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Old 01-03-2010, 06:15 PM   #1
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universal aircleaner and vacuum lines

I picked up a universal air cleaner at autozone earlier, its the kind that just goes on top of the carb. I'm not expecting any power increase or anything, I just got it to clean up under the hood a little. Now my question is, do I need to make any provisions for the vacuum lines on the factory air cleaner assembly. They're defferent ones running every where on the thing, and I don't know what most of them go to. So can yall help? TIA, Jon.

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Old 01-03-2010, 07:11 PM   #2
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If you have the 4.2 and do the nutter bypass you can remove 96 % of the vacuum lines in the engine bay. The only lines I kept of the carb is the pcv and the vacuum advance line.

scott

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Old 01-03-2010, 08:50 PM   #3
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I've been wanting to nutter it, but I don't know if I can do it. I wish they're was someone around to help me, but there's not.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:28 PM   #4
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The nutter bypass very easy all you do is cut the org. wire at the dist. add a wire long enough to reach the icm mounted under the overflow tank on the fender wall cut the org wire on the icm and put the wire you hook to the org dist wire to it.....half way done!!
now go back to the dist. cut the purple wire and another length of wire run it over to the icm cut the purple wire and and the wire you put on the purple one off the dist. to it and your done.

If you want to make it clean looking buy some plastic wire cover from the parts store for a couple bucks and tuck them in zip tie it up and you will have a nuttered yj the will rev better start better get better mpg and you can throw away most of the useless vacuum lines in the engine bay.

call me on the phone when your doing it and I will talk you thru it.

I can send you pics of how much stuff i took off of mine if you would like.

scott howard
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showard@xanadoo.com

This is a Picture Guide to Nutter Bypass
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:49 PM   #5
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Thanks for the help. I've been reading through the nutter bypass write up on 4x4 wire, and I'm understanding most of it. But you nor the gut that did the write up on jeep forum have mentioned anything about the timing part or rerouting the vaccum line that's mentioned. Rerouting the vac. line doesn't sound bad, but its the timing that I'm probably gonna have trouble with. Thanks for any help?
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:06 PM   #6
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I hope that after talking with you on the phone your more comfortable with setting the timing and the vacuum line question.
And there is one more thing .
You will want to readjust your carb air setting to go with your new air filter set up.
Now you also know that you will never be really at peak performance with the carter carb
and the best thing you can do is replace it with the motorcraft 2100, but one step at a time will get you to where your headed.

Give me a call if you need anymore help.

scott
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:06 PM   #7
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I'm not lookin for peak performance yet. Later this year when I get done with all my training and I've got my signing bonus and a few months pay I'm dropping in a golen engine, with an offenhauser intake and a 4bbl, and an nv 3550 and atlas 4 speed.
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:07 PM   #8
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hey Scott u wouldn't happen to know were a huy could get a mc2100 that dont cost an arm and a leg
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:31 PM   #9
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Morphious you can find them at the local junk yards off the old late 70 and 80 model ford in line 6 trucks and pick one up for 50 bucks and rebuild it ( $40) and re-jet it for where you live and then get the adapter at your local parts store ( mr gasket # 1937 for $20 ) and the heat gasket spacer for $7
Or you can get one from the guy I got mine from already rebuilt, jetted and air screw set for start up with adapter and heat spacer gasket and instructions both by phone and internet for between $150 and $185 depending on choke set up.
I know where two are in the junk yards but I went with the man who has years of carb rebuilding knowledge hook me up and what a difference .
You have to make a linkage for the mc2100 because it is made for the cable to pull it straight back instead of down like on the carter but it is easy to do . If you have a man. trans you can make it either a back pull or down pull. If you have a auto tran it has to be a down pull set up. And either mod is pretty easy to make or a guy on ebay will sell you a linkage mod for $125 it is bolt on easy but about 110 profit his way...lol

Let me know if you need my carb guys link

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Old 02-13-2010, 12:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by scott howard View Post
Morphious you can find them at the local junk yards off the old late 70 and 80 model ford in line 6 trucks and pick one up for 50 bucks and rebuild it ( $40) and re-jet it for where you live and then get the adapter at your local parts store ( mr gasket # 1937 for $20 ) and the heat gasket spacer for $7
Or you can get one from the guy I got mine from already rebuilt, jetted and air screw set for start up with adapter and heat spacer gasket and instructions both by phone and internet for between $150 and $185 depending on choke set up.
I know where two are in the junk yards but I went with the man who has years of carb rebuilding knowledge hook me up and what a difference .
You have to make a linkage for the mc2100 because it is made for the cable to pull it straight back instead of down like on the carter but it is easy to do . If you have a man. trans you can make it either a back pull or down pull. If you have a auto tran it has to be a down pull set up. And either mod is pretty easy to make or a guy on ebay will sell you a linkage mod for $125 it is bolt on easy but about 110 profit his way...lol

Let me know if you need my carb guys link

scott howard
showard@xanadoo.com
940-923-8118
scott- sounds like you're the man i need to talk to. i bought this kit off of ebay for $300 and it's been headache after headache trying to get it to run right. i gave up and took it to a mechanic today and he said there are still vacuum leaks. he said the biggest one is at the throttle linkage. he showed me where he sprayed starting fluid and the RPMS ramped up. i experience poor performance (sputtering/popping and puffing at the exhaust and unstable idle) when it gets warmed up and it has been running for about 20-30 minutes.

the kit didn't come with a heat spacer and i'm not too sure where i can find the seals for where the throttle linkage connects to the carb and out the other side.

i need help!!

thanks

carlos 702-292-6697
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Old 02-13-2010, 05:46 PM   #11
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Hey carlyj is this the 289.00 kit from the guy that sold thousands of them on e-bay? I was about two days away from buying one. Are you saying that they do not work? Would you say to not get one. Just curious i dont wanna waste money you know.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:15 AM   #12
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Hey carlyj is this the 289.00 kit from the guy that sold thousands of them on e-bay? I was about two days away from buying one. Are you saying that they do not work? Would you say to not get one. Just curious i dont wanna waste money you know.
The same exact guy. I'm not here to bad mouth. I'm sure he's done tons of business with thousands of satisfied customers. All I'm saying is that this carb is advertised as bolt-on and ready to go and I've had a lesser experience. He's had to ship me two carburetors which i still have both and i haven't been able to get either of them working correctly. I take it to mechanics and they tell me the same thing, 'vacuum leak, can't adjust it correctly until it's fixed'. I had the first carb he sent me completely break off at the base on the arm; i'm talking DETERIORATED. He offers help, but I guess only when he has time. I've tried calling him and emailing him on several occasions only to get left with his voicemail and wondering how to get my YJ running

if i can't get it running right this weekend, i'm going to drop the money for the howell system and say good riddance to this carbureted crap.
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:03 AM   #13
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The nutter is only for the 6 cylinder- correct.. not for a 2.5l fuel injected?
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:41 PM   #14
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I got one from the guy on e-bay and had no real big problems just a stuck float which he walked me thru on the phone to repair/adjust. The vacuum leaks could be between spacer/adapter and intake you may just need to use some RTV between everything? Keep trying to reach him on the phone sometimes he is hard to reach but when you do he can usually help! The hardest part for me was fabing the linkage! Also be careful when you remove all the vacuum lines you don't screw up your 4X4--Ask me how I know!
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Old 02-14-2010, 03:26 PM   #15
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The nutter is only for the 6 cylinder- correct.. not for a 2.5l fuel injected?
that is correct the nutter bypass is for the 4.2 only
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:26 PM   #16
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that is correct the nutter bypass is for the 4.2 only
thanks Scott.

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