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Old 09-03-2009, 09:40 AM   #1
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Replacing Rear Main Seal

1993 inline 6 4.0 YJ
any pointers or advice?
Im going to be dropping the transmission and attmepting all this this weekend (after the football game of course! Sorry BIG UT VOLS fan here). Anyway, I know about having to drop the transmission or pull the motor so with my jeep having about a 5 in lift I just figure it will be easier to pull the tranny. HOWEVER, I have NEVER attempted this before, any pointers or helpful info that would be of help???

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Old 09-03-2009, 10:40 AM   #2
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You should not need to pull the enging or trans. I have attached an instruction I found when looking for info on replacing mine. Good luck.

Jeff


Answer
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS - REAR
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-free operation.

REMOVAL
Remove transmission inspection cover.
Remove oil pan. Refer to procedure in this section.
Remove main bearing cap brace.
Remove rear main bearing cap (No.7)
Push upper seal out of the groove. Ensure that the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
Remove lower half of the seal from the bearing cap.
INSTALLATION
Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft until it is clean.
Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
Coat lip of the seal with engine oil.
Carefully position the upper seal into the groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces toward the front of the engine.
Place the lower half of the seal into bearing cap (No.7) Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Apply Mopar® Gasket Maker sealer on both sides of cylinder block as shown in Location of Sealer The dab of sealer should be 3 mm (0.125 in.) in diameter.
Position the lower seal into the bearing cap recess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush with the cylinder block pan rail.
Apply Mopar® Gasket Maker on the rear bearing cap Location of Sealer The bead should be 2.3 mm (0.09 in.) in diameter. DO NOT apply sealer to the lip of the seal
Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT strike the cap more than twice for proper engagement.
Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install the main bearing cap brace. Tighten nuts to 47 N·m (35 ft. lbs.)
Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan. Tighten 1/4 - 20 screws to 14 N·m (120 in. lbs.) Tighten 5/16 - 18 screws to 18 N·m (156 in. lbs.)
Install transmission inspection cover.

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Old 09-03-2009, 11:12 AM   #3
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rear main is serviced by removing the engine oil pan.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:00 PM   #4
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Much thanks for both replies!
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:13 AM   #5
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Phew!! I'm glad they caught you before you started. Quick comment..... When you roll the new upper half of the seal in it helps to have someone roll the engine over by hand as you roll it into place. There will be resistance from the seal as you roll it. Make sure you tourqe that main cap when your done. HAve fun!
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlrrob1000 View Post
Phew!! I'm glad they caught you before you started. Quick comment..... When you roll the new upper half of the seal in it helps to have someone roll the engine over by hand as you roll it into place. There will be resistance from the seal as you roll it. Make sure you tourqe that main cap when your done. HAve fun!
Yea ME TOO! lol, Not exactly sure what you mean by have someone roll the engine over by hand tho.
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:28 PM   #7
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When I said roll the engine over by hand I meant rotate the engine in the direction that you are rolling the seal. Usually this is done from the front of the engine on the vibration dampner (aka harmonic balancer) bolt. If you remove the spark plugs it turns easier. This just makes it easier to roll the seal half into place.

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