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Old 01-02-2011, 09:17 PM   #1
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Water pump question

I just installed a water pump on my 87 yj inline 6 cylinder. Wow my lines were shot. Anyway, I got the new one on filled the radiator, and started it. It ran good, but then the air didn't get warm for my heater ( it did prior to install) and after a bit it starts making a screaming noise...could I have not put in enough coolant? I am so frustrated with this and really hope I don't have to take it back. Anyone else face this problem?

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Old 01-02-2011, 10:26 PM   #2
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Did you burp it?
Park it facing up a hill and let it idle for 15 minutes. Once the thermostat opens it will allow any trapped air out of the system by burping out of the reservoir tank.
Not sure about the screaming part. Did you by chance spill some coolant on the belts when you refilled?
Try rinsing off the belts with tap water and see if that doesn't quiet it down.

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Old 01-02-2011, 10:36 PM   #3
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I did spill coolant everywhere :-/. I kept filling it up and I think my radiator is plugged cause I couldn't put as much in there....then I let it sit for a bit and I could get a bunch more in it...hmm I started it with cap off and I see the coolant flowing an moving good. Prolly shoulda just done radiator and heater core while I was at it
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:21 AM   #4
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Just went through pretty much the same thing.... see "Overheating Issues" in the YJ Forum. After replacing the pump and stat it still wanted to act up and overheat... sometimes the heater would be hot and suddenly go cold....

Wrangler Haven's "burping" is the way to go.... if you didn't have issues before it is probably air. Burp it and drive it... unless it's seriously overheating. I put 100+ on mine Sat. and it's got better and better with every mile...

Didn't have any noise.... but that could be the coolant on the belts.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:30 AM   #5
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Hmm this is probably a bad time for my coolant gauge to go out huh? Dang it...hmm another problem. I was also wondering if my heater core is plugged now. The other pump wasnt working so my coolant was nasty, and my radiator look dirty inside when opening the cap. Could the new pump have pumped the gunk to the heater core? I started it with the cap off and filled it and see it circulating and filling up and everything. Problem now is I have no idea if it is overheating ugh I wanted a project lol. Shouldn't of used my dd for the project though huh?
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:40 AM   #6
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The water pump going out shouldn't have made the coolant nasty... straight water will corrode and cause a rusty brown color over time. A good pro flush would be a good place to start.

Bit worried you may have bigger issues.... if your temp gauge is out its possible you may have gotten it way too hot when the pump went out. Check your coolant overflow for an oily residue.. and yank the dipstick - is the oil foamy, brown (chocolate milk looking),... or overfull ? Could have a blown head gasket or warped head if it got really hot?

Best of Luck!
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:52 AM   #7
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Don't scare me like this...I checked the oil, and It looks normal, but is low. The heat gauge worked a week ago when I bought it, and It stuck at around 190 ish without overheating....If my head is warped I would need a new engine wouldn't I? Or just the head? This Jeep is proving to be quite the project...
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:42 AM   #8
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Replace the coolant temperature sensor and get your gauge working asap.
It's perfectly normal not to be able to put as much coolant back in as what came out. It means you have air trapped within the block. Leave the radiator cap on, park facing up a hill and let idle for 15 minutes. Everything will start to work again including your heater.
After 15 minutes, add coolant to the reservoir tank if needed. Not the radiator.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:58 AM   #9
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Ok now as to the gauge it worked and then stopped working and if I tapped it it would work again...would that be the gauge itself then?
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:00 PM   #10
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If your gauge worked prior to replacing the water pump.... check the wiring and plug at the thermostat to make sure it's fully connected not broken. Oil looks good?.... (Good sign), other signs of bad head or gasket are heavy smoking from the exhaust, obvious oil in the water, and keep an eye on the look of the oil and its level.

Would still suggest a good flushing.. get the gunk out and replace with a good coolant. If you can't get it straightened out find yourself a trustworthy mechanic to take a look and give you some options.
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:07 PM   #11
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I don't believe my sensor is by the thermostat,..at least I didn't see it. And it sporadically worked prior to water pump. Sometimes it needed a tap or two lol
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:07 PM   #12
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Well crap. I checked the oil today, and It has all kinds of coolant in it...crap. I'm wondering if the water pump I installed worked, but the heater core was so plugged it built pressure and blew my head gasket...seems far fetched, but I don't know. I checked it before I drove it today, and it was fine.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:35 PM   #13
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I just changed the temp sensor in my 94 4-banger. I'm not sure on the 6 cyl. But mine was on the back of the block on the drivers side. I broke the plastic part on the first one, so be more careful than I did.
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:55 PM   #14
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Was the reason you installed a new pump overheating?
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:54 PM   #15
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No because it had a gravel noise and my heat didn't work well....
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:30 PM   #16
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If your pulling the head to replace the gasket make sure you take the head to a motor machine shop and have the head milled and valve's seats reground.
doing this along with a new timing chain will be a great investment.
and make sure you go with a fail safe thermostat.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:45 PM   #17
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I will be taking it tomorrow if everything goes well how hard is the timing chain and gear?
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:12 PM   #18
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not hard at all just get a harmonic balancer puller to make the hardest part of the job easy.
most parts stores will lend ya one.
and like a said before feel free to give me a call if ya need some help while your turning a wrench.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tang87 View Post
Well crap. I checked the oil today, and It has all kinds of coolant in it...crap. I'm wondering if the water pump I installed worked, but the heater core was so plugged it built pressure and blew my head gasket...seems far fetched, but I don't know. I checked it before I drove it today, and it was fine.
That Bites! Sorry to hear it.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:14 AM   #20
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Yeah thanks. Any tips for taking the bolts of the manifolds underneath?
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:57 PM   #21
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Plenty of WD-40 and patience, a few beers won't hurt either
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:03 PM   #22
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As far as getting to them.... not really... they are a pain on almost every engine Heating with a handheld propane torch...and some CRC spray helps.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyk
Plenty of WD-40 and patience, a few beers won't hurt either
Alright got all of them off...they were finger tight odd. I pulled intake and exhaust manifold off then dealt with it lol. I dread putting this back together
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:37 PM   #24
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Alright got all of them off...they were finger tight odd. I pulled intake and exhaust manifold off then dealt with it lol. I dread putting this back together
Fortunate..... half the time they are so tight you end up snapping one or two.

As long as you don't have parts left over your good
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:45 PM   #25
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We will see. When I torque the head back down do I do it in steps? I know the order but do I just torque them all down one at a time or tighten them gradually?
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:29 PM   #26
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I have always done mine in steps (military training on diesel engines). My Haynes manual does not call for it though. Taking a few extra minutes to torque your head bolts in steps, may not be necessary, but certainly won't hurt. Watch for bolt #11 in tightening sequence, it must pass thru water passage and calls for sealant on threads.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:30 PM   #27
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Ooh thank you I will be sure to add sealant greatly appreciated that woulda sucked if I didn't and it leaked again
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:53 PM   #28
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need info..

I have coolant leaking form behind my fan clutch assembly and I can tell where it is coming from, any suggestions?
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:25 PM   #29
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That would be the water pump but might be the thermostat housing leaking down onto the water pump. You have the 258 engine?
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:21 PM   #30
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Give us an update if you find it

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