I have heard that McMaster-Carr
sells those pop-rivets, that you put in & the inside where the nail breaks off is internally threaded. So if you already own a rivet gun, your just paying for the actual hardware. It's much cheaper this way, but again I have no personal experience with these in particular.
If I ever need to do that deal, I'll be calling McMaster-Carr for sure. Why pay that outrageous markup, for some kit that someone threw together.
I remember reading a thread about someone having to remove liquid nails because the P/O had done just what you are planning. It was a big mess, but it did hold the channel in place. If your gonna do it, I'd suggest normal (steel) pop rivets as well as the glue.
Here's the dilema: the screw holes are just about exactly 3/16" in diameter--what I mean is, the 3/16" pop rivets would fit--but only if I were to tap them in with a hammer.
The 5/32" and 1/8" pop rivets are not made with a head big enough, so they would simply slip into the screw hole and hold nothing.
That leaves me with two possible solutions:
1. Use the 1/8" rivets with small washers. Problem with this is, based on my experiments with rivets, the bottom of the rivet never even gets as big as the head, and therefore would simply pass through the screwhole, accomplishing nothing.
2. Get a 3/16" drill bit and enlarge the hole the small amount necessary to let the 3/16" rivet pass through.
I'm choosing option 2. I'll post again after I get a chance to do the job.
One note--for anyone afraid to tackle something like this, trust me--pop rivets are incredibly simple to use, you can practice with them before you attempt to work on your Jeep, and once you realize how handy they are, you'll find enough uses to quickly justify the cost of the rivet gun (which isn't much to begin with.) It's comparable to buying a decent staple gun and staples.
What do you mean by 'seal'? Shoud I put a bead of silicone caulk in there? If I use steel rivets do I even need to worry? I never even had any moisture or corrosion in there until the screwholes started to strip...
yes to seal out and moisture. the old screws got loose somehow. either through vibration or corrosion form moisture or dissimilar metals. is there any rust around the holes on the jeep? on the channel? make sure all is dry, preped and sealed w/ some caulk. use screws made out of the same material as the channels and windshield frame. dissimilar metals and a little moisture will a battery action and the "weaker" metal will corrode. if you are never going to remove the channel do it right and it will last a long time. hey rainyday, what do you think?
Dang right it`ll corrode, especially being in Carolina, wet install them with some 5-95,
and then seal between the metals if you can. If you can get your hands on an alodine 1000 stick, get it and use it on any bare metal BEFORE you seal, I know it sounds like "what, make it corrode?, The answer is yes, it`s actually a corrosion inhibiter that creats a barrier along with the alodine. Kind of like that old Dodge Valient sitting inder the sycamore tree in your dad`s back yard that has been there for 20 some years with all that crap on it and still has good paint when you rub off a spot on it. Chief knows what he`s talking about with the dissimilar metals, if you can`t get stainless, go with a zinced fastener, unless you plan on selling it.
hey rainy. can you get alodine on the outside? where would i look? we have that nasty problem out here on the coast. every drop of water has salt in it. kind like acid rain. never heard of an alodine 1000 stick.
I don`t know chief, but the 1000 doesn`t have quite the oomph as the 1200 but you don`t need it anyways and the applicator on the end of the stick sure makes applying it a lot easier and cleaner. Stuff works wonders on T2425 grade aluminum which I know you worked around a lot.
Dang, maybe I should not been such a wimp and joined the Navy, maybe then I would at least have a clue as to what the heck I`m talking about,,*LOL*
Morglan, get it sealed up real good with some good cic and alodine, sheesh, you`ll be good above 48,000 ft even,,heh-heh.
Let me know if you can`t find any cheif, I may be able to buy some surplus,
dissimilar metal corrosion wil eventually corrode the aluminum rivets. they are the weaker metal making them sacrificial. length of time to corrode depends on conditions of weather/moisture, etc. sealing is the key.
I'm planning on using steel rivets--is that what the channels are made of?
(I have a huge problem with dissimilar metals causing corrosion on my Jeep--the previous owner installed (I believe) chrome hinges on the doors and windshield. I just need to find the time to take them off, sand it down and re-paint.