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Old 04-06-2012, 09:06 PM   #1
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Remove CAD with locker?

I have lock right lockers in my YJ and am fed up with the central axle disconnect. I plan on locking the collar and shift fork over until I get a new axle. What's the take on it with a locker? Anyone else run this way?
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:04 PM   #2
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I have an 89 with axle disconnect. They have taken off thr vaccum and put a cable on it i also have the lock right locker and i just figured out how to work all of it. So far i am 110% happy with it.

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Old 04-06-2012, 10:43 PM   #3
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The locker shoul only engage with power to it so when your in 2wd you should be ok.

Locked front makes it harder to turn with no way to disco the axle. You should be fine running it that way.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:50 AM   #4
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I have a locker and disco front axle but replaced the vacumn operated fork with a manual ( cable) so it is now like a poor mans selective diff.

There have been times in me last jeep where being open in front axle was an advantage

And yes, last jeep ( xj) was locked fore and aft too!
but didnt have a disco
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:37 AM   #5
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Thanks. Locked it is!
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #6
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I know that it is done a lot, but I do not like putting in aussies/spartans etc in the front unless there is some way to unlock the hubs and/or the axle due to it WILL catch sometimes making it hard and dangerous to turn even when it's in two wheel drive. I had my shaft locked over for a temporary fix and it locked a couple times when I was turning. Its not the best feeling in the world!
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:22 AM   #7
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hi guyz,.im currently on a 4.5" lift with 33" 93 YJ.. running a powertrax no-slip locker in my dana 35, its worked great for about 3yrs,..now the whole axle will be replaced in a cple of weeks with a dana 44 limited slip, (track-lock!) so my next traction battle for the muddy stuff is putting a powertrax no-slip in the HP dana 30 (CAD), which is a strong axle and my switch motor has always worked great!,.. from my experience i feel this set up of a locked dana30 up front & limited dana44 rear should serve me well...any thoughts on this set up? experiences/problems from same or similar?
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:27 PM   #8
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I ran locked hp30 up front and a locked 44 back aft with 4.88 gears front axle was not a disco, and Loved it!
Now running 4.10 gears with a disco hp 30
So being locked up front aint no thing to me!
Been doing it for years, sun, rain, and espesially Snow! Lol
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spunebil View Post
I ran locked hp30 up front and a locked 44 back aft with 4.88 gears front axle was not a disco, and Loved it!
Now running 4.10 gears with a disco hp 30
So being locked up front aint no thing to me!
Been doing it for years, sun, rain, and espesially Snow! Lol
And its A daily driver as I have nothing else to drive! Lol
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:05 PM   #10
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I have a Spartan up front with tj shafts to eliminate my cad plus bigger u-joints, I left everything hooked up but it doesn't cause any issues. with this set up, my front drive line always spins but I don't have any vibes. I also got a awesome deal on a used warn hub conversion, so that will be added soon! I forget I have the locket up front still the time. I never hear or feel ratcheting, clicking, or popping.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickabis View Post
I have a Spartan up front with tj shafts to eliminate my cad plus bigger u-joints, I left everything hooked up but it doesn't cause any issues. with this set up, my front drive line always spins but I don't have any vibes. I also got a awesome deal on a used warn hub conversion, so that will be added soon! I forget I have the locket up front still the time. I never hear or feel ratcheting, clicking, or popping.

Is yours working properly? It locks in 4 wheel drive? Maybe mine i messed up because with solid shafts and in 2 wheel drive it will lock occasionally. Not often, but occasionally. Works awesome off-road though
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 183Beast

Is yours working properly? It locks in 4 wheel drive? Maybe mine i messed up because with solid shafts and in 2 wheel drive it will lock occasionally. Not often, but occasionally. Works awesome off-road though
Yep, it works perfectly! The only time I really heard it ratchet is when I had the diff cover off and testing it.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:44 AM   #13
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Locker in the D30 with CAD delete

So, what is the answer here? I removed the vac lines from the CAD in my D30 and put in the kit that locks the passenger axle to a 1 piece. Can or should I put in a locker or not?

Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by James J Jeep View Post
So, what is the answer here? I removed the vac lines from the CAD in my D30 and put in the kit that locks the passenger axle to a 1 piece. Can or should I put in a locker or not?

Thanks!
Yes, you engage 4wd at the transfer case so as long as you are in 2wd the front shafts are still disengaged from power from the transmission/motor. They should act no different with locker. I'm in the process with doing this.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steves92 View Post
Yes, you engage 4wd at the transfer case so as long as you are in 2wd the front shafts are still disengaged from power from the transmission/motor. They should act no different with locker. I'm in the process with doing this.
Thanks! Let me know how it goes. What kind of locker are you installing?
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:36 PM   #16
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Aussie in front(for now)..I have ARB in rear. Couldn't swing the funds for ARB up front but thats my ultimate plan-who knows, maybe never end up doing it
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:03 PM   #17
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Just purchased a 95 YJ that has a Lockrite locker up front with the manual CAD cable. The PO told me he always drove it on the street with out the CAD engaged in 2WD, and when off road he mostly drove it in 4WD but without engaging the cable so it was basically 3WD only on rare occasions pulled the cable to engage the 4th wheel. I had it sitting about a week and the first time I went to drive it it made a god-awful racket and I had to fight the wheel hard to turn. I stopped and pulled the cable and it seemed to work ok after that. Anyone have thoughts on this? I know some people convert to a one piece shaft instead, doesn't engaging the CAD essentially make it a one piece shaft? Why was it next to impossible to turn when the CAD was not engaged?
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Old 05-31-2016, 02:59 PM   #18
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Even with an open diff and in '4wd' it's difficult to turn on dry pavement or where you have good traction(you should never engage 4wd on dry pavement), at least that's how I remember it in my Jeep and old Toyota 20 years ago. Was your shifter on the floor in 4wd hi or lo?
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steves92 View Post
Even with an open diff and in '4wd' it's difficult to turn on dry pavement or where you have good traction(you should never engage 4wd on dry pavement), at least that's how I remember it in my Jeep and old Toyota 20 years ago. Was your shifter on the floor in 4wd hi or lo?
The shifter was in 2wd and the CAD disengaged.
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:45 PM   #20
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Weird..all the cable does is make it a '1 piece' axle?
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fun sized View Post
Just purchased a 95 YJ that has a Lockrite locker up front with the manual CAD cable. The PO told me he always drove it on the street with out the CAD engaged in 2WD, and when off road he mostly drove it in 4WD but without engaging the cable so it was basically 3WD only on rare occasions pulled the cable to engage the 4th wheel. I had it sitting about a week and the first time I went to drive it it made a god-awful racket and I had to fight the wheel hard to turn. I stopped and pulled the cable and it seemed to work ok after that. Anyone have thoughts on this? I know some people convert to a one piece shaft instead, doesn't engaging the CAD essentially make it a one piece shaft? Why was it next to impossible to turn when the CAD was not engaged?
Could be that the tcase shift linkage is out of adjustment (adjustable at the linkage bushing).

Or, were you moving in 2wd while you were trying to engage 4wd (not the cable shifter)?

Or, could be that the locker is out of adjustment, or teeth are worn, or springs fatigued, or locking edges are rounded off/worn.

Or, could be that when you tried to engage the cable - the teeth on both sets of the shafts & collar were not aligned (they seldom are), and if you were moving at the time, this would cause even more grinding noises as things were not aligned yet.

Or, possibly the teeth on the shafts, and or collar have been rounded, or the collar or shift cable is out of adjustment.

There are other possible causes, or a combination of possible other causes. I'd check what I mentioned first though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steves92 View Post
Even with an open diff and in '4wd' it's difficult to turn on dry pavement or where you have good traction (you should never engage 4wd on dry pavement), at least that's how I remember it in my Jeep and old Toyota 20 years ago. Was your shifter on the floor in 4wd hi or lo?
Steve, with a reasonably reliable driveline (parts that haven't developed stress cracks etc) it's okay to engage 4wd (stock or while locked F&R too) on high traction surfaces.

If it wasn't - how the heck could all the stockers do it & drive for miles and hours on end, in Moab, where Moab is mostly a high traction surface terrain with steep and shelf climbs & decents? The traction in Moab is generally considered much higher than a paved road.

Just sayin, not arguing.
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:11 PM   #22
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Joe, good to know. I guess I'm worried of added stress on parts and being in 4wd and locked when I could be fine being in 2wd. That's more what I meant. I value your advice!👍
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Old 06-01-2016, 11:09 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
Could be that the tcase shift linkage is out of adjustment (adjustable at the linkage bushing). Or, were you moving in 2wd while you were trying to engage 4wd (not the cable shifter)? Or, could be that the locker is out of adjustment, or teeth are worn, or springs fatigued, or locking edges are rounded off/worn. Or, could be that when you tried to engage the cable - the teeth on both sets of the shafts & collar were not aligned (they seldom are), and if you were moving at the time, this would cause even more grinding noises as things were not aligned yet. Or, possibly the teeth on the shafts, and or collar have been rounded, or the collar or shift cable is out of adjustment. There are other possible causes, or a combination of possible other causes. I'd check what I mentioned first though. Steve, with a reasonably reliable driveline (parts that haven't developed stress cracks etc) it's okay to engage 4wd (stock or while locked F&R too) on high traction surfaces. If it wasn't - how the heck could all the stockers do it & drive for miles and hours on end, in Moab, where Moab is mostly a high traction surface terrain with steep and shelf climbs & decents? The traction in Moab is generally considered much higher than a paved road. Just sayin, not arguing.
I guess I didn't describe it accurately. I was in 2wd and the cable was not engaged. I was barely moving, pulling forward out of driveway onto street. Not trying to shift to 4wd or engage the cable CAD. When I tried to turn left I had to fight the steering wheel and heard a loud noise from front axle. Pulled on the road. Same thing through three more turns. Pulled over, still in 2wd and engaged CAD cable and it was ok after that, just normal clicking I've heard people describe with a locker
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:33 PM   #24
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Joe, good to know. I guess I'm worried of added stress on parts and being in 4wd and locked when I could be fine being in 2wd. That's more what I meant. I value your advice!��
Gotcha.

I too will sometimes drive in 2wd either locked or unlocked in high or low (I have a twin stick atlas & was running F&R ARB's for ~15 years).

Or, run in front wheel drive only in low, either locked or unlocked. Lots of choices with an Atlas, ARB's, and manual hubs.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by James J Jeep View Post
So, what is the answer here? I removed the vac lines from the CAD in my D30 and put in the kit that locks the passenger axle to a 1 piece. Can or should I put in a locker or not?

Thanks!
I'm going to install a locker mine soon and I have the Cable locking CAD, that should work fine when I don't want all 4 to pull, like in Ice and Snow.
To the OP, I think your cable for the CAD needs to be readjusted, that may be the noise you heard, if it's not fully Out and you are turning the front axles are spinning at different speeds and grinding in the collar.

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