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Old 05-08-2013, 04:25 PM   #1
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Smoking HOT...

When i got home today, i realized my drivers side back wheel drum was smoking and so hot I couldn't touch it. Could it be my break pads are shot or is it something else? I'm going to try and get it apart tonight to look at it. Cause i def don't want it bursting into flames driving to work in the am

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Old 05-08-2013, 04:33 PM   #2
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When i got home today, i realized my drivers side back wheel drum was smoking and so hot I couldn't touch it. Could it be my break pads are shot or is it something else? I'm going to try and get it apart tonight to look at it. Cause i def don't want it bursting into flames driving to work in the am
Did you leave your emergency brake on?

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Old 05-08-2013, 04:33 PM   #3
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Make sure that he e brake isn't stuck on. Also check to see if the brake cylinder is collapsing while you are not touch the brakes. And depending on how long they have been dragging he shoes may be burnt.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:37 PM   #4
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I did check the E brake and it seems to be fine and the other side isn't getting hot. After taking the tire off, here is what i seen. I did notice that the who spindle (the round part with the lugs, not sure if thats what it is called haha) has about 1/4 inch play to it, in and out. Even when i put the tire back on, i could move it in and out about 1/4 inch or so. Not sure if that's normal or not.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #5
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Also, for the time being, which line runs to that break drum? Since i probably won't really be able to do anything till the weekend, I figured i could try tapping the line off with a steel plug until i get a chance to dig deeper on it without it running so hot.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:00 PM   #6
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As for the in and out movement of the shafts, that is normal if you have the factory LSD rearend, mine has done it for almost 21 years. Can you turn the rear wheel when the drum is on? Kinks in the hose can keep the cylinder from releasing. Instead of plugging a line, could you open up the star adjuster so the shoes won't grab?
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #7
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When i took it out of gear, i could turn the wheel with the tire on. I'll have to look at it better tomorrow. I'll see how it does on the way to work.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:46 AM   #8
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Well I got to work today and it was smoking hot again.,.. I'm going to try and plug off the line to see if that will get me to the weekend
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:40 AM   #9
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I would check out the wheel cylinder. Like was said, that could be the problem.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:58 AM   #10
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I had a buddy look at it and he seems to think its the rear axle bearing / seal. So I'm going to order the kit and try and replace that, if I can haha cause there is grease all over the inside of the drum, so it's def coming from somewhere
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:15 AM   #11
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Grease inside the drum? The only type of petroleum products that should or will ever end up there is brake fluid (from the brake cylinder) or gear oil (axle seal)
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:28 AM   #12
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It was def axel oil. I believe mine would be a dana 35, if I'm correct ? I'm going to order the seal and bearing tonight
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:21 PM   #13
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It was def axel oil. I believe mine would be a dana 35, if I'm correct ? I'm going to order the seal and bearing tonight
Before you order parts if you are unsure if its the D35 or if someone in the Jeeps life has replaced the rear axle take a pic and make sure. Post it here.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:41 PM   #14
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I'm pretty sure it's the Dana 35. It's the 10 bolt. I'll post a pic when I get a chance
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:25 PM   #15
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Here she is
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:58 PM   #16
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Yup u got it right hats the D35
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:51 AM   #17
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its your brakes man for sure... had it happen several times. With the Jeep, 86' Chevy Van, 99 Ranger, 78 Regal, 88 Mustang, lets say been there done that to many frikin times!

The best way to test is with the bleeder screw. Think of the physics behind the fluid system... If you put the wheel on and have resistance turning it, brakes are dragging. Now, if you crack open the bleeder screw and the pressure is released allowing it to spin freely then the problem is a pinched brake line to that wheel.

Now, if you crack open the bleeder screw and it does not release the pressure on that wheels brakes, then the wheel cylinder is locked up.

Make sense? Same goes for locked up calipers. If the bleeder releases it, its a kinked line. If opening the bleeder does nothing to release it then the caliper is locked up. Same principal.

Oh and as a side note, I was hoping this thread was about chicks with seeing "Smoking HOT" in the title lol.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:33 AM   #18
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its your brakes man for sure... had it happen several times. With the Jeep, 86' Chevy Van, 99 Ranger, 78 Regal, 88 Mustang, lets say been there done that to many frikin times!

The best way to test is with the bleeder screw. Think of the physics behind the fluid system... If you put the wheel on and have resistance turning it, brakes are dragging. Now, if you crack open the bleeder screw and the pressure is released allowing it to spin freely then the problem is a pinched brake line to that wheel.

Now, if you crack open the bleeder screw and it does not release the pressure on that wheels brakes, then the wheel cylinder is locked up.

Make sense? Same goes for locked up calipers. If the bleeder releases it, its a kinked line. If opening the bleeder does nothing to release it then the caliper is locked up. Same principal.

Oh and as a side note, I was hoping this thread was about chicks with seeing "Smoking HOT" in the title lol.
What he says plus, if you have no kniked line but the brakes release when the bleeder screw is opened it could be a defective master cylinder or proportioning valve.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:02 PM   #19
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It was def the bearing! My new one will be in tomorrow, then she will be back on the road hehe
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:07 PM   #20
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would a panic break situation cause the bearing issue?

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