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Old 01-03-2012, 08:18 PM   #1
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soa ,starting 1-6

Well here goes nothing. I ordered a rough country spring over axle perch kit, extended brake lines, sway bar quick disconnect, and drop pitman arm. I plan to order shocks after checking maximum and minimum amount of extension.

I've done a decent amount of research n read 1,000,000 posts, lol. I plan on doing a 1 inch transfer case drop. In some places I've read that the angle of the pinion and the transfer case are supposed to be close. I was thinking more along the lines of facing the rear upwards so it is almost perfectly inline with the driveshaft. Someone please correct this is wrong.
I did not order a track bar drop kit, wasn't sure they were totally necessary? If I need to order 1 when I order the shocks, can I get some opinions?

As far as I know the front pinion angle cant change very much, or it will throw out the caster geometry. Is there a recommended amount that you can rotate the pinion angle up words?

I plan on taking a lot of pictures and documenting what I'm doing, that way others can learn from my mistakes,lol.

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Old 01-03-2012, 09:16 PM   #2
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from what i learned, being i goofed mine up the first time........ do the front first. when you do the rear IF YOUR NOT GOING TO RUN A SYE lower the weight on the jeep onto the axle, and use a angle finder to determine the angle of the u joints......rotate the axe up til the rear ujoint is 1 to 2 degrees less than the ujoint by the transfer case. this is due to when driving the torque will slightly rotate it upwards and even them out. Im about to redo mine without a tcase drop........just make sure you do this with the weight of the jeep on the axle.

i did not have to change out my brakelines when i did mine, just ordered new perches and a drop pitman arm ( i think it is ) for the steering.

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Old 01-03-2012, 09:47 PM   #3
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I have a SOA set up on mine. Looking forward to seeing your write up.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:02 PM   #4
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Had to work today, got my kit from rc. Sprayed bolts down with blaster and got jack and jackstands ready for am. Kinda excited
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:05 PM   #5
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Had to work today, got my kit from rc. Sprayed bolts down with blaster and got jack and jackstands ready for am. Kinda excited
Also get the Sawzall and cut-off wheel ready, if things are really rusty under there. Good luck!
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:30 AM   #6
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Started at 9, now 1220.
Removed and tied up calipers, removed shocks, sway bar links, u bolts, and shackle bolts. And disconected driveshaft and vac line n electric plug for front rear. I will post pics in a bit, can't get them from my phone for some reason.
I've been struggling with pitman arm. Puller im using just isn't doing it.

Spent decent amount of time on u bolts. Im doing this with no air tools, so some things take a while.
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:29 PM   #7
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I could not get my pit-arm to budge either...had to put a relief cut in it with a dremmel tool and she popped right off then.
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richh789 View Post
Started at 9, now 1220.
Removed and tied up calipers, removed shocks, sway bar links, u bolts, and shackle bolts. And disconected driveshaft and vac line n electric plug for front rear. I will post pics in a bit, can't get them from my phone for some reason.
I've been struggling with pitman arm. Puller im using just isn't doing it.

Spent decent amount of time on u bolts. Im doing this with no air tools, so some things take a while.
ya the pitman arm is a pain. I broke one puller and bent another. I put the puller on, used a pull bar and got it really tight. Let it sit for an hour. Periodically beating on it with a hammer. Eventually it came off.
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:59 PM   #9
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Use an acytalyne torch and heat it up a bit, then use the puller. Works like a charm. Just make sure you are torching the arm, not the spline shaft obviously some of the heat is going to get to the shaft.
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:20 PM   #10
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I could not get my pit-arm to budge either...had to put a relief cut in it with a dremmel tool and she popped right off then.
Me too. After ruining two pullers, I cut a slot all the way through, without touching the sector shaft threads. A couple bangs with a 3 lb. sledge, and she was off.
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:41 PM   #11
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This is the space I had when I started, with 31 10.50
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:49 PM   #12
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Rented a puller from advance auto, came off instantly. Puller didn't have movable arms. Also worked good to remove drag link and swaybar links. Pics are hit or miss for some reason. Gonna try to get to a PC to show my progress
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:26 AM   #13
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on jackstands

Ready to go
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #14
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removed brakes

Hung caliper using scrap wire
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:32 AM   #15
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Removed bottom shock bolt and cut top one with cutoff wheel. Can't use them anyway
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:35 AM   #16
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This is the little tool that would have saved me a few hours. Advance rented an entire set for free.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:44 AM   #17
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This pic shows the side of the pumpkin, next to the stock perch. I ground down the edge of pumpkin to make room for the u bolt to fit now that they face up
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:05 AM   #18
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I put the axle on jack stand, changed fluid, and set the perches on bottom to zero degrees with angle finder. I held axle from rotating by sticking a jack under drag link. New perches were set to zero also. I set them both to zero so the stearing geometry stays the same.

If you rotate it upwards, the position of baljoints above each other changes, wich prob would really throw things off.

Once both sides were welded (thanks to my friend dean)I shot them with some paint. I would have liked to clean the axle and paint the entire thing. Unfortunetly I'm way to lazy, and couldn't be bothered. This yj is no show truck.

Please keep in mind that I have never done this before, nor am a mechanic. I build houses, lol. I'm also doing this in the driveway with basic hand tools, have no air tools. Just want the average Joe with some mech knowledge to know that he can do an soa on his (or her) jeep. Nor am I saying that's it is gonna work perfectly. When I'm done I will let u guys know what probs I have n how I fixed them
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
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This is the little tool that would have saved me a few hours. Advance rented an entire set for free.
That is the style puller I broke and then bent another
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #20
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Installed new brake line, and cut off track bar mount being it isn't used
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:31 PM   #21
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I made sure that I flipped the alignment pins on the leaf springs
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:37 PM   #22
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I had to fabricate some drop mounts for transfer case , because when I went to remove the bolts, the nuts that are welding in the frame broke loose. I took a channel that was 1 inch thick, and I drilled it to match the frame. It was really hard to drill, I ended up using several sizes of drill bits.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:42 PM   #23
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Then I tacked them in place, I'm going to have someone else weld it tomorrow.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:54 PM   #24
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I then put rear wheels on. Front axle is on jack stands because I'm waiting on rotors, but
tires are basically on he ground. Then I used a jack to rotate axel upwards. I basically pointed it at transfer case. Drive shaft seems like it isn't far enuf in, so before I have perches welded, I'm gonna change alignment pin to the front hole.

This is the amount of clearence now, and basically how it will look done. Gonna bring trailer home from work and haul it to my friends to have perches and new transfer case mount welded.

Almost forgot to add that I welded nuts to the top of c channel to recieve the bolt for transfer case mount
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:00 PM   #25
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:25 PM   #26
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Ordered shocks today, also switched the springs to the rearhole in perch,moving the axle forward. Was just worried about drive shaft not being in far enuf. Installed new brakes too. As soon as transfer case drop gets welded I'll let UK now whatprobs I have
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:59 AM   #27
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looking foward to see how this works out for you. A SOA is on my long list!
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:00 AM   #28
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I'd put the rear springs back in the center hole and hope it centers your tire in the opening. 98 percent of the time on a SOA you have to have the rear shaft lengthened.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:46 PM   #29
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Waiting on front brakes, shocks, and welding on trans support. Also getting drop track bar mt for front. What size is that torks? T 55? Bigger than t50, cause that's all I have

Tires not centered doesn't really bother me, gonna change flairs and cut front out more. Driveshaft is in ¼" farther than stock. On center hole it was ½" farther out than stock. Any issue with moving forward besides the odd looking placement of tire in wheel well?
Can't wait to try it. Hopefully no big issues
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:00 PM   #30
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You Decreased the wheelbase?

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