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Old 09-05-2013, 07:59 AM   #61
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tank repair

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Originally Posted by Mbclark View Post
Yes they go to the canister, they're vent hoses and should go to a T before the canister. How did the tank repair go? I repaired mine a month ago and it held for about 500 miles. Had to replace the tank last night.
I used JB weld last night. I will find out very soon. I just got the new hoses and will have to run a brand new vacuum hose to the canister because I cant fish the original from the frame. (prolly a better plan to replace anyway its just more work)
ill post pics of the patch job this evening

Does anyone have a diagram showing which hose goes to the tank from the canister?

I am going to sand the repair down today and place more JB weld just to hopefully reinforce the repair. then I am going to primer and spray rhino lining over than. After all that I am going to place a rubber mat between the skid plate and the tank
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:40 AM   #62
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I used JB weld on mine to and undercoat and put some packing plastic between the tank and the skid plate.

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Old 09-06-2013, 02:14 PM   #63
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I might have overlooked it but did you get your starter problem fixed?
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:19 PM   #64
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I might have overlooked it but did you get your starter problem fixed?
Yes I did
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:11 PM   #65
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Dd you get t to start? What dd you do?
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #66
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Dd you get t to start? What dd you do?
Yes I did but how I do not know what did it but what I did before it did start was move two ground wires and cleaned the battery terminals and also I was jumping it for about 20 min or so.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:41 PM   #67
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Odd. You would thing a bad ground would make it not work at all.

But, at least it's working now. All the hard work and headaches paid off!
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:58 PM   #68
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Odd. You would thing a bad ground would make it not work at all.

But, at least it's working now. All the hard work and headaches paid off!
Yeah it is but yes it does now I have to deal with the no clutch.
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:23 PM   #69
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So what seal or whats broken if clutch or break fluid really is leaking from here....

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Old 09-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #70
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The fluid looks like brake fluid and it looks to be coming from the bell/clutch housing. Your 1990 has an internal throwout bearing. It could be the bearing seals, however, it could be leaking at the connection to the bearings or it may be leaking from the connection externally and running into the bell housing and out the bottom drain slot behind the inspection plate.
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:54 PM   #71
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The fluid looks like brake fluid and it looks to be coming from the bell/clutch housing. Your 1990 has an internal throwout bearing. It could be the bearing seals, however, it could be leaking at the connection to the bearings or it may be leaking from the connection externally and running into the bell housing and out the bottom drain slot behind the inspection plate.
Alright cause it just started this and I put the dot 3 in there which is what is advised to go in there and I pump the clutch and all I put in there goes straight through it. And how hard is it to change that? Would it be easier to pull the transmission or the engine?
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:45 PM   #72
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If its the internal slave cylinder all you need to do is drop the tranny. Then swap out the leaking ISC. But if it is just a line leaking like suggested it could be a ten minute fix. If not at least 3 hrs to drop and replace the ISC.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:09 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Undead-89 View Post
By the way that tank was part of a recall because the seal around the filler or sensor would leak. Jeep fixed them for free at one time.

As far as the motor, I am going to assume you rotated it by hand when you got it to make sure it wasn't seized.

Usually if the the starter is just clicking, your battery is too low to turn it over.

Clutch sounds like it needs fluid or need to be bled. or the slave cylinder is leaking.
Undead89 I just dropped my tank for a frame repair and I had leakage around the filler neck. I replaced the hoses and it's gotten better, but not fixed. Do I understand your post that yj filler necks have an issue with leaking? I can't afford to be a parts hanger. but that looks like the only option.

95 YJ 2.5L 1.5" lift, 30.5X9.5X15
and rust
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:21 AM   #74
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If its the internal slave cylinder all you need to do is drop the tranny. Then swap out the leaking ISC. But if it is just a line leaking like suggested it could be a ten minute fix. If not at least 3 hrs to drop and replace the ISC.
Alright well if it is the ISC where do they usually sell them cause I looked online at advance and google searched it and nothing in both places. Or would advance have it in the store but not on there website?
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:18 AM   #75
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You can purchase separately or as part of a clutch kit.
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89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.

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Old 09-09-2013, 09:20 PM   #76
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You can purchase separately or as part of a clutch kit.
Alright thanks! Hopefully its just a line
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:01 PM   #77
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So its the internal slave cylinder that's leaking which is fine since its kinda of an easy fix I already got the trans out and the isc out but advance is selling it for 100 bucks and the whole clutch kit is 135 bucks so while everything's out I am going to replace everything down there so I do not have to do all this again.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #78
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Is there any certain torque specs to the bolts that connect the pressure plate to the flywheel? Also the flywheel to the engine?
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:50 PM   #79
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #80
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Why would there be exhaust coming out of both of these places (its a video by the way)

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