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Old 02-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #31
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Just push it up, lol.......3 options here.

1, buy a clocking ring
2, clock it up and use 5 bolts instead of 6
3, clock it up and tap the trans tailhousing for the 6th bolt.

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Old 02-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #32
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So for a gutless little 2.5L using 5 out of 6 bolts probably wouldn't be a problem?

But with a high output I6 stroker probably want the ring or 6 bolt option?

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Old 05-02-2013, 07:00 PM   #33
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going to resurect this thread as opposed to start a new one...

I already have a 1" BL
My plan is to get the barnes4wd 2" skid that is only 1" higher up than stock
and add new SYE/CV shaft

do I need to add a 1" MML also?, and Im planning on just mounting the Tcase to the new skid like factory.

does anyone forsee any complications with doing it this way?
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:57 AM   #34
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going to resurect this thread as opposed to start a new one...

I already have a 1" BL
My plan is to get the barnes4wd 2" skid that is only 1" higher up than stock
and add new SYE/CV shaft

do I need to add a 1" MML also?, and Im planning on just mounting the Tcase to the new skid like factory.

does anyone forsee any complications with doing it this way?
If you are doing all this work, I'd recommend you go completely flat. That's what I'm planning to do...very soon
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:07 AM   #35
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Now with 6 1/2 stretch my driveshaft is happy. .
What springs did you use to get 6 1/2" of stretch?

Also, Norcal_Chris is exactly right on the flat belly. You can see my thread on it here and everything I've had to do so far to fix mine.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/driv...ch-235243.html

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Old 05-03-2013, 08:11 AM   #36
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What springs did you use to get 6 1/2" of stretch?

Also, Norcal_Chris is exactly right on the flat belly. You can see my thread on it here and everything I've had to do so far to fix mine.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/driv...ch-235243.html

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Xj springs.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:15 AM   #37
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Xj springs.
Can you post a picture of where your front and rear spring perches/shackles are welded to? I did the dirty math on it with my XJ springs (not installed yet) and it looks like I'm only getting about 3" more clearance to the rear using the stock front mounting position and a boomerang shackle mounted to my rear bumper.
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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:12 PM   #38
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Can you post a picture of where your front and rear spring perches/shackles are welded to? I did the dirty math on it with my XJ springs (not installed yet) and it looks like I'm only getting about 3" more clearance to the rear using the stock front mounting position and a boomerang shackle mounted to my rear bumper.


Stock front mount, rear mounts hung off were stock crossmember used to be.

With stock front mount it is 6in stretch. Yj leaves are 22 1/2ish eye to centerpin. Xj rears are 28 1/2 on long end from eye to center pin. I actually moved my axle back 3 more inches recently to account for doubler length and 14bolt pinion stickout. So now I am getting 8in of stretch. I moved the front mount back 3 inches and an inch or so up into the frame. And spsced the bsck mount out a little.

Its all in my build thread.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:53 PM   #39
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If you are doing all this work, I'd recommend you go completely flat. That's what I'm planning to do...very soon
I cant go completely flat with only 1" BL(i dont want to cut into my tub either), and like others have mentioned here, without stretching my wheelbase.

The 2" skid is plenty for the stuff I get into.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:23 PM   #40
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I am completely flat, no stretch, sye and cv shaft. Did it with my 8.8 install. No issues at all. I used more 1" lift mml, and have 1" bl. I also made the trans mount myself...

In fact I used the same driveshaft i had hooked to the d35.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #41
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with just 1" BL? which brand skid?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:33 PM   #42
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Yes 1" BL. No brand. Made it myself from 1/4 plate. I did have to dent in my tub about 1" near the ds just to make sure it did not hit. I used a porta power and went slow. The dent is under the console. so it's impossible to see on the inside and really hard to see underneath.

I am not gonna lie. It is not super easy to do but it is doable.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:38 PM   #43
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IC, glad it worked for you, but I think im still gonna use the barnes 2" drop skid, I had considered buying the flat one and dropping it 1" with some square tube but I kinda decided against it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:45 PM   #44
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Gotta do what you can. Every inch counts IMHO.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:00 AM   #45
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Yes 1" BL. No brand. Made it myself from 1/4 plate. I did have to dent in my tub about 1" near the ds just to make sure it did not hit. I used a porta power and went slow. The dent is under the console. so it's impossible to see on the inside and really hard to see underneath.

I am not gonna lie. It is not super easy to do but it is doable.
95YamJam, I looked for your tummy tuck in your build thread, but couldn't find any pictures. Can you offer up a few more details or pictures on what you did to go completely flat? I'd like to see your crossmember design too.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:56 AM   #46
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I can get some pics up. I have them but need to go thru them. I have about a thousand to go thru... Basically. The crossmember consists of a piece of c channel. I used all 4 trans bolt holes into that. Then took two jeep control arm bushings and used Dom tube to make holders for the bushings. Welded them to the c channel and welded brackets on the frame. I'll get some pics up asap. Sounds simple but there was quite a bit of measuring and doodleing...
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:19 PM   #47
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I can get some pics up. I have them but need to go thru them. I have about a thousand to go thru... Basically. The crossmember consists of a piece of c channel. I used all 4 trans bolt holes into that. Then took two jeep control arm bushings and used Dom tube to make holders for the bushings. Welded them to the c channel and welded brackets on the frame. I'll get some pics up asap. Sounds simple but there was quite a bit of measuring and doodleing...
Your cross member sounds pretty similar to others that I've seen. For others that are interested, both Barnes and Gen-Right make cross member kits:

Crossmember Mounting Set

Gen-Right 4 Link Rear Bracket Kit
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:36 PM   #48
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kilby has a nice belly skid and no need for cross member
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:28 PM   #49
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Best pics i could get for now with no skid. Skid ones to come later...











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Old 05-08-2013, 06:29 PM   #50
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kilby has a nice belly skid and no need for cross member
I thought about no cross member but it makes things better to get to with out the need for craziness with the skid plate when needing to access the trans.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:30 PM   #51
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is anyone using the Kilby skid? Im kind of liking it.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:33 PM   #52
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YAM- what spring plates/skids are you using?
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:44 PM   #53
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Made them. I have pics of them going together. Just can't find them right now. sry. I'll get em eventually. LOL!
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:46 PM   #54
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I was wondering if they were home made, theyre pretty sweet
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:47 PM   #55
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thanks! Tough as nails too! I looked at some that you can buy and they seemed a bit weak. I am sure they work great but for about $10 in steel and a little time i get them the way i want them.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:42 PM   #56
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Best pics i could get for now with no skid. Skid ones to come later...











Looks great!

Did you notice any additional vibration from the more solid transmission mount? The factory mount is thick and "squishy". I'm asking because my Brown Dog poly motor mounts transmit a bunch more engine vibe into the Jeep.

Also, what method did you use to clock the TC?
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:31 PM   #57
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Thanks!

Yes, i get more vibration. Not too bad but i am gonna try to dampen it some here and there.... No clock on t case.

Totally stock.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:03 AM   #58
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Thanks!

Yes, i get more vibration. Not too bad but i am gonna try to dampen it some here and there.... No clock on t case.

Totally stock.
Interesting...would a TC clock saved you that 1" of clearance work on the tub? I'm trying to decide if I need to buy a clock ring or not. It seems like it can't hurt and will provide a little extra clearance. I'll have the TC out for the SYE, so it'll be easy to install.

My general plan:

1) 1" BL (done)
2) 1" MML (done)
steps 3-7 all at the same time
3) Install SYE
4) Install Clock Ring (if necessary)
5) Make Crossmember
6) Adjust pinion angle
7) Driveshafts
(shortened XJ in rear; new in front because my slip joint is worn and I'm getting vibes)
8) Flat Skid from Barnes 4x4

BFH (big f***ing hammer) will be used as needed during any of these steps

Exhaust system adjustment will have to happen in there somewhere. Maybe after driveshafts.

Thoughts? Am I missing anything?
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:56 AM   #59
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I want to do this so bad, with it being a dd I'd rather wait
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:48 PM   #60
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I want to do this so bad, with it being a dd I'd rather wait
Yes, if its your only vehicle, then it would be a big project. I imagine it will take the Jeep out of commission for at least a couple of weekends.

Maybe 3 weekends, depending on the driveshaft timing.

If I was really efficient (and lucky!), I could get it done in one weekend + a few days to get the rear DS shortened locally. Murphy will never let that happen

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