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Old 09-24-2013, 09:12 AM   #1
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Slave Cylinder

So..........

I pulled the transmission this weekend to change my rear main seal. Everything went well besides the giant pain in the rear of pulling and putting the trans back in with no trans jack. So upon reassembly I hook up all my lines and wires, throw fluid in the motor, t-case, trans, and clutch. I go to bleed the clutch and low and behold it appears the bleeder is corroded. Does anyone have any tips for breaking this free without breaking the line? I really, really don't want to drop this trans until I'm ready to motor swap next year. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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1993 YJ 2.5, AX5

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Old 09-24-2013, 10:59 AM   #2
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Isn't the bleeder part of the new slave? How did it corrode so fast? I'm just going by my own changing but I thought they were the same slaves

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Old 09-24-2013, 11:27 AM   #3
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Isn't the bleeder part of the new slave? How did it corrode so fast? I'm just going by my own changing but I thought they were the same slaves
I didn't change the slave when I pulled the transmission just the rear main seal
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:32 PM   #4
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:45 PM   #5
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If it is internal and like my old one it can be done carefully so you don't upset the line inside.

The bleed nipple was like a 1/4 inch wrench. Then there was another fitting that you can put a wrench on to hold the line tight and turn. Use flare nut wrenches if possible. If not on the bleed nipple use a box end wrench.

You may need to soak it in PB Blaster for a few hours to help out.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:53 PM   #6
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If it is internal and like my old one it can be done carefully so you don't upset the line inside.

The bleed nipple was like a 1/4 inch wrench. Then there was another fitting that you can put a wrench on to hold the line tight and turn. Use flare nut wrenches if possible. If not on the bleed nipple use a box end wrench.

You may need to soak it in PB Blaster for a few hours to help out.
Joker, thanks for the info, wish me luck!
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:36 PM   #7
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Ok one other problem, the quick disconnect no longer wants to stay connected.......any thoughts on this one?
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:48 PM   #8
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Affirmative, Chief

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerchief462 View Post
If it is internal and like my old one it can be done carefully so you don't upset the line inside.

The bleed nipple was like a 1/4 inch wrench. Then there was another fitting that you can put a wrench on to hold the line tight and turn. Use flare nut wrenches if possible. If not on the bleed nipple use a box end wrench.

You may need to soak it in PB Blaster for a few hours to help out.
I can confirm bleed nip is 1/4". I've had an on-again/off-again relationship with all things clutch/master/slave related for the last month or so. Use a boxed end 1/4" and a pair of vice grips and break that little bastard loose. Good luck.

I just changed out the slave on my 91 2.5L last week and didn't use a transmission jack either. Just curious, how did you remove the tranny w/o a jack? Did you drop the skid plate and all?
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:03 PM   #9
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I can confirm bleed nip is 1/4". I've had an on-again/off-again relationship with all things clutch/master/slave related for the last month or so. Use a boxed end 1/4" and a pair of vice grips and break that little bastard loose. Good luck.

I just changed out the slave on my 91 2.5L last week and didn't use a transmission jack either. Just curious, how did you remove the tranny w/o a jack? Did you drop the skid plate and all?
yep dropped the skid plate, tcase, drive shafts etc, and propped that heavy mofo on a dolly with 2x4 and a tire. It was rigged all to hell
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:15 PM   #10
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I did mine last weekend and I found that box end wrench on the large fitting and a socket over the leeder screw worked best cause if your not carefull the bleader screw strips easily. Heres a tip for changing the slave if you need to. I didnt have a tranny jack either but I didnt drop the whole tranny. I put ratchet straps at the bell and tail of the tranny and over the frame rails. I simply unbolted everything, slid it back, installed the new slave and married it back together. It worked really well for me.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #11
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I did mine last weekend and I found that box end wrench on the large fitting and a socket over the leeder screw worked best cause if your not carefull the bleader screw strips easily. Heres a tip for changing the slave if you need to. I didnt have a tranny jack either but I didnt drop the whole tranny. I put ratchet straps at the bell and tail of the tranny and over the frame rails. I simply unbolted everything, slid it back, installed the new slave and married it back together. It worked really well for me.
I appreciate the advice in case I need to get back in there. But does anyone have any idea about the quick disconnect that wont reconnect?
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #12
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I had to drop my trans last april because I broke the bleeder loose without holding the line with another wrench. I twisted the line and broke the seal at the cylinder. HOLD THE LINE WITH A WRENCH!! Autozone has a transmission jack adapter to fit a normal jack for $45, well worth it, I bought one.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #13
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Make sure the little washer in the quick disconect is straight, I took it out and put it on the line and then hooked up the QD.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:31 PM   #14
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yep dropped the skid plate, tcase, drive shafts etc, and propped that heavy mofo on a dolly with 2x4 and a tire. It was rigged all to hell

Hahahaha!!!!! Dude, we oughta start a club 'cause "Rigged all to hell" is a very accurate description of the way I went about it also. I took an eight foot 4x4, laid it long ways across the roll bar to the top of the windshield and ran a ratchet strap down around the tranny. I could ratchet it up enough to slide the tranny back so I didn't have to drop the skid plate, just took off the drive shafts. Actually made it pretty easy to line it all back up. It was rednecked up man. But hey, my neighbors expect nothing less from "The guy with the Jeep".
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:28 PM   #15
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Okay,

I'm posting this picture because it doesn't look right however appears to work. The plastic "washer" is off the line and the line is holding pressure. If I pull the washer back into the line it snaps into place BUT when I pump the clutch pedal it breaks the line free. Is this correct? I should have paid more attention when my buddy disconnected this thing. I just feel like there should be more to it.

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Old 09-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #16
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:31 AM   #17
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:08 AM   #18
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If they have to much air in the system when you pump it will blow th eline off becasue air doesnt react same as fluid. I have even seen them blow line off on side of slave inside bell housing. Once you get bleeder free put hose on it and run to small jar with break fluid in it. Pour fluid from top and pump until you push all the air out and have fluid coming out bleeder leave your small hose in bottle so when you let off it isnt sucking air back in. Bleed until you get good pedal.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:39 AM   #19
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Pic's too small to see what's up... But, if it's working I wouldn't try and fix it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #20
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Finally got it all huttoned up and the clutch is.soft. I definately need to bleed but the valve is still seized. Any ideas anyone?


Sorry for spelling typing from phone
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:15 PM   #21
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Liberal amounts of PB Blaster for a few days several times a day. To break mine loose I had to use some vice grips and turn it out. You can get an assortment of bleeders off the shelf at your parts house.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:37 PM   #22
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I have in the past used a small torch to heat up bleeders. Just enough to break it loose and not enough to damage seals. Heat is your friend!!
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:16 PM   #23
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My quick disconnect line did the same. I replaced the stock line with a braided one from advance adapters. If you have more than 6 inches of lift you will need the extension. Only hard part is if you have a 93 (like me) you will need to flare a nut onto the pressure line from the slave. Also with the nature of internal slave cylinders, this can be tight and there's not much line to work with. The line then screws directly to the slave and I feel a little better knowing my line is secured with threads instead of a plastic clip..
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:37 PM   #24
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PB Blaster is lightweight CRAP compared to KROIL....... it has saved my butt for over 30 years. If you do not have any, ask any industrial mechanic or you can order HERE.....cannot be bought retail......

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Old 10-01-2013, 10:02 AM   #25
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got it all buttoned up last night. Thanks guys

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