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Old 11-27-2013, 07:50 PM   #1
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slave cylinder broke in bellhousing

I recently replaced my slave cylinder on my ax15 on my 89 yj with a 4.0 swap out of a 96 xj, its an external slave. when i pulled the slave cylinder out it was missing the rod and rubber boot and i fear they have fallen into the bell housing because i cannot fully depress the clutch without hearing a scraping sound from the bellhousing, is there any way other than pulling the trans to figure out if this is the case? the reason i replaced the slave was because my clutch went to the floor and it was leaking, and once i removed it it was obviously broken.
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Old 11-27-2013, 07:54 PM   #2
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There is an inspection plate you can drop. It bolts between the bottom of the motor and bottom of the trans.

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Old 11-27-2013, 08:03 PM   #3
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I have tried removing it, what bolts do i need to take out ive removed 2 and the starter and it still wont come out
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:06 PM   #4
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It should be two at the bottom and one half way up the trans one on each side. Also check to make sure the trans is not pinching it between the engine and the bellhousing.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:18 PM   #5
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ok ive tried that and it wont work, ive also looked through the starter hole while someone pushes the clutch and i can see that it wont fully engage, because i think its being blocked by what ever debris is in there. any ideas?
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #6
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Only the 2.5l tranny's have the inspection plate, you might have to pull the tranny back far enough to see your problem
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:39 PM   #7
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You won't be able to see it from the starter hole. The clutch assembly and the main gear box/ trans shaft is blocking the CMC side of the bellhousing. Worst case scenario you will have to drop the trans to get that piece out and fix whats broken.

You might want to take the CMC down and put a screw driver in the bell housing and apply some pressure to the clutch fork that the CMC would push. If it moves easily you have other issues. If it's firm with little play then you can guess that the rest is all together good.
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:02 PM   #8
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ok so ive tinkered with it today and have consulted some other people who have owned/worked on jeeps and have decided to remove the transmission and see what exactly the problem is. Ive done some research and it doesnt seem all that difficult, ive already removed the bell housing bolts and supported the engine/transmission. from this point i just disconnect the shifters and driveshafts and drop it out? correct? are there any other connections? like linkages and eletrical connectors that i need to worry about?
thanks!!
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:28 AM   #9
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Shifters
Front and rear driveshafts
Vacuum lines in Tcase
Speedometer on Tcase
Reverse light switch on right side of trans
Air vent on Tcase
CSC
Transfer case skid plate


And get someone to help, the trans and Tcase combo is fairly heavy for its size. And make sure it comes back as straight as possible until the trans main shaft has freed itself from the engine an flywheel clutch assemblies.
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Old 11-29-2013, 02:10 PM   #10
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Ok so I dropped the transmission and t case with the help of some friends and it came out without a problem. And then I found my problem....... The throw out bearing had completely failed and wasn't even attached to the fork anymore. So now I know what I need. But do u guys think I should replace the clutch while I have it out? I took pics that I'll put up later
Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2013, 03:22 PM   #11
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Not unless it damaged the pressure plate. The disc is safe hidden under pressure plate.

No if you scalded it a little( hot) you may wan't to take a look.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #12
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It's fairly cheap to replace everything for the time it takes to remove the tranny
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Old 11-30-2013, 02:23 PM   #13
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Ok so I've decided to go ahead and replace it, any good clutch kits to look for? I've heard good things about the luk kit?
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Old 11-30-2013, 03:54 PM   #14
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Stay away from duralast. Mine just broke after 2 months.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:59 PM   #15
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Luk or Centerforce. Ask the parts guy who makes the kit. Sometimes they have premium kit. Just have to ask.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:24 PM   #16
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Ok i got the luk kit which should be here soon, it includes a pilot bearing, what is the best was to replace it? I have looked at the haynes manual and it says a puller hammer or pack lots of grease behind the bearing then force it out by inserting a rod the same size as the interior of the bearing? also i plan to change transmission fluid with 10w30 synthetic? and transfer case with atf4? does this seem correct?
thanks again for all the help, i dont know where i would be without this forum
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjoye1300 View Post
Ok i got the luk kit which should be here soon, it includes a pilot bearing, what is the best was to replace it? I have looked at the haynes manual and it says a puller hammer or pack lots of grease behind the bearing then force it out by inserting a rod the same size as the interior of the bearing? also i plan to change transmission fluid with 10w30 synthetic? and transfer case with atf4? does this seem correct?
thanks again for all the help, i dont know where i would be without this forum
Yes to all, and while I use the slide hammer to remove the pilot bearing, I'd stay away from packing grease and use bread instead if I were you because packing in bread is far less messy, and is much cheaper and easier than dicking around with a slide hammer if you're not familiar with one. I'm sure someone has done and knows the bread method too so I guess search it up on google.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:01 PM   #18
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Ok yes I know of the bread meathod, I'll try that instead. And how do I replace the boot on the top of the shift tower? Can figure out how to disassemble the shifter assembly? And there is a bushing/washer in the bottom if the shift tower correct?
Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:26 PM   #19
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I want to say you just unscrew the ball on the shifter and slide the new one on and there is an inner bushing under the main boot, but I don't understand what you're talking about too well....
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:35 PM   #20
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I've seen the grease method. I just pulled my flywheel and pounded it out with a broken broom handle. Makes the perfect sized dowel. Then you can get it resurfaced at the same time, and your rear main seal if its a 2.5!
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:22 PM   #21
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Well my problems continue, i replaced the clutch and reinstalled the transmission and all associated parts but now it wont start. i checked and i seem to have no spark are there any plugs or sensors down under the jeep that i might have messed with? i checked the o2 sensors and all the vacume lines and everything seems to be fine. the only thing that im not sure on is the crankshaft positioning sensor, could this keep it from starting?
Thanks!!
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:08 PM   #22
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Yes COS in the bell housing 10 o'clock. Check it's installed correctly and the connection is good.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:09 PM   #23
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Absolutely. That's your issue. It either didn't get plugged back in, or got damaged when you were reinstalling.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:23 PM   #24
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Ya this might be the problem my crank shaft positioning sensor has the wires torn off and I can't find the connector, where does the connector run from to the sensor?
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:45 PM   #25
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Over the top of the bell housing up toward the passenger side. It's $45 to replace. Looks like you might be going that route.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:24 PM   #26
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Ok i got a new one but havent installed it, i will tonight. But i guess i should ask could it run without the sensor, cause if it cant then i know this is def the problem?
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:33 PM   #27
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No. You won't get spark. The ecm doesn't know the jeep is cranking.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:26 PM   #28
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ok so i replaced it and it started right up and all seemed well, i put it in 1st and let off the clutch and it started moving. so im like great its fixed im done and then i try it again and my rear u joint bolts snap........ just great. my question now is i have a dana 35 with the 3.5 in yoke and i have the u style bolts on my u joint. where can i get thease and what u joint should i get ? from what ive researched i need a 1310 size u joint and the only u joint bolts i can find are for a dana 30 will those fit the dana 35 yoke?
Thanks!!
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:31 PM   #29
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Napa sells the straps and the u bolts. Depending on what you have. I have both kinds on mine. They're only like $9. And they had them both in stock.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:32 PM   #30
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As far as size I'd just match it up. My gut is telling me the Dana 30 joints are smaller. Been a while.

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