Stretching your YJ with Wagoneer leafs! If something is unclear just ask. I will add things as needed because I'm sure I missed something.
Some quick pointers before we get started.
I realized that 2" front stretch is the MAX possible. Don't use offset perches as I ran into some steering interference with mine at 3". The rear can only do 2" with out major modification due to the fuel tank and rear wheel wells. We are looking at a 4" stretch total (Front/Rear). I'm very happy with mine so far. I already have a SOA done on mine and I will not be going through shock placement/brake line etc, but you should have a good idea about the waggy spring swap.
First things first. Spring location and type. The front springs off of a wagoneer are the only ones to be used. They are 1" longer than stock YJ springs, but there is a 2" offset with the centering pin. The rears can not be used on our YJ's without serious modification. I'm almost certain you can use any of them from 76-91 wagoneers as long as they are fronts. Look closely to make sure that they are 44" long with the center pin being at 21"/23"(offset). On top of the 2" stretch from these leafs, they also provide 2" of lift if you get stock wagoneer leafs. Most people recommend that you use the seven leaf ones. You can find these at most salvage yards. If you want to buy them new you can, but hang on to your wallet!
Jack up your vehicle and place jack stands underneath your frame. I placed mine here:
Remove your tires and let your suspension drop all the way. You need to measure your pinion angle. I placed a degree gauge at the bottom of the differential. You can do this like I am with your suspension at full droop or you can measure it before you jack up your jeep. (I prefer to do it when its at full drop as it makes it easier to check when mocking up)
mine shows 20 degress.
Now you can support that rear axle on jack stands as you will be unbolting it. Take off your Drive shaft and the U-bolts.
After you have done all the U-bolts, disconnect your Leaf hanger bolts. NOTE: I did not remove my shocks or brake lines to do this.
Prep your new springs and make sure that the centering pin is located for your application (SOA or SUA) If it isn't then flip it around!
Place your new springs into the hangers. make sure that you have it the right direction. Remember there offset! You might have noticed that the fixed hanger on the frame has the correct size bolt, but the shackle hanger is a smaller bolt. Drill your shackles out to 9/16 and go get some 9/16 bolts to replace them. (You will need four total if you are doing the front and rear stretch) Bolt them up and let the springs hang.
Remember that pinion angle measurement we took? I hope you wrote that down. Go ahead and set your axle on the center pins. Measure your pinion angle again. Obviously, you need to do this the same way you did prior. Mine was off by 4 degrees after the waggy springs. I bought 4 degree shims and placed them in the leafs. If you are doing a SOA at the same time set your pinion angle and weld your perches on. When doing this on the front of your YJ you want your pinion angle identical to stock. That way you won't mess with your caster! I don't need any angry people coming after me when there steering is all fudged up.
If you have your shims in and your all set go ahead and do the finally assembly of torquing your u-bolts. Make sure that you don't max your brake lines/breather hose and shocks after this. Replace your tires and set your jeep back on the ground. Torque all your hangers to spec and then bounce your vehicle to let it settle. Measure for new drive lines! I will order mine on Monday.
The procedure is the same for the front and the rear with the exception of your caster in the front and you might want to trim some in the rear.
Here is a picture of my rear afterwards. I plan on installing TJ flares and doing some trimming to get the wheel well centered again.
This is the front with out the rear stretched. I will post some final pictures when I get my shafts and drive it out of the garage. I don't want to push it as I have done enough physical labor for the day.
1992 Jeep YJ 4.0/AW4/ATLAS
60's on 40s
i went out to get some springs today and wasn't really paying attention to the year of wagoneer to get from.. i pulled mine from a 71, which ive found from some searching they are 44 inches long compared to a 45 inch long of a YJ.. I'm not necessarily looking to do a wheelbase stretch and people might inquire as to why im bothering with the swap anyway.. Well where i live the pull it yourself style junkyard they're $13 a spring.. and they dont have any wranglers at that junk yard because the parts are worth more.. so at the other junkyard they're about $45 per spring.. so im just looking to swap in less expensive springs..
Short story long, i did a bit of research to see what years would work and as you noted 76-91 fit, but i believe 74-75 fit as well, the rear springs were different but the fronts matched up to the 76+.. only thing im not sure of is if those came in 7 leaf packs.. they did have a 74 at the junkyard that had a 2 leaf pack.. Just thought i'd chime in since i'm doing this mod myself
Looks good...real good...I like how the opened wheel wells look with the tj flare..very subtle....do you notice the 4 inch stretch in ride quality on the street?
Actually I do notice better road manners. It handles good and the ride isn't so stiff, but that was probably my old springs.
Your correct on the flares hiding the stretch. You have to know jeeps and take a good look at it to realize its actually stretched. Check out the pic with the old YJ flares earlier in the thread to compare.
1992 Jeep YJ 4.0/AW4/ATLAS
60's on 40s