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Old 08-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #1
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Stalls in hard turn

'88 YJ stalls when I cut it hard left/right. First time I had less than a quarter of a tank showing on the gauge, thought it might be sloshing away from the pick-up, second time gauge showed over half a tank and wouldn't start until more fuel was added. Thinking it might be sludge slopping/sticking to the pick-up? Anybody got any suggestions that don't involve money? Of course, I'm eager to listen to any/all suggestions, can't help but learn something useful! This is my "new" daily driver so, please be gentle with me.

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Old 08-27-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
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To see if its sludge take pressured air and shoot it down the fuel line. this will blow back any sludge and dirty filter back into the tank. see if it will run better after that. but make sure you clean out the tank after.

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Old 08-27-2013, 12:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
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To see if its sludge take pressured air and shoot it down the fuel line. this will blow back any sludge and dirty filter back into the tank. see if it will run better after that. but make sure you clean out the tank after.
Do this from the engine compartment taking the fuel loose from the throttle body, or drop the tank and shoot it at that end? And, how much air pressure is to much ?
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:02 PM   #4
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you could try seat foam too. I did this from my fuel pump back. I'm not sure how much is to much, I just know a lot came out. WOW WOW wait. is your jeep fuel injected?
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:23 PM   #5
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you could try seat foam too. I did this from my fuel pump back. I'm not sure how much is to much, I just know a lot came out. WOW WOW wait. is your jeep fuel injected?

Yup ! Looks like it to me, big with wires going to it right in the middle of the throat ! And I have "sea foam" in my tank now, but, it's the first can and I haven't even got the whole tank run through yet.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:30 PM   #6
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Oh wow I guess that's a plus. Does you truck stall when you stop too?
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:59 PM   #7
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Not after it warms up. Just when I make a u-turn quick. Idle is a little rough/low when cold but, otherwise not to bad. Don't have a lot of power in 4th or 5th but, figered that was due to being a 4 banger with over 154000 miles. Is the procedure to blow the lines different because of the EFI ?? Is there something else I should look at ??
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:49 AM   #8
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Oh though it was a 4.2. I think it is since you have the electric fuel pump. I fyou really think its sludge. you could take the lines out and clean them(watch out for the pressure) Or clean/replace you IAC. My jeeps idle lowers when taking tight turn because the steering pump struggles to turn the big tires, putting strain on the engine.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:43 PM   #9
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I have similar issues when turning left, over the years I have learned my fuel gauge is WAY off.
My first half tank on my gauge is actually my first 3/4 tank, then once it hits half, it dops alot faster, and i stall out around left hand turns. By the time I get ti 1/4, i need gas, not because im empty, but because its about undriveable (probably deep in th red if my gauge was correct).
This seems a common issue, and the fix is to install the larger tank with a baffle thats not broken and a sender that works.

'90 2.5 TBI manual
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:32 PM   #10
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Just a 2.5 4 banger with out power steering. May need more help here, went and drove cross town this morning and when I got back in the jeep NO START ! Looking at the gauges temp was over 210 , been parked for bout 15 min, had to wait for little over a hour before it would start. While waiting I was poking around under the hood eyeballing stuff and noticed a piece of rubber hose stuck onto the "idle speed actuator" (whatever the hell that is) so I went and tried to pull it off and it broke off in my hand ! BUT, after I got it started the idle speed is lots lower around 550-750 rpm. Now I'm really confused !

BTW; found the name of that thing by looking up wiring diagrams, found some good ones on the Auto Zone web site, don't ask me for a link cause I can't do all that fancy stuff yet !

Any body got any ideas ???
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:47 PM   #11
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pictures to go with post #10

#1 (red arrow) is the rubber hose on the idle speed actuator.
#2 (red arrow) is the idle speed actuator after the hose broke off.
#3 (no arrow) is the stump that was left after breaking.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:02 PM   #12
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PO must have had idle problems because it doesn't come with a piece if rubber hose on it.

Idle should be steady at 800 rpm.

If it still fluctuates there us a procedure to adjust I'll look for the thread.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:18 PM   #13
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Borrowed this from Que on JF this morning. Here it is a little intense but can be done.

IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR (ISA) MOTOR
1) Adjust ISA motor plunger to establish initial position of
plunger only if motor has been removed or replaced. Remove air filter
elbow and start engine. Run engine until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Turn A/C off (if equipped).
2) Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1,
attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to
terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4. Turn ignition off. ISA motor plunger
should move to fully extended position.
3) When ISA motor plunger is fully extended, disconnect ISA
motor wiring connector and start engine. Engine speed should be
3300-3700 RPM. If incorrect, turn hex head screw at end of plunger to
provide engine speed of 3500 RPM.
4) Fully retract ISA motor by holding closed throttle (idle)
switch plunger inward as throttle is opened. Closed throttle switch
plunger should not touch throttle lever in closed position. If
contact is made, check linkage and/or cable for binding or damage.
Repair as necessary.
5) Connect ISA motor wiring harness connector and turn
ignition off for 10 seconds. ISA motor should move to fully extended
position. Start engine. Engine speed should be 3500 RPM for short
period of time and then decrease to normal idle speed.
6) Turn ignition off. Disconnect tachometer. After final
adjustment of ISA motor, use thread penetrating sealant (Loctite 290)
on adjustment screw to prevent movement and maintain adjustment.
NOTE: If adjustment screw must be moved after thread sealant
hardens, loosen threads by heating screw with flameless heat
such as soldering gun. DO NOT use flame or torch type of
heat as damage to ISA motor will result.


I am more concerned with the original problem. I dredged my YJ up after 7 years of setting and a rollover. When I first fired it up and got to drive up and down the street I went to get a smog to register it still stock with minimal work. Plugs etc and no real rebuild of anything. Ran great for 2 miles passed smog and on the way out I guess I upset a storm in the fuel tank. Barely drove it home. Dropped the tank and found tons of debris had covered the sock on the end of the pump.

So your original problem stalls in a u-turn and actually needs fuel when the gauge says half. It could be the sock is clogged and setting until you get more fule or there is a problem inside the tank and you are trapping 5 gallons. So I would look at dropping thetank or cutting an acces hole in the back to remove the pump and sending unit and appraise the situation. Here is alink that may work for your old YJ. It is only good for 91 and newer but I am sure if you figure out where the access is located on your tank you can adjust and make it work.

Template for '91 & newer tank sending unit access door - JeepForum.com
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:19 PM   #14
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Mine has no hose on it and it idles around 1K.
I never cared enough to mess with it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:16 PM   #15
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Maybe because u loos power. How big tires to u have
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerchief462 View Post
PO must have had idle problems because it doesn't come with a piece if rubber hose on it.

Idle should be steady at 800 rpm.

If it still fluctuates there us a procedure to adjust I'll look for the thread.

think it was PO before him, thanks for the intel, but I think I broke the plunger when I pulled the piece of hose off (see the third pic).
can anybody tell me if this things broke and is it supposed to be flush on the bracket or cocked to the side like that ?
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:29 PM   #17
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30's and they are street tires.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:17 PM   #18
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30's and they are street tires.
Mmmmmmm. I think it may be something with you power steering, YouTube your problem u will get your answer
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:30 PM   #19
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nope, no power steering, MANUAL steering, my arms are getting bigger every time I drive it !
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:02 PM   #20
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OK, Here's where I'm at for now.

Thanks for all suggestions and intel guys, they led me to some interesting places. Until I can afford to buy some stuff I'm not going to make any quick U-turns. It looks like my idle speed actuator is shot! (it rattles when you shake it), so I fabricated a replacement for rubber thing that broke off and now I have a good idle. During all this poking around I found MANY interesting things! My check engine light does not come on at any time, I have no cat converter which explains the connector plug I found laying around on the intake manifold (think it goes to the O2 sensor).
So for now I going to run what I've got and make offerings to the JEEP god AND the Ranger god (maybe even CROM) until I can afford some parts then I will start throwing money at it.
Thanks.

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