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Old 10-16-2010, 05:43 PM   #1
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Stock YJ front axle seals leaking

both sides are leaking on the front, as evidenced by fluid all over the "C Joint" where the axle comes out of the housing.

How "hard" are these to replace? Is there an inner and outer seal? Is this something I can feasibly do in the yard/basement? Special tools required?

Local shop quoted $300.

thankee in advance.

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Old 10-16-2010, 05:58 PM   #2
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Don't know a lot about them but I think I would pay $300 to have it fixed.

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Old 10-16-2010, 09:55 PM   #3
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It can be be done at home in garage or driveway if you have the right tools and are good with your hands. It does involve removing the axles and carrier but it can be done. It's not that hard if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. And it will be a hell of alot cheaper than $300.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:00 PM   #4
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I need my seals replaced also.My brother said the parts only cost about 20/25 bucks.Don't know for sure.Does anybody know if there is u-joints in the axles?
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:27 PM   #5
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No there is no u-joint inside of the axle and the seals are pretty cheap. The inner seal is SPICER # 46470 if you have the axle disconnect there is a larger seal I'm not sure of the # right now but I know you can find one at any parts store. If your axle diconnect is giving you trouble now is a perfect time to change to one piece axles.
  1. Support the vehicle with both front wheels off the ground
  2. Remove the wheels and axle hub/seal assembly
  3. Remove the vacuum disconnect on the passenger side of the axle, if so equipped.
  4. Remove the differential cover & drain the fluid
  5. Remove the axle shafts
  6. Remove the gear carrier, being careful to mark the bearing caps and bearing races so they can be replaced in their original positions and orientations
  7. Remove the old seal, which sits just inside the axle tube where it meets the pumpkin, with a pry bar. It's in there tight, so a big screwdriver probably won't do it.
  8. Press the new seal into place
  9. Install everything you removed, in reverse order
  10. Also it would be a good time to switch the outer plastic axle seals with aftermarket aluminum grease packed seals to keep dirt and water out.
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Old 10-19-2010, 05:27 PM   #6
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dude, thanks for that awesome reply. Part numbers, even. LOL

what shop manual do you recommend? any specific?
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:06 PM   #7
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That last post was pretty spot on! I just recently did a pass side front seal and it sucked due to not having the right seal driver/puller size.The tube is long on that side and its hard ta pull the seal in place.. Oh and i saw those aluminum greasable outer seals and they look amazingly awesome!
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:24 PM   #8
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The outer axle seals are around $60 but they are well worth it.
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:45 AM   #9
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I used a 4' piece of threaded rod, large washer on the seal side and just a steel strap on the outer side of the axle, tightened the nut on the outer side and squeezed the seal in place. Worked Great. bought all the hardware at Tractor supply store for under $20.00

Tim


Quote:
Originally Posted by TWIZTIDNINJA View Post
No there is no u-joint inside of the axle and the seals are pretty cheap. The inner seal is SPICER # 46470 if you have the axle disconnect there is a larger seal I'm not sure of the # right now but I know you can find one at any parts store. If your axle diconnect is giving you trouble now is a perfect time to change to one piece axles.
  1. Support the vehicle with both front wheels off the ground
  2. Remove the wheels and axle hub/seal assembly
  3. Remove the vacuum disconnect on the passenger side of the axle, if so equipped.
  4. Remove the differential cover & drain the fluid
  5. Remove the axle shafts
  6. Remove the gear carrier, being careful to mark the bearing caps and bearing races so they can be replaced in their original positions and orientations
  7. Remove the old seal, which sits just inside the axle tube where it meets the pumpkin, with a pry bar. It's in there tight, so a big screwdriver probably won't do it.
  8. Press the new seal into place
  9. Install everything you removed, in reverse order
  10. Also it would be a good time to switch the outer plastic axle seals with aftermarket aluminum grease packed seals to keep dirt and water out.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:13 PM   #10
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Nice, Tim. A feller after my own heart. LOL

can yall elaborate on this:

Quote:
Remove the gear carrier, being careful to mark the bearing caps and bearing races so they can be replaced in their original positions and orientations
you mean left and right side? or rotationally so?
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:39 PM   #11
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leaking front axle seals

I have just got finished "rebuilding" my front axle. I say rebuild because after everything I did to it, I felt that is what I would do. If you have a shop that will put in new seals for $300, I would go with it. It is a real pain in the butt! The tools can be rented at any Autozone or O'Reilly's.

My plan started with removing the axle shafts and replacing the Ujoints. This involved removing everything from brakes, hub bearings, shields and shafts. I have a 1992 YJ. When I pulled the parts, I noticed all kinds of sand and grit in the axle tubes. What Chrysler uses for a "seal" is a joke! On my shafts were a circular plastic "snap together" shield which wouldn't seal the axles from anything except the largest pebbles. I couldn't believe it! I searched the internet and found Alloy USA who makes the nicest seals I have ever seen. They run about $60 a pair and are very hefty. I ordered them. Alloy USA makes two kinds for the YJ: the OEM axles ones and the "Grande" axle ones, for larger diameter axle shafts. While waiting for the seals to come in, I sent the shafts to a local powder coating shop who sand blasted them and coated all areas except where the bearings and Ujoints went. The shafts were beautiful and then new Ujoints were put in and I was ready for the new seals.

Problem: The new seals came in and they wouldn't fit over the passenger side shaft. My shaft was too wide for the seal. I called up ALLOY USA and talked to a fantastic customer service rep who guided me through the process. When he realized he wasn't going to be able to fix this situation, he guided me to one of his competitors who might. WHAT SERVICE!! I MEAN BECAUSE OF THAT MAN, I AM GOING TO EAT THE EXTRA COSTS OF ALL OF THE SEALS I BOUGHT! It wasn't his fault his seals didn't fit. I bought my jeep used and obviously this particular shaft was replaced with some aftermarket one. It wasn't even in Jeep specs.

I contacted Superior Axle and Gear and told them the situation. A man named Mac talked to me about it and told me they sell a conversion kit to put in a solid axle and replace that axle "disconnect" much like the current TJ. He said Jeep had so many problems with the YJ that they didn't make the same mistake with the TJ. With the new axle shaft, the Alloy USA seals would work. He even complemented ALLOY USA saying, "They have the best seals he has ever seen." So now I wait for my axle conversion kit to come in.

As I understand it, the seals that would be leaking are outside the chunk area in the axle tubes. They can be replaced but getting everything out to do it is extremely time consuming. You will need special tools, and as mentioned, you can rent them. But if you have a shop that will do it for $300, THAT IS MONEY WELL SPENT!!

Take care,

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