Picked up a new jeep and didn't know it had a locker in it and couldn't tell when I took it for a little test drive. The guy I got it from didnt tell me that it had one until I asked about it after I started having problems with the rear hopping every time I pull into a parking lot or turn at stop lights. He said it was his town driver and never had any problems until asked if it had one and then he said it did and he hated it. Anyway, I'm not a fan since I don't off road any and it's a non lifted 2.5 manual. How hard would it be to remove it? Or what is my best option?
I think you would need to buy new spider gears. If your looking to get rid of that locker let me know. I've been wanting to buy one but don't have much cash around ATM. Check eBay for the spider gears, they shouldn't be that much.
Sounds like he has an Aussie or similar lunchbox locker in there? Hopefully, he didn't weld the spider gears If it was hopping and not clicking...sounds like welding??? (someone with more experience, chime in here)
Before you do anything, I'd recommend you drive it for a while. You might get used to it, and a locker is good for offroad. The counterpoint to that...Many people here say that a locker in a Dana 35 axle is a bad idea, as you are more prone to break something in the axle.
1995 YJ, 4.0L, AX15, 3" susp lift; Lock Right in Dana 30; 8.8 w/ARB; Flat Tummy Tuck, 1" Daystar BL; 1" MORE MML; 35" MT/r Tires;
I wouldn't mind the offroad part because I do hunt and stuff where it would come in handy, but the back end kinda hops and chirps tires every time I pull in some place, especially sonic. Can't cut it very sharp at all
Okay. Guess I better just dig in and see what it is. Probably wouldn't have got the jeep if I would have known, it's just more of a pain in town driving. But when I took it for a run down the road I didnt even notice it. Hopefully it'll be something I can handle replacing.
It is not a big deal. It is different then just reversing the locker install though since spider gears are completely different from a locker. You will also need new thrust washers since depending on what type of locker is installed they might not be in there.
As far as driving with it, if it is an autmatic locker just let off the gas around turns and it wont be locked. Automatic lockers only engage when you have your foot on the gas, otherwise the spins freely and will click a bit. If there is a spool in it it will be locked 100% of the time. And if it is a selectable locker, then somewhere there is a mechanism to disengage it. The only one bad on road is the spool. The other you just need to understand how they work and everything will be fine.
Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.