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Old 05-25-2009, 08:52 PM   #31
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cranky cranky, sounds like my ex-alabama red neck wife.

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Old 05-25-2009, 08:54 PM   #32
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cranky cranky, sounds like my ex-alabama red neck wife.
now i get it. glad you shed some light on that one

my other concern is how many ex wives do you have since you have to designate them by state?

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Old 05-25-2009, 09:17 PM   #33
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now i get it. glad you shed some light on that one

my other concern is how many ex wives do you have since you have to designate them by state?
Hahaha. "All my exes live in Texas, so I hang my hat in Tennessee."

Unfortunately for me, all my exes live in WA, mostly in the same county I do
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:23 PM   #34
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Well I have been wrenching for 30+ years myself.
I had rebuilt, & even brand new starters & alternators that were bad.

Advance auto & auto zone can bench test your starter for free. Cant beat free!

While the guy testing it may not have a clue, it's worth a try.

Now that is my advice, if the original problem actually was the starter.

It could still have been the battery. A "Headlights on, while trying to start" test
would be the first thing I'd try. Then a jumpstart.

Failing these, I'd take a look at the starter switch located on top of the steering column, under the dash.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:27 PM   #35
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i gotta keep saying it, i've seen more wrong answers from those idiots testing parts. and they usually take your part thats bad, and tell you its good.

i'd just replace it before going by their test. and again, tons of bad rebuild electrical parts out of the boxes, especially at the discount parts stores.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:36 PM   #36
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i gotta keep saying it, i've seen more wrong answers from those idiots testing parts. and they usually take your part thats bad, and tell you its good.
Hey, I totally agree with you on this. But if you get someone who knows how to use the test bench, it may give you some insight.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:42 PM   #37
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you can try giving your starter direct power by boosting your own jeep, you get jumper cables and on one side of the cables you put the red postive on the postive terminal on the battery ,the black negative on the negative terminal of the battery ,then on the other end of the cables you hook up the ground black negative wire to apart of your jeep thats metal, most likey frame parts then the red postive apply it to your starter theres like three bolts on the starter do not put it on the negative this will burn your wire out!, just switch between the two bolts ,when applying it all you want to do is put the red wire on the bolt for one good crank then you take it off and hit the other bolt ,so the starter stops spinning then repeat the process till it turns on.IMPORTANT YOU MUST HAVE YOUR JEEP ON ,PUT THE KEY TO THE ON POSTION ALL THE WAY TO THE END JUST BEFORE THE POINT WHERE YOU ACTUALLY START.if your jeep cranks most likey its not your starter this is how ive been turning my jeep on, anyone knows the how can i fix this problem to make it start regular from the key cylinder lol
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:48 PM   #38
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you can try giving your starter direct power by boosting your own jeep, you get jumper cables and on one side of the cables you put the red postive on the postive terminal on the battery ,the black negative on the negative terminal of the battery ,then on the other end of the cables you hook up the ground black negative wire to apart of your jeep thats metal, most likey frame parts then the red postive apply it to your starter theres like three bolts on the starter do not put it on the negative this will burn your wire out!, just switch between the two bolts ,when applying it all you want to do is put the red wire on the bolt for one good crank then you take it off and hit the other bolt ,so the starter stops spinning then repeat the process till it turns on.IMPORTANT YOU MUST HAVE YOUR JEEP ON ,PUT THE KEY TO THE ON POSTION ALL THE WAY TO THE END JUST BEFORE THE POINT WHERE YOU ACTUALLY START.if your jeep cranks most likey its not your starter this is how ive been turning my jeep on, anyone knows the how can i fix this problem to make it start regular from the key cylinder lol
Ignition switch, top of the column under the dash.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:50 PM   #39
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Well I have been wrenching for 30+ years myself.
I had rebuilt, & even brand new starters & alternators that were bad.

Advance auto & auto zone can bench test your starter for free. Cant beat free!

While the guy testing it may not have a clue, it's worth a try.

Now that is my advice, if the original problem actually was the starter.

It could still have been the battery. A "Headlights on, while trying to start" test
would be the first thing I'd try. Then a jumpstart.

Failing these, I'd take a look at the ignition switch located on top of the steering column, under the dash.
Sorry 'bout that, not the starer switch, but the ignition switch!
Beer is clouding my memory!!!
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:51 PM   #40
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i knew what you meant
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:53 PM   #41
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nope i replaced it.and it acutaully turned on a couple of times after that but now it wont even turn on.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:56 PM   #42
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nope i replaced it.and it acutaully turned on a couple of times after that but now it wont even turn on.
Did you try re-adjusting the switch? It usually has a small amount of adjustment via slotted bolt holes. you could take the switch off, & test it by using a screwdriver to move it through all the positions.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:22 PM   #43
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yup iam pretty sure its properly connected the only thing it does when i try to start is a clicking sound.and when i use the direct connect method with the starter stated above it works can it be the solenoid some one told me to check the voltage regulator ?
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:27 PM   #44
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yup iam pretty sure its properly connected the only thing it does when i try to start is a clicking sound.and when i use the direct connect method with the starter stated above it works can it be the solenoid some one told me to check the voltage regulator ?
I seriously doubt it's the voltage regulator, it doesn't have anything to do with starting.

I don't think the starter solenoid on the firewall is very expensive, if you can find one. While I'm not in favor of replacing any parts before they are known to be bad, if they are cheap it may save time & aggravation.

I would still manually test the ignition switch first though.
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:34 PM   #45
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new developments:

Got the multimeter out, tested power from solenoid to starter motor while cranking. Got .25 Volt, starter didn't work. Somebody mentioned before that if I get power to the motor from the solenoid while turning the key, and it still doesn't work, it's definitely a bad starter. So I took it off and exchanged it at schucks.

Put new one on, now I'm having the same problem with it. I get power to the motor from the solenoid (about .5 Volt this time), and now there's a clicking sound from the starter when someone tries to crank (still get a brief, deep, hum from somewhere while crankingl; the click, which comes from the starter specifically, is new), but it won't turn over.

So I'm thinking the odds against getting two bad starters in a row should be pretty high . . . but then again it's Schucks. But before I pull this one off and take it back too, can anyone think of any other reason I'd get power through the solenoid-to-motor cord when cranking, but it still wouldn't fire?
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:44 PM   #46
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new developments:

Got the multimeter out, tested power from solenoid to starter motor while cranking. Got .25 Volt, starter didn't work. Somebody mentioned before that if I get power to the motor from the solenoid while turning the key, and it still doesn't work, it's definitely a bad starter. So I took it off and exchanged it at schucks.

Put new one on, now I'm having the same problem with it. I get power to the motor from the solenoid (about .5 Volt this time), and now there's a clicking sound from the starter when someone tries to crank (still get a brief, deep, hum from somewhere while crankingl; the click, which comes from the starter specifically, is new), but it won't turn over.

So I'm thinking the odds against getting two bad starters in a row should be pretty high . . . but then again it's Schucks. But before I pull this one off and take it back too, can anyone think of any other reason I'd get power through the solenoid-to-motor cord when cranking, but it still wouldn't fire?
Try jump starting it, Sounds like low battery amperage to me.

I drove a wrecker for AAA for three years. Clicking is usually from not enough juice!

Hook up the cables, & let it charge up for at least 10-15 minutes before trying it.

Make sure there is no other drain on the battery, IE: doors closed, lights off, & no radio!
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:55 PM   #47
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Try jump starting it, Sounds like low battery amperage to me.

I drove a wrecker for AAA for three years. Clicking is usually from not enough juice!

Hook up the cables, & let it charge up for at least 10-15 minutes before trying it.

Make sure there is no other drain on the battery, IE: doors closed, lights off, & no radio!
When I tested the battery earlier today with the voltmeter, it showed a good 12.5 volts. Should I still give a jump a try?
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:10 PM   #48
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Also my lights seem full bright (emphasis on 'seem').

I'd have to call somebody to get a jump, but I'll do it if you think it's worthwhile.
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:21 AM   #49
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When I tested the battery earlier today with the voltmeter, it showed a good 12.5 volts. Should I still give a jump a try?
Voltage is only half the story, cranking amps are the other half.

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Also my lights seem full bright (emphasis on 'seem').

I'd have to call somebody to get a jump, but I'll do it if you think it's worthwhile.
The question is what happens to the headlights, when you are cranking the starter. (or trying to crank it) If the headlights go really dim, then the battery isn't up to snuff.

Trust me, I've been following you plight. You need to try a jump at this point, prolly much sooner.
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:14 AM   #50
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wow, two pages just to get a starter going and still no idea. Put parking brake on, chock wheel, and out of gear. Disconnect S terminal at starter. using a screwdriver jump the Batt and S terminals. if its still doing nothing your problem is battery, battery cable,or grounds. If engine cranks your problem is im S-wire or ignition switch.

also look a few posts up what yjkpower posted about jumper cables.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:19 AM   #51
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half a volt to the starter is not power. you need close to 12, 9 and 10 volts will give you some cranking, but what you are saying is no power to the starter.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:18 AM   #52
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Lights don't dim when I crank. Some people have recommended whacking the clicking solenoid with a hammer, then starting?

Heading out today; looking forward to a careful reading of new posts, and additional troubleshooting tonight ;-)
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:04 PM   #53
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Any chance the starter was not checked for clearance on the teeth when it was installed? Could be bound up on the fly wheel. Not usually the problem but has happened. Im stll betting on a bad started with Dave.
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:04 PM   #54
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Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

Cranking and firing now.

Second starter was all good. Got a second pair of eyes under the hood today, and found a loose pair of wires right at the pos battery terminal.

All that time I spent checking connections at the starter, and on the route from the batt to the starter - with both the bad starter and the good one I got yesterday - and it turned out to be that simple. Starts great now (I shouldn't jinx myself . . . started great . . . I'm gonna go torque the bolts right now and see if it starts a second time ).

I just want to give a big fat thank you to everyone who commented with advice and support. Sucks not to know what's up with your car when it's not working, but thanks to this forum, I know a lot more about my car now than I did a few days ago.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:43 PM   #55
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good to hear, glad you learned something. gotta cover the basics first definately. very common for that to happen to. i had to go back and reread i can't believe that didn't come up.

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