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Old 11-17-2013, 12:16 PM   #1
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Question wanting to do a 4.88 swap on my YJ

I am trying to find a detailed post as to exactly what I need to perform this. Any one out there have there shopping list from when they did it? I am trying to budget correctly and ensure that I have an accurate estimate the first time. 1995 YJ 5" BDS suspension lift 33" Toyo Mud Terrains 2.5L 4 Banger. Stock axles.

Also am considering going with the 8.8 but am worried as to whether or not I will have the money to do that as well.

Open to suggestions, would LOVE to find someone's old axles from there YJ. Or open to POSSIBLY going with Dana 40 and 44....Not sure...this is my first YJ only ever had a Cherokee with the stock axles before this.

Thankfully I do have mechanical knowledge, friends with lots more knowledge than I and 98% of the tools I will ever need.

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Old 11-17-2013, 09:04 PM   #2
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if your going to spend the money for an axle swap and your going to run 35" or larger tires, go with an 8.8 Ford and don't wast that much time and money on a D35. They good for 33"s and down that aren't ran hard. JMO

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Old 11-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #3
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Definitely do the 8.8 swap. You can get one for pretty cheap.

Probably figure on 3-350 per axle for quality r&p, bearings, shims...

The carrier in the d30 could be stronger so going with a full carrier locker would be the right way to do it in my opinion. 500-1000 bucks depending on how fancy you get..

I am doing an 8.8 swap, building a d30 mildly and going 4.88 and SOA. I have budgeted 1400 bucks for just building the axles and am doing all the work myself. Im really taking my time and finding deals on parts as much as possible. I will have some stuff to sell when Im done to recover costs as well.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:01 PM   #4
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Definitely do the 8.8 swap. You can get one for pretty cheap.

Probably figure on 3-350 per axle for quality r&p, bearings, shims...

The carrier in the d30 could be stronger so going with a full carrier locker would be the right way to do it in my opinion. 500-1000 bucks depending on how fancy you get..

I am doing an 8.8 swap, building a d30 mildly and going 4.88 and SOA. I have budgeted 1400 bucks for just building the axles and am doing all the work myself. Im really taking my time and finding deals on parts as much as possible. I will have some stuff to sell when Im done to recover costs as well.
You're regearing on your own? Better know what you're doing man. I have all the tools and ability to do it myself correctly, yet I take it to my friend who'll do the labor for $150 an axle. Much better than me getting frustrated especially when the lady comes in to "talk" while I'm doing precise measurements and steps.....
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:53 AM   #5
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I am gonna do my gears myself. Check and double check and if it's wrong fix it so it's right.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:11 AM   #6
Guesses a lot ;)

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You're regearing on your own? Better know what you're doing man. I have all the tools and ability to do it myself correctly, yet I take it to my friend who'll do the labor for $150 an axle. Much better than me getting frustrated especially when the lady comes in to "talk" while I'm doing precise measurements and steps.....
Yep. I aint gonna learn any younger...lol. I have axles to swap in so I have all the time I need to get it right while the jeep is still on the trail.

I got the run down from some friends that will come double check my work and I did quite a bit of reading. It cant be that hard. I know some real morons that are certified mechanics...
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:41 AM   #7
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I like that 'aint gonna learn any younger.' I dont think I will learn new things by paying a shop to do it for me, that's how I look at it.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:32 PM   #8
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Do y'all have all the tools though? That's the real question. And I hope you'll start with the Dana 30 as it is the most forgiving....
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
Guesses a lot ;)

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I think all I need is dummy bearings. My uncle sold me a mac 8 drawer roll away when he closed his shop. When he dropped it off all the drawers were out of it cause it was loaded with tools. Plus 3 rubbermade totes of stuff he thought I might need. Some of them I still dont know what they are...lol If I am missing something I need I would rather buy tools than pay labor.

This is the first but wont be the last set of axles I build. I figure I have a good 30-35 years of wrenching left in me and I go to more extent with each rig I get so I better figure stuff out as I go or the builds are gonna take that much longer due to funds going to other people instead of my build... If I was planning on just this set of axles I would surely just take it to someone.

Figure I build only 10 sets of axles over the rest of my life. 3-400 bucks each set just for gear labor adds up. Even if I screw this go round up 2-3 times those costs will be recovered over time.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:34 AM   #10
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The only tool needed that most guys dont have is the gauge (can't remember the name) to read the backlash. As ORP said I would rather add tools to my collection than pay labor and learn nothing. In my opinion you can't put a price on learning a new skill.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:09 AM   #11
Guesses a lot ;)

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Dial indicator?
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 4x4kuntryboy View Post
I am trying to find a detailed post as to exactly what I need to perform this. Any one out there have there shopping list from when they did it? I am trying to budget correctly and ensure that I have an accurate estimate the first time. 1995 YJ 5" BDS suspension lift 33" Toyo Mud Terrains 2.5L 4 Banger. Stock axles.

Also am considering going with the 8.8 but am worried as to whether or not I will have the money to do that as well.

Open to suggestions, would LOVE to find someone's old axles from there YJ. Or open to POSSIBLY going with Dana 40 and 44....Not sure...this is my first YJ only ever had a Cherokee with the stock axles before this.

Thankfully I do have mechanical knowledge, friends with lots more knowledge than I and 98% of the tools I will ever need.
Just a thought - have you considered an engine swap for more power instead of a gear change? That's the approach that I am taking. 4.88 gears will be good, but the 2.5L is still underpowered for my purposes. So, I'm planning for a 4.0L/AX15 upgrade, possibly a 4.6L stroker, and keeping the stock 4.10 gears. I've got almost all the parts already, and might tackle the actual swap sometime next year.

+1 for not putting any money into the Dana 35. The 8.8 is an awesome upgrade. You can look at my 8.8 swap costs - see my sig. It could definitely be done cheaper than I did it, but I'm comfortable with the result and costs.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:01 AM   #13
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The 8.8 and then 4:88s do a lot for the mighty fourbanger but it is still under powered. Long hills I still get slow. On the highway at 70 turning almost 3K for two hours has to take it till after a while.

So if you are not emotionally attached or have to much invested you could find another with the 4.0 or spend the time and money and do an engine swap. I am looking at an LS1/2 swap in the future.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:25 PM   #14
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In my opinion more power does not replace deeper gearing. Maybe in the mud or sand, but on the tight trails I run more power is not nearly as important as the right gearing. I could have all the power I want on tap but much of the time I just need to crawl. Less chance of breaking stuff by using gearing instead of the skinney pedal as well.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:39 PM   #15
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In my opinion more power does not replace deeper gearing. Maybe in the mud or sand, but on the tight trails I run more power is not nearly as important as the right gearing. I could have all the power I want on tap but much of the time I just need to crawl. Less chance of breaking stuff by using gearing instead of the skinney pedal as well.
Agreed, but when you are on the highway with the AC running, you need power not gearing
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:15 PM   #16
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^ True. But having gearing proportionate to your tires will help. I just don't think its one or the other. I am building a 4.6 stroker because power is good, but I plan to gear down to 4.88's later as well.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:34 PM   #17
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^ True. But having gearing proportionate to your tires will help. I just don't think its one or the other. I am building a 4.6 stroker because power is good, but I plan to gear down to 4.88's later as well.
We're in complete agreement. I'm thinking about a 4:1 transfer case with my stock 4.10 gears for better offroad crawling.

As far as the original poster goes, it depends on the type of driving he'll be doing. Lots of good advice and options.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #18
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We're in complete agreement. I'm thinking about a 4:1 transfer case with my stock 4.10 gears for better offroad crawling.

As far as the original poster goes, it depends on the type of driving he'll be doing. Lots of good advice and options.
4:1 low on a t-case is much better than you can imagine, I don't even need to use 1st when crawling unless I need to go ultra slow
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:48 PM   #19
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^^ My jeep has such crappy gearing that I have to be in low range to drive the trail in the first place. When I get to an obstacle I don't have nearly the gearing I would like. I think I may have 3.07's. Not sure though. Either way I need deeper axle gears, then when that is right I will start thinking about tcase gearing.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:11 AM   #20
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Unfortunately, a 4:1 Tcase is pretty pricey. It's at least $1000 for the Teralow. An Atlas 2 is about $2000, but has other advantages. A Rubicon 4:1 case might be the cheapest option, but would likely be hard to find. I've got a bunch of other things planned for my Jeep that are higher on the priority list, but, hopefully, I'll get to the 4:1 one of these days! Oops
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:00 AM   #21
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The 8.8 and then 4:88s do a lot for the mighty fourbanger but it is still under powered. Long hills I still get slow. On the highway at 70 turning almost 3K for two hours has to take it till after a while.

So if you are not emotionally attached or have to much invested you could find another with the 4.0 or spend the time and money and do an engine swap. I am looking at an LS1/2 swap in the future.
I will eventually do an engine swap, but I am not to worried about the power right now. I want to get the gear train in order before I throw more power to it. I don't like being stranded lol
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:06 AM   #22
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Another option instead of teralow or atlas is the doubler. 300/231 doubler gives you 3 different ranges. I think 6:1 is common and if you do a super low in the 231 you can get like 10:1. Which would be SWEET! It cost half as much as teralow its self but you need a little stretch to do it. It also gives you your slip yoke eliminator and isnt much bigger than just the 231 with slip yoke. I think norcal_chris provides some good info on it in his build thread... I might have some details wrong but its something along those lines and sounded like a great deal to me.

Really once you get to the 35-36 inch tire range you need a little stretch to be as effective as possible with those tires anyway...
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:37 PM   #23
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Another option instead of teralow or atlas is the doubler. 300/231 doubler gives you 3 different ranges. I think 6:1 is common and if you do a super low in the 231 you can get like 10:1. Which would be SWEET! It cost half as much as teralow its self but you need a little stretch to do it. It also gives you your slip yoke eliminator and isnt much bigger than just the 231 with slip yoke. I think norcal_chris provides some good info on it in his build thread... I might have some details wrong but its something along those lines and sounded like a great deal to me.

Really once you get to the 35-36 inch tire range you need a little stretch to be as effective as possible with those tires anyway...
Uhhhh in new to this. That was Spanish to me man. I appreciate your help and insight though. I don't understand the transfer case gearing and all yet.... Slowly I'm getting there
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:09 PM   #24
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ORP stop making me want to spend money.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:07 PM   #25
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Another option instead of teralow or atlas is the doubler. 300/231 doubler gives you 3 different ranges. I think 6:1 is common and if you do a super low in the 231 you can get like 10:1. Which would be SWEET! It cost half as much as teralow its self but you need a little stretch to do it. It also gives you your slip yoke eliminator and isnt much bigger than just the 231 with slip yoke. I think norcal_chris provides some good info on it in his build thread... I might have some details wrong but its something along those lines and sounded like a great deal to me.

Really once you get to the 35-36 inch tire range you need a little stretch to be as effective as possible with those tires anyway...
I've looked into the doubler just a bit (including the Norcal_Chris build thread). It's probably not a good fit for me because of the reasons that you mentioned. I'm pretty far away from a stretch and a fuel cell. Maybe I'll get there one of these days...

I think the Atlas is shorter than the 231, so it would actually improve driveline angles. But darn its expensive!
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:10 PM   #26
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I've looked into the doubler just a bit (including the Norcal_Chris build thread). It's probably not a good fit for me because of the reasons that you mentioned. I'm pretty far away from a stretch and a fuel cell. Maybe I'll get there one of these days...

I think the Atlas is shorter than the 231, so it would actually improve driveline angles. But darn its expensive!
Well I found my nv3550 tranny and nv241or t-case that has 4:1 from an 05 rubicon for $500. The moron had no idea what he was really selling when parting out his jeep lol. Best of luck to you!
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:18 PM   #27
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Awesome score dude I love finding those deals. I got my ax15 for $80 and sold my peugeot for $220 haha.

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