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Old 02-17-2008, 09:06 PM   #1
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Shifting trouble

Recently I had my engine overhauled. the engine was rebuilt, had a new clutch put in, but now I have been having some trouble getting into gear. Sometimes it drives where I have to push the clutch all the way down and when I lift up just a hair it's engaging. Other times I don't have to push all the way down to shift and when I let back off the clutch I have to lift up a bit for it to engage and it's loose as if it's been worn / borken in. Sometimes I can;t get it to shift and have to shut it off to get it out of gear and when I start with the clutch pushed in it's still in gear and starts to roll. Help!!

Any ideas please,

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Old 02-18-2008, 01:32 PM   #2
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You may have air in the hydraulic system.

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Old 02-18-2008, 11:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reevesdieselyj View Post
You may have air in the hydraulic system.
x2

haha you said borken!
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:47 PM   #4
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yup, sounds like some sort of hydraulic issue to me. i'd bleed it or buy a new master cylinder/ slave cylinder. which comes one piece- prefilled from mopar, at least mine was like that. good luck
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Old 02-20-2008, 10:36 AM   #5
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Thanks, I'll give it a shot and let you know. This morning I started it up with the clutch pushed in and as soon as I released the emergency break, it started going.
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Old 02-21-2008, 11:11 PM   #6
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you mean you didnt let off the clutch at all and it started going? LOL thats crazy man. yea, thats gotta be something hydraulic.
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:03 AM   #7
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ok try this, pump it few times all the way and then push it all the way and hold it. Next put it in gear but DO NOT RELEASE the clutch. See if it starts rolling after few seconds. If it does, then you will need new seals or whatever cups they are called on the master cylinder.

When they get worn out or torn, you will push the clutch pedal in which will reise pressure to press the clutch. Well when they are torn they will allow liquid to go back so it will act as if you're slowly releasing the clutch pedal.

If the leak is too big, you will press the clutch pedal but the high pressure will force the fluid back and it will catch as soon as you put it in gear and continue gradually catching more and more.
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Old 02-23-2008, 01:10 AM   #8
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Thanks! I am working on this problem, along with my idle and desperate need for a new rear end. I found a ford 8.8 to put in, it's just a matter of getting a shop to put it in at a decent price. I'd do it myslef, but it requires welding and such, were incompetant when it comes to welding
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:03 PM   #9
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I checked the clutch fluid under the hood and it was full. It seems that if I pump the clutch a second time it will shift then. Any further ideas? How hard is it to change a master cylinder myself, do I have to drop the tranny and how much would/ should a shop charge? Thanks for the help, I have had one problem after another recently after having to drop $4k to have my original engine rebuilt and I am tapped out on cash!
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:17 PM   #10
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agree with triple pump it for a few min. drive it around the block. shut it off let it cool. repeat.
had a YJ and had to do this. It was really soft feeling for a few days but it got better.
Good luck
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:30 PM   #11
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Kind of sounds like a synchronizer is bad. Manual Trannys aren't that hard to pull out and work on compared to automatics.
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:19 PM   #12
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so what did you figure out what was bad?
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:46 PM   #13
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YOu never answered my question. Pump the clutch few times and put it in 1st gear and just hold it there but do not release the clutch so keep it pressed in.. It should not move. Hold it for a minute or so.. does it start going on its own while you are holding the clutch?
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:32 PM   #14
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When I first get in it, I pump the clutch a couple times and it shifts smoothly, it has calmed down since I have started doing this and is shifting a bit better. No more trying to start it and it starts moving, but there is the occaisional slowing down and downshifting when it won't come out of gear and then I pump the clutch twice and it comes right out. Still, don't know what to try and fix
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Old 02-29-2008, 04:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
YOu never answered my question. Pump the clutch few times and put it in 1st gear and just hold it there but do not release the clutch so keep it pressed in.. It should not move. Hold it for a minute or so.. does it start going on its own while you are holding the clutch?
Meaning the jeep should not move forward.

(do this on a flat ground so you are not holding the brakes or the hand brake.)
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:37 PM   #16
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Just rebuilt my clutch master cylinder ($35 from oriellys)
it took about 2 hours to do the whole rebuild.
mine was doing exactly what you said yours is doing. I thought that i would start with the cheaper of the two repairs (master cylinder or slave cylinder)
hardest part was bleeding it. well maybe getting 20 years of grime out of the cylinder.

i say do the rebuild and if it comes back change your slave cylinder and lines.
my 2 pennies.

let us know what ya do.
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:39 AM   #17
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How did you rebuild it? Anyone with some how to guides, or pic's, please!

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Old 03-01-2008, 02:08 PM   #18
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Disconnect the clutch peddle from the connection rod by removing the cotter pin and washer (you have to get up under the dash).

Remove the line that comes out from the top of the clutch master cylinder (it doesn't leak to much fluid).

Remove the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the fire wall.

Once you have it out, clean the grime that is on it. There is a snap ring where the connecting rod goes into the cylinder. You dont have to be to careful with this, there is a new one in the rebuild kit. Once its removed, pull the rod out, it will have a "washer" on it, and the old rubber boot. Discard the old boot. Clean the rod and washer, and spray with wd40 (I love this stuff).
Now pull the "plunger assy" out, It has a spring attached to it, and trow it away. Clean the inside of you master cylinder out, real good.

The rebuild kit has anew "plunger assy". I lubed my up first with some wd40, just to get the seal coated. Push the "plunger assy" in past where the snap ring goes. Place the connecting rod with the washer on top of the "plunger assy" and install the snap ring over the washer.

Remount the cylinder to the firewall. Reconnect the rod to the clutch peddle. reinstall the line. And start the bleeds.

Hope this helps.
Sorry no pictures.

oh yeah, was driving mine around today with no more trying to force it in and out of gear.

andy
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:45 PM   #19
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just make sure once you're done you use something else as an actual lubricant than wd40 as that stuff tends to evaporate after a day or two and just leave behind small tiny layer of gummy junk.

i work in a machine shop and we spray the machines every night and in the mourning you just see a very thick (viscosity) and thin (dept) layer of wd 40..
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:27 PM   #20
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if it is a new clutch some manufacturers have had faulty slaves (they leak air into the system) most will replace the part for free but youll have to eat labor
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:59 PM   #21
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noticing you have a 95 YJ, you should have an external slave cylinder. these are easy to replace, 10 mins at the most. the slave cylinder connects to the drivers side of the tranny, which is connected to a hydraulic line which is connected to the master cyl, which is connected to the pedal. if this is your scenario, go to the dodge-jeep dealer and pick one up. if it is a hydraulic issue you are having, this should knock it out. i'm no expert on these, but ive tinkered with these one piece slave/master cyls a few times, and id be happy to answer questions

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