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Old 03-27-2012, 09:40 PM   #1
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: East of Gratiot, West of Zanesville, Ohio
Posts: 160
Skid Plate Bolts- Chapter 2

I'm trying to get the skid pan off my '95 YJ so I can rebuild the tranny & TC. They were stuck like polar bear $h1t. I drilled small holes in the frame and sprayed PB Blaster into the frame onto the captive nuts. I've also been using heat (acetylene torch) and heating the bolt heads until they're red then letting them cool a little and hitting them with the impact wrench. No movement, not one degree. I got the middle one out on the passenger side, the other 5 wouldn't budge. Tonight I said to hell with it. I put a ratchet inside a piece of pipe about 6 feet long and just started crankin'. They all came out except one. The captive nut let go and it just turns inside the frame. So I torched it off, and the plan is to drill it out and weld a stud in it's place. Does that sound like a good solution? I'm just happy most of them came out OK.

Illegitimi non carborundum
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:21 PM   #2
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tampa
Posts: 273
Midway through the paragraph, I'm saying to myself,"why doesn't he just put a long pipe on a breaker bar? They WILL break loose." Good to see you tried it, and it worked, except for one. I've learned that taking apart a rusty Jeep (oxymoron?) forces you to use every trick in the book.

Almost there: '89 YJ with: 390 CID(6.4L) Dodge V8/727 auto/NP231, SOA+2", Hi steer D44 & 14 Bolt w/4.56's, Detroits, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #3
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 717
this raises a question

since it took that much torque to break them loose, and they didn't twist off, then it seems like where they are really binding is between the head and the skid plate, not the threads or the rusted bolt/nut joint.

That would lend itself to the Farmer's Impact Wrench. Put a very heavy duty box end on it, use the pipe and smack the head of the bolt while putting the torque to it.
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