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Old 08-23-2014, 11:48 AM   #1
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traded my yj for fsj

im hoping you guys can help me before i get approved into the fsj forums as i would like to get this running asap. it is a 1979 jeep j10 with an amc 360 and i think a 4 bbl edlebrock 650.

it cranks and cranks and cranks, if i spray some gas in the carb it will try to fire up and sometimes succeed to fire, but will almost instantly die. this must mean it isnt getting fuel to the carb?

again, sorry for posting this here, but would love it if you awesome people could help

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Old 08-23-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
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A good place to start is where you just did. Is there fresh fuel in it? Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and see if fuel is reaching there. If it is, start looking into the carb for answers.

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Old 08-23-2014, 11:59 AM   #3
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A good place to start is where you just did. Is there fresh fuel in it? Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and see if fuel is reaching there. If it is, start looking into the carb for answers.
yes i put fresh fuel in today. so if fuel exits that line then it must be carb related?

this is my first carbureted motor, and i know nothing about them
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:14 PM   #4
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Yes. If you get fuel to the line, then it is carb related.

Sometimes the 650 has an inline filter screwed into the carb that the fuel line hooks to. If it doesn't have that then there is an inline filter between the carb and the pump. The pump is located on the passenger side of the block, just above the oil pan, in front of the motor mount.
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:27 PM   #5
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Yes. If you get fuel to the line, then it is carb related.

Sometimes the 650 has an inline filter screwed into the carb that the fuel line hooks to. If it doesn't have that then there is an inline filter between the carb and the pump. The pump is located on the passenger side of the block, just above the oil pan, in front of the motor mount.

fuel did come out of the line, it would come out in bursts.. would shoot out then back off then shoot out then back off, idk if thats normal. also the gas was a very different color than the gas i have in the squirt bottle, again idk if thats normal. haha.

so if it is the carb would it need to be replaced? rebuilt\? or just tuned? thanks
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:40 PM   #6
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The gas is probably old. But you are getting gas from the pump, so the next thing would be to see if you are getting gas into the motor. Hook the line back up and roll the motor a few times. Then turn it off and crawl up onto the motor and look down into the carb, moving the throttle linkage should let you see the gas spray into the opening in the carb.

If you aren't getting any gas spray, try tapping on the top of the carb just back from where the fuel line hooks to it. On that side of the carb it has twin fuel bowls inside there and the needle valves for the floats could be stuck from sitting. You can tap on the top of the carb with the handle of a screw driver. Not too hard though, it is just thin aluminum. Make your taps straight in line with the fuel line inlet, all the way down that side of the carb.

If still no gas, then the carb will need torn apart and rebuilt. There are a ton of videos on Youtube that show you how. It's fairly simple. Just replacing old parts with the new, and a new gasket set. The rebuild kit is around $25.
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Old 08-23-2014, 01:11 PM   #7
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I always start buy pouring fuel into the vent tube at the top of the carb, this will get the bowls filled with fuel, if your carb is in good working order, this should be enough to get the motor started and keep it running for a min. Or two. If it dies after that, then it is an issue between the pump and the carb (filter, clogged/cracked line or just bad fuel causing needles to stick).

Keep in mind, continually cranking over a carb'd engine while dumping fuel or starter fluid down the intake will quickly flood the engine and get the plugs to wet to fire or worse yet, foul enough plugs that you will have running issues. If you aren't confident enough to pull the plugs, let the engine sit for an hour, then fill the carb cia the vent tube with fresh fuel, give it a single shot of starter fluid and have a helper turn the key. If it doesn't fire off, you need to dig deeper into a tune-up of the engine.
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:25 PM   #8
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since it does fire up does that mean timing is fine? i want to try and pinpoint the problem before i start taking it apart
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:39 PM   #9
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If it starts and runs but dies, timing could be close, have you followed all of the advice above, if so, what was the result?

Personally, I wouldn't run it on the bad gas in the tank, especially if it was off color enough to be note worthy. Run the suction side of the pump into a gas can and do you debug off of that, then empty the tank with a suction pump....any residual fuel can be thinned when filling the tank with fresh fuel.

If once you are good with gas, you should put the engine to TDC (#1 cyl to top of stroke) and verify distributor orientation. We can walk you through the steps if need be, but I am sure a search for "set timing of a 360 amc" will get you a detailed write up with pics.
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:49 PM   #10
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i followed the steps yes, i determined the carb needs a rebuild. my carb almost looks incomplete, i watched a video of the same carb and the choke moved a tray up and down, mine doesn't have that tray, so maybe its better to replace the carb.

i just thought that the timing may be off. but the jeep did sit for a while, so i thought the carb was all gunned up. i know nothing about carbs and the more i read the more confused i get
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:22 PM   #11
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FWIW, I would recommend that you just buy a new, already rebuilt carb. Lots of vendors on this site, and other good jeep forums offering rebuilt 2bbl carbs for the 360 that will get you up and running. If you want to learn more, rebuild the carb that is on the truck now, and have it for a spare.

I swapped out a carb on a 4.2l with the motorcraft 2bbl, and it took MAYBE 15 mins. start to finish, it was dialed in from the rebuilder for the 4.2l and it couldn't have gone easier, we bolted it up and wheeled all weekend without a hick-up or screw driver turned. A successful swap will give you the confidence to dig further into the project, don't let an extra $100 upfront cost derail your project and stifle your enthusiasm. Do some research on any possible upgrades, then buy from a reputable rebuilder and be out driving in no time!
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:26 PM   #12
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FYI, that tray I believe you are referring to is the choke itself, it forces the engine to draw a higher vacuum when cold, which in turn pulls in more fuel and warms up the engine (basically). You can simulate this by manually choking the engine with a piece of cardboard or a hand....but it sounds as if new might be the best way to go.

Hard to tell on the timing, chains stretch, itchy fingers spin distributors trying to get more power out of engines, vac. advance hoses fall off....if it starts, runs, and dies I think you are close....the rest is just details. Air, fuel, compression, spark! If you have all of those...the rest is just fine tuning.
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Old 08-23-2014, 05:17 PM   #13
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if my motor has a 4bbl edelbrock on it now, will a 2bbl motor craft or similar bolt on? i think i just want to get a stock one
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Old 08-23-2014, 05:19 PM   #14
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i read something about adapters..
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Old 08-23-2014, 05:29 PM   #15
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It sounds to me like you need a tune up and maybe a rebuilt carb. I would take it to a good mechanic and let him do it right. Once you see how a good mechanic sets it up, you can learn from that when it comes to tuneups in the future. The motto being: "Do it right the first time".
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:58 PM   #16
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if a vehicle isn't driven in winter some guys run a carb without a choke. it's intake path is cleaner an helps performance. this is done on summer only muscle cars a lot. I'd clean the fuel system, change the plugs/wires/cap an either get a new/rebuilt carb or if that one has a choke, take it apart an clean it up really good.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:01 PM   #17
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i got it running, ran it for a few minutes before i shut it off, tonight i wanted to take it out for a test and it dies within 5 seconds. it doesnt have a choke
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:10 PM   #18
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The mounting bolt pattern for the Edelbrock 650 and an MC 2100 series are not the same. But they do make an adapter plate to make the swap.

If it doesn't have a choke, then it will be problematic starting unless its above 80 degrees outside. But you should be able to get it to start and then feather the fuel pedal until its warm.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:16 PM   #19
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well it started right up but would die within 5 seconds, could that be the choke? i thought they were just used to start it
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:27 PM   #20
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No, an electronic choke closes for the vehicle to start, then as the engine warms it slowly opens more and more until it is wide open. It is a much longer time than just for it to start.

It isn't the same as a motorcycle or atv that just uses it to start. Those motors produce high heat instantly because they are air cooled. At least the older ones are.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:31 PM   #21
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it has a manual choke, or did. so this must be the problem. im gonna have to look at this first.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:04 AM   #22
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also, fuel is only squirting out one of the jets. is there only two? that just happens when i pull the linkage
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:27 AM   #23
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It actually has 4. Hence the name 4bbl carb? But you can only see the 2 in the carb opening. The others spray into the same opening but are vacuum secondaries and they wont open up til it gets into a higher RPM. and deep into the pedal.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:48 PM   #24
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With it missing parts and not working right, I would think it's time for a New or Re manufactured 600 CFM Holley with an Electric chock, and eliminate a lot of head ache with a Carb. that you don't know what who has done what to. Good Luck!
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:28 PM   #25
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wish i could afford a new carb, local parts store priced me a stock carb im guessing 2bbl motorcraft for 391$

all it needs a choke
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:40 PM   #26
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If it had a manual choke, can you put it back on?
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:57 PM   #27
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can you post up a pic of your carb? Also you could hit craigslist or swap meets up for the same carb in need of a rebuild or missing parts but has a choke an make one good one.

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