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Old 06-06-2014, 09:34 PM   #1
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Slip yoke eliminator drive shaft.

I am having my transmission and my transfer case worked on. Thinking about throwing an advance adapters slip yoke and tom woods drive shaft in at the same time. I currently have a 4 inch lift, if I ever go soa will I have to buy another drive shaft? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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Old 06-06-2014, 11:37 PM   #2
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It all dependes on ride height when your done. Same height same shaft.

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Old 06-07-2014, 12:01 AM   #3
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Like Nubby said, it all depends on ride height. If you go SOA and back to stock springs then you will be close to the same. But if you just put the lift springs on top of the axle, then your lift is going to be around 9.5-10". 4" lift springs plus 5.5-6" of SOA lift. And the rear shaft will be way too short for that. You could order a TW shaft with a long slip yoke, then you would be safe, you can get them to build you a custom shaft with long slip yoke to be short enough for the 4" lift but still able to expand to much more travel.

I have an AA super short SYE with a TW shaft. They require you to measure from yoke to yoke for a custom shaft. Then build it for the correct travel. But I know that mine doesn't have the extension needed to swap from SUA to SOA.
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:44 PM   #4
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I plan on eliminating my transfer case drop, will that add any additional length to the drive shaft? Or is that done solely for vibration purposes?
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:33 PM   #5
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Once you eliminate the transfercase drop it will add to the distance between the transfercase and the rear yoke
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:06 PM   #6
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How would I go about measuring my drive shaft length then? Taking into consideration eliminating the tc drop?
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:52 PM   #7
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If I understant your question it should only take a few min to remove the tc drop and measure then put the drop back in.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:38 PM   #8
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May want to check the front one while your at it, and if your going to do any type of rock crawling sprung over carry spare u joints and a yoke for the rear as tho you will be breaking them with out a traction bar, went through one yoke, 4 u joints and a cardon u joint. So I had a new custom made rear drive shaft with a cardon u joint the size they put in a dump truck, all that and still installed the traction bar , should have put a traction bar in first. Live and learn, trying to keep ya from doing the same$$ mistake. A one inch lift on the motor mount will help on rear drive shaft angles if ya pull the t case drop out
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:08 PM   #9
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Once you do the SYE and CV rear shaft, you can eliminate the t-case drop.

In order to measure correctly for a rear shaft, get on Tom Woods website, www.4xshaft.com. and they have a page on correct measurement and how to do it.

It requires a measurement from the yoke on the SYE to the yoke on the rear end. In order to get this measurement correct, you have to have your lift done and the SYE installed.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0III0forlife View Post
Once you do the SYE and CV rear shaft, you can eliminate the t-case drop. In order to measure correctly for a rear shaft, get on Tom Woods website, www.4xshaft.com. and they have a page on correct measurement and how to do it. It requires a measurement from the yoke on the SYE to the yoke on the rear end. In order to get this measurement correct, you have to have your lift done and the SYE installed.
That you for that reply! I guess I way misunderstood how much work needed to be done. Judging by this picture it looks like the cv is a fixed yoke to the transfer case output?


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The picture on the bottom is what my setup looks like now. The one above would be after if I'm reading it correctly. What do you need to do to turn the pumpkin upwards to get the proper angle needed? I apologize for sounding like I have no clue what I'm talking about. This is a new chapter for me on my jeep.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:47 AM   #11
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When you do an SOA, you have to weld on new spring pads. just aim your pinion at the t-case output, minus 3 degrees of angle, and you should be fairly close. Then tack the pads into place. I have done many SOA and only a few with a CV shaft for that matter. Usually just get an extended rear shaft with the standard slip yoke. Mine has a SYE and a CV, but technically it isn't needed. I did it because I wanted to build it now, for future flexing situations. If you extend the rear suspension too far with the standard slip yoke, it can come out of the back of the t-case. This wont happen under normal wheeling, more like rock crawling.

I will tell you that going SOA will require installing a traction bar to compensate for spring wrap. Or atleast it should be installed. Will save you from breaking u-joints on the rear shaft or the yoke on the rear pinion.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:32 PM   #12
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Planning on staying sua for a while. How would you change the angle of the of the rear axel? Is it necessary?
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:54 PM   #13
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Any of your local 4 wheel parts type shops will have wedges. They range from 2 degrees on up and go between the springs and the axles. (Thick part to the front) Figure the angle you need then get a wedge 2 to 3 degrees less. Thicker wedges may need a new longer centering pin in the springs. Just remember to clamp the springs together well before pulling out the old centering pin.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:57 PM   #14
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Look again at the angles on the tom wood website and compare to yours and that will show if you need wedges.

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