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Old 04-10-2010, 12:45 PM   #1
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transmission or clutch

With the help of jpdocdave I changed my transmission oil hoping it would fix the problem I was having getting into gears and out. I have a 1990 yj 4.2l manual transmission. I had the clutch replaced last february or march. The mechanic put the gear oil in and according to jpdocdave that isn't what should go in it so i'm starting to doubt whether the mechanic knew much about jeeps. The clutch doesn't feel any different. I can put into all the gears fine when the jeep is off but it's extremely difficult when on.

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Old 04-10-2010, 01:39 PM   #2
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I had the same problem, did you check the hydraulic fluid? Open your hood and on the driver side up toward the windshield there's a resevior that says "Clutch" (well it does on mine). When I had the problem I checked that and it was low. On the cap it said "use dot3 fluid only" and i knew my brake fluid was dot3 so i did some research and found that you can use that. I filled it up and pumped the clutch a few times and it worked like new.

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Old 04-10-2010, 03:15 PM   #3
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I just checked it and it was extremely low so I filled it up but it still wont get into gears with ease.
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:19 PM   #4
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Try bleeding it...
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:19 PM   #5
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Hmm... maybe you need to bleed the clutch line? My dad was telling me something about doing that.
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:39 PM   #6
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I thought you only did that when the clutch pedal would stick to the floor when disengaged. any write ups on how to bleed a clutch for a 1990 yj?
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:59 PM   #7
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oh and when i filled up the fluid and i pumped the clutch a couple of times i saw little air bubbles at the top. Does this mean i need to bleed?
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:04 PM   #8
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yeah i'm pretty sure you need to bleed it. let me check my haynes repair manual and see if it tells how.
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:24 PM   #9
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Ok here's what my Haynes repair manual says.

1) The hydraulic system should be bled to remove all air whenever any part of the system has been removed or if the fluid level has fallen so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder. The procedure is very similar to bleed a brake system.

2) Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. Caution: Don’t re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation. Also, don't use fluid which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands to gain access to the release cylinder(or bleeder screw), which is located on the side of the clutch housing.

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder screw and push a length of plastic hose over the screw. Place the other end of the hose in a clear container with about two inches of brake fluid. The hose must be in the fluid at the bottom of the container.

5) Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder screw on the transmission, allowing fluid to flow through the hose. Close the bleeder screw when the flow of bubbles or old fluid ceases. Once closed, have your assistant release the clutch pedal. Note: The bleeder screw used on four cylinder models is on the right side of the transmission. The bleeder screw on six cylinder models is on the right side of the transmission, right above the fitting for the clutch hydraulic line.

6) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder screw each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container. Keep a close watch on the fluid level inside the master cylinder - if the level drops too low, air will be sucked back into the system and the process will have to be started all over again.

7) Lower the vehicle, top off the fluid level and check carefully for proper operation before placing the vehicle in normal service.












That's an exact copy of what’s in my book. Pretty detailed and has some pictures that I'm not going to post. I'd suggest going to Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts and buying one of these bad boys. They're about 20 bucks but will save you thousands of dollars in the long run, assuming you put it to good use. Hope this helps if you need anything else let me know
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:30 AM   #10
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Park on a level surface and leave the reservoir cap off over night.

Usually this will allow the air to work it's way up to the top and escape.
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:46 AM   #11
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alright thanks guys. That will be my mission today and if it doesn't work I'll try leaving the cap off over night.
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Old 04-11-2010, 10:34 AM   #12
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Let's say bleeding doesn't work either. How much would it cost to have the transmission fixed or the clutch fixed? or are there any other ideas to fix this?
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Old 04-11-2010, 12:01 PM   #13
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Umm, if bleeding doesn't work, I'm not sure what else you could do. You might have to replace the whole clutch and that can be around $900. But I have a good feeling that bleeding it will work if adding more hydraulic fluid made it easier to shift.

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