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Old 02-16-2013, 03:22 AM   #1
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tummy tuck

how hard is it to do a tummy tuck and what all do i need for it on a yj

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Old 02-16-2013, 07:40 AM   #2
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depends how high you wanna go. Raising it a little bit can be done somewhat easy. I went all the way flat and it was quite a bit more work.


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Old 02-16-2013, 11:27 AM   #3
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I'm knee deep into my tummy tuck and its a good amount of work. clocking the t-case helps along with being willing to cut the floor.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:37 AM   #4
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how difficukt is it to get it flat like that? and what do you mean clock the t case
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:11 AM   #5
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Cut bottom of tub, I have a teralow that i think comes slightly clocked, make new high clearance trans mount, redo exhaust, wheelbase stretch, etc.

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Old 02-17-2013, 11:32 AM   #6
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that sounds like a project and a half
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:58 AM   #7
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you can also add a 1in body lift but you already have a tall rig so I would say cut the floor.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:21 PM   #8
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I would say at least a 3-4 in rear stretch required. When I had.the 4.5sua springs amd axle moved back like 1 1/2 in I had to grind the crap out of my rear shaft to get more travel out of it. And it would still bind and full droop. Now with 6 1/2 stretch my driveshaft is happy. .
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:15 PM   #9
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6 1/2 stretch seems huge
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:29 PM   #10
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you dont have to stretch shit do a 1 inch mml is perty much all is needed
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Tyler92yj View Post
you dont have to stretch shit do a 1 inch mml is perty much all is needed
I'm thinking the same thing. I already have 1" BL, SYE + CV-drive shaft in addition to my 4" RC so will be considering the 1" MML soon in order to do the TUMMY TUCK. The only thing that worries me in the Transmission mount. Anyway I'm reading every thread about the subject and saving all pictures.

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Old 02-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #12
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trans mount is easy. piece of 2in box with bushing at the ends weld a small piece of 2 inch angle to it drill 2 holes and your good to go. no need to make it overly complicated
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:17 AM   #13
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so basically a body lift motor mou.t lift and a sye then i can add a flad sheet of metal?
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:18 AM   #14
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so basically a body lift motor mou.t lift and a sye then i can add a flad sheet of metal?
You are going to have to modify the bottom of the tub. And Unless your suspension doesnt flex, your rear driveshaft isnt going to last. This is coming from someone that actually did it, not someone that read it on the internet.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:24 AM   #15
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what do you mean it wont last?
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #16
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what do you mean it wont last?


I mentioned it earlier. With stock wheelbase and a flat skid and a 4in lift, the driveshaft is basically maxed out at the CV at ride height.

Thats why I said you need a stretch to do it right. It takes some of the angle out of the shaft.
I had to break the ball on my cv and grind a bunch to clearance it so it wouldnt bind. This ruined the shaft quickly and it vibrated bad.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:35 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Norcal_Chris View Post

I mentioned it earlier. With stock wheelbase and a flat skid and a 4in lift, the driveshaft is basically maxed out at the CV at ride height.

Thats why I said you need a stretch to do it right. It takes some of the angle out of the shaft.
I had to break the ball on my cv and grind a bunch to clearance it so it wouldnt bind. This ruined the shaft quickly and it vibrated bad.
can i have a pic of your rig streched 6 and a half inches
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:55 PM   #18
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adjust your pinion angle to fix the problem with the cv shaft i know plenty of ppl with flat belly and no strech
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #19
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So if I were to do 3" total lift with 2 stretch front and rear with a 1.25" body lift with a SYE

Would a clocked up, flat belly (or near flat) tuck work?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:34 PM   #20
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adjust your pinion angle to fix the problem with the cv shaft i know plenty of ppl with flat belly and no strech


Show me a picture.


With the pinion pointed exactly at the t case with the driveshaft alighned with the pinion like it is supposed to be, a stock 1310 cv with the transfer case raised flat gives your driveshaft less than 1 inch of downtravel before it stops. I know how to set up pinion angle.

Maybe with a super short sye and a little less lift it would work. But I have done this twice and it was the same thing, twice.



And Ian you can find pics in my build thread.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:42 PM   #21
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okay cool, i might do this later on
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:23 AM   #22
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Mine had the body lift when I got it, so I replaced my skidplate with a flat one (like the picture above) from Barnes. The Body lift is enough to clear the flat plate and keep everything up nice and tight.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:20 AM   #23
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Mine had the body lift when I got it, so I replaced my skidplate with a flat one (like the picture above) from Barnes. The Body lift is enough to clear the flat plate and keep everything up nice and tight.
Howed that effect your driveshaft?
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:43 AM   #24
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Howed that effect your driveshaft?
I needed a new driveshaft anyway, as I was going to SYE and did the SOA. That said, raw measurement I'm about 6" longer driveshaft than when I started.

Denis
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:19 AM   #25
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I needed a new driveshaft anyway, as I was going to SYE and did the SOA. That said, raw measurement I'm about 6" longer driveshaft than when I started.

Denis
whatd you do about angles?
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:05 PM   #26
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whatd you do about angles?
Since my setup uses CV/Double Cardon, didn't have to do much. My buddy Nick welded the perches on to the 8.8 after the lift springs were already installed so it was easy enough to get the driveline correct. With the body lift, I had room to clock the t-case to the right angle and the driveshaft lines right up.

Denis
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:36 PM   #27
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Since my setup uses CV/Double Cardon, didn't have to do much. My buddy Nick welded the perches on to the 8.8 after the lift springs were already installed so it was easy enough to get the driveline correct. With the body lift, I had room to clock the t-case to the right angle and the driveshaft lines right up.

Denis
sweet! im.gonna end up with a sye soon so i may do this
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:40 AM   #28
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How do you clock the t-case?

Wouldn't you need to buy/fab an adapter plate in order to do that?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:50 AM   #29
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How do you clock the t-case?

Wouldn't you need to buy/fab an adapter plate in order to do that?
I was wondering the same.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:16 AM   #30
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i think you just push it up

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