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Old 08-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #1
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U Joint Brands

I want them to LAST.

My choices locally are:
1. Duralast Gold
2. NAPA
3. Precision

Any word on which brands are best/worst? I watched a video about replacing u joints that recommended getting ones with the grease fitting on the end cap not in the body (cross) for better strength.
He also recommended MOOG parts but I don't think I have access to that brand locally. My rear joint is about ready to drop so I need to replace it yesterday. I'm going to keep this jeep forever so I don't want to go cheap.

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Old 08-06-2014, 04:47 PM   #2
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I would stay away from napa crap either moog or spicer most auto parts stores carry both if you ask.

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Old 08-06-2014, 06:58 PM   #3
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I've had duralast for a couple years. They're pretty shitty. I've already had to replace a couple. Which were under warranty at least so it was free. But I'd def go spicer if I do them again. Greasable. Obviously
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:41 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jlange View Post
I want them to LAST.

My choices locally are:
1. Duralast Gold
2. NAPA
3. Precision

Any word on which brands are best/worst? I watched a video about replacing u joints that recommended getting ones with the grease fitting on the end cap not in the body (cross) for better strength.
He also recommended MOOG parts but I don't think I have access to that brand locally. My rear joint is about ready to drop so I need to replace it yesterday. I'm going to keep this jeep forever so I don't want to go cheap.
Driveshaft U-joints I use only Tom Woods gold seal for cv style shafts (because they have a great warranty and the zerk fitting is on the cap) or Spicer for normal shafts since they are tough for serviceable joints. Online is usually the cheapest place to get good quality joints for cheap.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:02 PM   #5
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I called NAPA because they don't show the manufacturer names online and asked for the highest quality u joint with zerk in the cap. He gave me part no. PUJ 280. I asked who makes it and he said Mogul. I searched "Mogul universal joints" and it looks like Moog is a brand owned by Federal-Mogul. So NAPA does carry the Moog Super Strength U joint (part no. PUJ 280). That's how it appears to me...unless I'm missing something....
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:08 PM   #6
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I called NAPA because they don't show the manufacturer names online and asked for the highest quality u joint with zerk in the cap. He gave me part no. PUJ 280. I asked who makes it and he said Mogul. I searched "Mogul universal joints" and it looks like Moog is a brand owned by Federal-Mogul. So NAPA does carry the Moog Super Strength U joint (part no. PUJ 280). That's how it appears to me...unless I'm missing something....
Rock auto.com. Will be cheaper usually and has moog
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:30 PM   #7
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Moog/precision is a federal-mogul company and is carried by napa. I got the moog super strength joints off rock auto for like $7 a piece.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:39 PM   #8
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Yep, rockauto.com is less than half the price > $11.38 (good call) but the cheapest shipping is priority (3-4 days to Alaska) at $10.17 So that puts the total at $21.55 and I need these joints like yesterday. I'll pick them up tomorrow and do my first Jeep repair!
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:00 AM   #9
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Rock auto can kill you on shipping in the lower 48.

I can only imagine what they would charge to AK

If you do your research NAPA does carry a lot of quality parts.

I was looking for bearings once...they had SKF/FAG brand. didn't sound good till I looked it up.Svenska Kullager Fabriken . Swedish designed, German made at the Schweinfurt Bearing Werks that we bombed all the time in Hogans Heros
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:57 AM   #10
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SKF/FAG are some of, if not the best you can get, we used them all the time on Large Gear boxes at Exxon, when I say large I'm talking like 20" to 30" shaft sizes, 500 mm to 800 mm, Big Poo Poo!
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:04 PM   #11
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dana spicer... usually order form drivetrain america.
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:49 PM   #12
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I agree with 4jeepn. Dana Spicer for u jounts. I also agree with Nubby55...SKF/FAG are the best bearings out there.
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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^^^^ and the kid with the tattoos & pony-tail who likes reggae music living down the street for regular Joints!!!

Haahhaa.....kidding! Jheesh just trying to make a joke. Lighten up, will ya!
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:51 PM   #14
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SKF/FAG are some of, if not the best you can get, we used them all the time on Large Gear boxes at Exxon, when I say large I'm talking like 20" to 30" shaft sizes, 500 mm to 800 mm, Big Poo Poo!
Gotta agree. I used to manage a bearing company's We had all sorts of bearings and I was suprjsed that timken is junk and we supplied all sorts of mines
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:11 AM   #15
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I went with the NAPA (Mogul Super Strength) brand. It looks the same as the Moog and Precision pictures I found online. The one I replaced also looks like the same manufacturer except just a little more beat up. I hope this isn't a bad sign...lol
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:36 AM   #16
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I went with the NAPA (Mogul Super Strength) brand. It looks the same as the Moog and Precision pictures I found online. The one I replaced also looks like the same manufacturer except just a little more beat up. I hope this isn't a bad sign...lol
that is some major damage to the surface.. never seen that before.. does the jeep have a lift?
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:52 AM   #17
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Yes, 4 inch I think. I purchased it last weekend so I'm not sure what it's been through...
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:07 AM   #18
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Yes, 4 inch I think. I purchased it last weekend so I'm not sure what it's been through...
Does it have a SYE/CV driveshaft just a transfer-case drop? I will guess the drive shaft might not be to the correct angle.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:28 AM   #19
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I'm running CTM Racing U-Joints, no bearings, Bronze Sleeve, CNC machined from aircraft quality 300M, and a Lifetime Warranty Against Breakage. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-10-2014, 10:34 PM   #20
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I'm running CTM Racing U-Joints, no bearings, Bronze Sleeve, CNC machined from aircraft quality 300M, and a Lifetime Warranty Against Breakage.
You can buy lots of napa ujoints for the price of one of ctm's. $300 each? Don't think so, but to each their own!
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:41 AM   #21
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You can buy lots of napa ujoints for the price of one of ctm's. $300 each? Don't think so, but to each their own!
Actually no.. I paid 378$ for the pair shipped through my local off-road shop..

CTM's have no needle bearings... which allows for the ujoint cross section ends to be larger... plus the 300M material is far superior to the "standard" material.

The caps are sleeved with bronze, and rebuild-able, plus a lifetime warranty.

I believe in paying more for a better product, CTM is one of those.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:37 AM   #22
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Actually no.. I paid 378$ for the pair shipped through my local off-road shop..

CTM's have no needle bearings... which allows for the ujoint cross section ends to be larger... plus the 300M material is far superior to the "standard" material.

The caps are sleeved with bronze, and rebuild-able, plus a lifetime warranty.

I believe in paying more for a better product, CTM is one of those.
X2 I use ctm in my axle shafts
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:41 AM   #23
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Wow, it looks like those ujoints can handle some extreme conditions! So I've owned a Jeep for a couple weeks now and have very little knowledge as of yet. From what you said a lift changes the angle of the drive shaft. But I crawled under mine just now and I think I have a body lift rather than a suspension lift. See pics. And that wouldn't change my drive shaft angle from what I can see. Correct?
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:26 AM   #24
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^^^Your skid plate has spacers, so chances are you also have a suspension lift.

You should fix the leak on the rear diff seal also!
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:08 PM   #25
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Actually no.. I paid 378$ for the pair shipped through my local off-road shop.. CTM's have no needle bearings... which allows for the ujoint cross section ends to be larger... plus the 300M material is far superior to the "standard" material. The caps are sleeved with bronze, and rebuild-able, plus a lifetime warranty. I believe in paying more for a better product, CTM is one of those.
Oh ok, website I briefly saw said that. Either way $378 for two u joints... Nah. Again, to each their own!
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:19 PM   #26
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From the look of the joint you removed you should have saved your money and just buffed that out.
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:29 PM   #27
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Oh ok, website I briefly saw said that. Either way $378 for two u joints... Nah. Again, to each their own!
There is a reason for this...and they arent for every wheeler. Think of it this way...when an axle shaft "typically" breaks...what breaks? The ears on the end of the shaft tend to stretch or break.

Move forward to the point where you find yourself on more difficult trails where an axle shaft failure is common. You now bring yourself to spend the extra money to upgrade to chromoly axle shafts to avoid this damage in the future. You didn't spend all of that money for the ears on the axle shaft to continue breaking...so what is the next weakest link...U joints.

Like you said...to each their own. Others may argue "ya, well i can buy a lot of stock replacements for the cost of chromo shafts and heavy duty joints" but in reality, do you really want to be in the middle of the trail constantly fixing that kind of stuff when its almost completely avoidable? Sometimes you gotta spend big to play big. Just some food for thought is all
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:18 PM   #28
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There is a reason for this...and they arent for every wheeler. Think of it this way...when an axle shaft "typically" breaks...what breaks? The ears on the end of the shaft tend to stretch or break. Move forward to the point where you find yourself on more difficult trails where an axle shaft failure is common. You now bring yourself to spend the extra money to upgrade to chromoly axle shafts to avoid this damage in the future. You didn't spend all of that money for the ears on the axle shaft to continue breaking...so what is the next weakest link...U joints. Like you said...to each their own. Others may argue "ya, well i can buy a lot of stock replacements for the cost of chromo shafts and heavy duty joints" but in reality, do you really want to be in the middle of the trail constantly fixing that kind of stuff when its almost completely avoidable? Sometimes you gotta spend big to play big. Just some food for thought is all
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:40 PM   #29
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I'm running CTM Racing U-Joints, no bearings, Bronze Sleeve, CNC machined from aircraft quality 300M, and a Lifetime Warranty Against Breakage. Attachment 1373913 Attachment 1373921
That is Great but the everyday Guy will not grease them as they need and they will not last as long as the standard stuff on the road with out being greased a lot, But That Is First Class For Racing With High HP!
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:44 PM   #30
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^he lives on top of Death Valley.. Ask me how I know! Not a place you want to break down!

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you mean youve heard of Ridgecrest?!

Funny thing is...no CTM joints here. Ive pushed the limits of the factory shafts and Spicer joints. Once they finally give, I will definitely be going the direction of chromo shafts a quality joint such as the CTMs.

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