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Old 08-17-2012, 07:39 PM   #1
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Soft Top Question

I sold my hard top and bought a Bestop Supertop. I've never driven or ridden in a Jeep with a soft top so I'm trying to establish whats normal for noise and the top flapping around.

When I drive below 50 doesn't matter if the windows are up (full hard doors). Basically just a little noise from the top moving in the wind.

Above 50 on the highway is a little different...

If I don't have all the windows up the place is a mad house. Sounds like the top is going to fly off the frame. Otherwise the top seems to blow up like a balloon with the windows up and is relatively quiet. Little to no flapping of the top,

So am I stuck with having to ride down the highway with the windows up or leave them down and have it sound like I'm driving in a hurricane? I've got the top adjusted to its tightest setting. Not sure if its the top or me being clueless.

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Old 08-17-2012, 08:04 PM   #2
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Yeah its normal its annoying but you'll get used to it! Its scary sometime though if it gets going just right, sounds like its gonna fly off. They sell bar things that go overhead the front part of the roll cage to push up on the top and stop flapping.

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Old 08-17-2012, 08:18 PM   #3
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I've got a 2-1/2 hour ride to the Outer Banks. Hopefully I won't be deaf when I get there.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:34 PM   #4
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If its nice weather take the top down! Problem solved
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #5
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put a football above your sound bar on top. that should do it. lol. i do that with the bikini top on when it rains to keep water from puddling up.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyteYJeep View Post
put a football above your sound bar on top. that should do it. lol. i do that with the bikini top on when it rains to keep water from puddling up.
foam NERF football
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:40 PM   #7
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PVC from Lowes, $10
Really tightened up my bikini.

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Old 08-17-2012, 10:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul
PVC from Lowes, $10
Really tightened up my bikini.
This works wonders on a soft top. I totally eliminated the flapping in my soft top.
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
PVC from Lowes, $10
Really tightened up my bikini.

Attachment 151252
That is awesome! What's the material list? Looks like 3/4 PVC pipe and reducing tee's.
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Old 08-18-2012, 05:20 AM   #10
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Can you give us specs so interested in doing this
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:07 AM   #11
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Damn I'm a plumber and never thought of that. Oh how you have opened my eyes to all kind of mods!!

If you wanna run with the windows down, roll up your rear window as well and that will at least stop the balloon action and the free flow of air generally diminishes the flapping as well.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:25 AM   #12
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The T-connection is a 2" by 1/2"
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An 8 ft 1/2" PVC is cut to desired length.
Note the side roll bars are not parrell, they are wider at the front so, two pipes cut the same length give a slightly higher bow to the rear pipe. You have to play with it.

Also used grey primer on the PVC to blend with my grey interior.

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Old 08-18-2012, 09:50 AM   #13
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can you post a picture of what it looks like, outside side view and front or back view?

thank you
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:34 AM   #14
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I used half inch because I could not bend a 4 foot piece of 3/4" with my hands.

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No more rain roof casades from my safari cover.
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I guess you can tell from my tag Raoul is a screen name.
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:15 AM   #15
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What a great mod, man that's awesome! Quick n easy too
How did you get the pipe pieces around the rollbar exactly?
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:58 AM   #16
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Fourteen screws.

Three of the four holding the sunvisor so it will drop out of way.
Two on the bar extension at the windshield.
One on the plate at the dash/windshield.
Then the windshield will fold forward, it only needs to move about six inches.

Last there is a single Torx bolt on top of the bar extension.
You will see it when the padding is slid forward, this bolt has the tamperproof head so, you'll need a tamperproof bit.
Once the bolt is out tap the extension forward gently, the overlap is only a few inches.

The 2" PVC T connector is the perfect size to slide over the bar & padding.
It's tight but, not so tight you can't work it where you want it by hand.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:14 AM   #17
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you could cut it in half which will avoid removing all of the screws. This is how many other people have done it. The pressure of the 1/2 tube bent will keep it in place.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:44 AM   #18
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well, this is awkward. I hung pictures and everything.

We need an egg-on-face smiley.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:31 PM   #19
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Cut the 2 inch pipes almost in half. This keeps them on the bar along with the pressure of the 1/2 inch bar.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
The T-connection is a 2" by 1/2"
Attachment 151323

An 8 ft 1/2" PVC is cut to desired length.
Note the side roll bars are not parrell, they are wider at the front so, two pipes cut the same length give a slightly higher bow to the rear pipe. You have to play with it.

Also used grey primer on the PVC to blend with my grey interior.

Attachment 151324
I bought the parts, and and after cutting the "T's" in half, I used some radiator clamps to hold them onto the roll bar, while I figured out the length I wanted. Once I installed the pipe, I took off the clamps. My question is, did you glue the joints, or just run it with the bow in the pipe making a pressure fit ? Actually, to get the pipe into the fittings with me bending a bow in them, I put a touch of vasaline on the ends so they would slide in easier. If you glued the parts together, then I'd better do a clean up job on the joints and glue them up right
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #21
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I didn't split my tee's.
I lowered the windshield and slid them on.

What i have found is when the half inch pvc pipe gets bowed and then stays bowed for a long time it tends to hold that bent shape when free.
I mean it doesn't straighten back out.
This means the whole apparatus could get 'loose' because the tension goes away.

By keeping the tee's intact and sliding them on, if the tension goes away it still won't fall or slip around.

I didn't use glue, just a compression fit.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
I didn't split my tee's.
I lowered the windshield and slid them on.

What i have found is when the half inch pvc pipe gets bowed and then stays bowed for a long time it tends to hold that bent shape when free.
I mean it doesn't straighten back out.
This means the whole apparatus could get 'loose' because the tension goes away.

By keeping the tee's intact and sliding them on, if the tension goes away it still won't fall or slip around.

I didn't use glue, just a compression fit.
I split mine. Made it 6 months ago. Used 6000 glue on the joints. It has bowed to shape but never got loose.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
I didn't split my tee's.
I lowered the windshield and slid them on.

What i have found is when the half inch pvc pipe gets bowed and then stays bowed for a long time it tends to hold that bent shape when free.
I mean it doesn't straighten back out.
This means the whole apparatus could get 'loose' because the tension goes away.

By keeping the tee's intact and sliding them on, if the tension goes away it still won't fall or slip around.

I didn't use glue, just a compression fit.
Before I took it out for a test drive, I drilled a small hole in each T and screwed in a small screw. I didn't want to take a chance that the fittings may somehow come apart while trucking down the road at 65 The two ribs worked great, stayed in place, and I'm a happy camper again, no more flapping bikini on my head

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