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Old 02-13-2013, 11:48 AM   #1
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Spartan Locker Install with Solid Axle Swap Walkthrough

So in an effort to help my fellow Jeepers I figured I would put this up. I installed this over the weekend. I wasn't planning on it, but I ended up with a bad seal at the Cad Housing and my 4WD motor wasn't getting it into 4WD anymore. So I did a Solid axle swap with a spartan install at the same time.

Obviously the first thing you do is remove the diff cover and drain the diff. I would also suggest brake cleaner before pulling the carrier to keep things a bit cleaner for you.

Then remove the Vacum motor from the passenger side of the Axle as well at the wheels, calipers and rotors.

I want make a point to say you do not need to remove the Hub Nuts like some people put in other posts. The only way you would need to do that is if you are doing a solid axle swap like myself. Even then you would only do the passenger side, unless you are getting the axle with larger u-joints in which case you do both sides. They are easiest to do if you remove your center caps and put the wheels back on to hold the nuts while you go at them with some PB Blaster and a breaker bar. You will also want new codderpins for them. They are 2 1/4" long and can be picked up at Loews for .60 cents a pair. After the hub nuts, or if you didnt need to remove those you then remove the three hub retaining bolts on the back of the knuckes. In the one pic you can see the bolts partially removed. The hubs are probably going to be in those knuckles pretty tight. Getting them to break loose is super easy though. Just take a bolt with a washer nuts on it to make it fatter. Stick that between your axle tube, and the axle yoke. Then just start your jeep and turn the wheel so it compresses the bolt and pops your hub loose. Once you do that on both sides you can slide the axles right out.

Next it is time to remove the bearing retainer bolts from the carrier. Make note what bolt goes to what hole as well as which retainer is on what side. DO NOT MIX THEM UP. Once those are off you can slide the carrier out of the Differential housing. Mine slid right out, but some people need to gently pry theirs out. Once the carrier is out your axle will pretty much look all hollowed out. Now for the fun part.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:01 PM   #2
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So now that the carrier is out you need to remove the spider gears. I know many people say you do not need to remove the ring to do this. If you look at the side view of my carrier you will see that the ring it preventing the pin from coming out, so guess what, I go to remove the ring. I saw someone said their ring was bolted in with reverse threads, that was not the case with mine. First I marked the ring and carrier so I could line it back up when I reassembled. Then I put it in a vice and broke all the bolts loose, then I set it back down on my bench and removed them by hand and placed them down in a particular order so I could put them all back in the same holes. After some tapping with a rubber hammer the ring popped off. From there I remove the pin holding in the pin and gutted the carrier. Make sure you get out all 4 thrust washers if installing a Spartan. If you are doing a Aussie you will reuse the ones on the sides. I am sure the instructions that came with your locker will walk you through putting the actual locker into the carrier. Its super easy anyway. Make sure you measure the gap to see if it is within specs before putting your ring back on. I started the bolts on the ring before putting it back in the vice to torque them all down to spec (55ft lbs), using a star pattern on the bolts of course.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:34 PM   #3
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Ok so if you are doing a solid axle swap, you will have to put a seal in the passenger side of the tube before reinstalling the carrier. NAPA Aprt # 11800 is what you want. I tried multiple ones since other people state others will work, but the ONLY one to work for me was the NAPA part. I also put two of them side by side and used RTV sealant. I made sure they were about 1/4" apart from each other and would both be riding on the machined part of the axle. You can do this with the solid axle since there is no machined spot in the tube for a seal. I figure two are better than one. I put them in by myself and used a dolly with a 36mm socket to bang them in strait. I removed the seal at the CAD housing.

To retain my 4WD light until I get the sensor to use in the TC for the light I cut the shift fork off the Vacum motor. I did not want to take it apart since it was stuck pretty bad to remove the fork, and it is aluminum which breaks and strips too damn easy. I know I could have left the fork intact, but having it ride that close to the spinning axle all the time made me too nervous. Now I still have a 4WD light and it cost me nothing.

After that I put the carrier back in, and torqued the bolts down to the recommended 57ft lbs. Since I was putting in the solid axle I put my old hub onto the new axle. Once that was on I stuck it on the vice and torqued the hub nut to 175ft lbs. Then used my new codderpin to put the retainer on. Also before sliding the hub on I used anti sieze so when I need to take it off again I can. My new axle had a tone ring for ABS, I left it on because I did not feel like messing with it. You can swap out the tone ring for the spacer if you do not have ABS though.

I also purchased greaseable outer seals for my axle tubes. I RTVed them, put them in, lined the seal with a little grease, then slid my axles back into the carrier. I then tightened down the hub retainer bolts (also with antisieze) a to 75 ft lbs. Then the brakes went back on, After that I put the tires back on and had someone hold one tire while I turned the wheels back and forth making sure the locker was working correctly. Worked perfect!

Then I put on my new diff cover and filled with a heavier 85w140 Lucas oil. I heard over and over that this is better for the locker. Took it for a test spin. Got a few pops turning tight circles in a paved parking lot. Drove around and they were already quieter after about 10 miles. I hit some muddy trails and it felt like I was on pavement. Thing grips like crazy now. Steering is a bit harder, but I have not gotten used to the new driving habits I will need for driving in 4WD with a locker. I may have forgotten a couple of things, but I would be happy to answer any questions.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:47 PM   #4
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Great write up....Thanks....
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:30 PM   #5
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thank you sir, were the instructions any good?
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:30 PM   #6
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Ive got all the parts together, except the seals. Did you put the Napa seal on the passenger side of the pumpkin or in the CAD housing? If so was it the side closest to the pumpkin or tire? Any vibrations from your front driveshaft?

Thanks for the write up!
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmanwalking View Post
Ive got all the parts together, except the seals. Did you put the Napa seal on the passenger side of the pumpkin or in the CAD housing? If so was it the side closest to the pumpkin or tire? Any vibrations from your front driveshaft?

Thanks for the write up!
You will have to put it on the Diff/Pumpkin side. There is a machined spot on the axle for a seal. If you put it anywhere else it will get torn up and need to be replaced since the axle is not smooth enough for it. I would also recommend the outer alloy seals as well. Those will keep crap out of your tubes and should extend their life.

As far as vibration, I do not have that. I can hear the chain in the TC spinning away though. I knew it was going to do that, but since i have bedliner inside nothing blocks the noise from me so I now hear that as well.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerblood View Post
thank you sir, were the instructions any good?
Instruction from Spartan were easy. It is getting the carrier on your bench and knowing how to take it apart and put it back together that was the hardest.

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