bearing broken, rest all is OK

There were no shims on teh pinion but found two metal pcs, flat like coin about teh size of a quater between both teh bearings. there was no sleve also.


I have been reading a lil bit about teh crush sleve and shims to adjust the preload and depth, but i am still confused as to how excatly to do it!!!

and pls advise on teh 8.8 swap also.

thanks for all the help and advise.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:59 PM   #7
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screw the ford 8.8 and just go crazy and get one ton axles out of a f250-f350 super duty and never look back. i love that i made this jump

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