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Old 07-07-2011, 04:27 PM   #1
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Exclamation would do research but dont have that much time... brakes

i was driving and it was fine, parked it for about 10 min and came back out and my left front brake wont disengage. i checked my fluid its full, looked at my brake booster seemed to be fine. any ideas?

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Old 07-07-2011, 05:13 PM   #2
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Take the wheel off and check it out. Probably the caliper is shot and you need a new one. Bang it with a hammer and see what happens. Are you sure its the left front and not the parking brake ?

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Old 07-07-2011, 05:59 PM   #3
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Possible causes are a frozen caliper piston, frozen caliper slides, or a restricted hose. Most likely not frozen slides as they don't tend to stop the wheel from turning, you'd just wipe out your inboard pad quick.

Remove the caliper. You'll have a fun time prying it off it it's locked tight. Try pressing in the piston-- if you don't have the specific tool a large channel lock plier or C-clamp will do. If it won't retract, you most likely have a frozen piston. Before you call it, check that the hose is not restricted by loosening the bleeder screw on the caliper and trying to push in the piston again. If it moves, replace the hose, if it doesn't, replace the caliper.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:17 AM   #4
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ya im sure its not my parking break.
my front left disk was smoking and smelt like burning brakes.
and when i was driving it it would pull left, when i hit the brakes it pulls right
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:34 AM   #5
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Just do what onroad said and unscrew the bleeder and have someone press the brake pedal in. If you see brake fluid come out then you know the caliper is the problem. Take it off and put a new one on, then bleed the brakes and you should be good to go. Its smoking because the pads are stuck and your pulling to the right because you only have the front right brake working.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:37 AM   #6
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i know thats where the smoking and the pulling is coming from. i was clarifying for stimpy
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:39 AM   #7
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and this morning i took it around the block... it was fine. dont know if that shows anything else or not
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by misweetrevenge View Post
and this morning i took it around the block... it was fine. dont know if that shows anything else or not
Sometimes it will go away, or what seems like it does until the rotor and pads heat back up.

I had the exact same situation, my problem wasnt the rotor or anything but the pads.

The rivets that hold the outer pad to the metal backing popped loose making the pad extrude from the caliper and making it constantly grind on the rotor. Returned the pads, got new ones. Works great.
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Old 07-08-2011, 03:01 PM   #9
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Sometimes it will go away, or what seems like it does until the rotor and pads heat back up.

I had the exact same situation, my problem wasnt the rotor or anything but the pads.

The rivets that hold the outer pad to the metal backing popped loose making the pad extrude from the caliper and making it constantly grind on the rotor. Returned the pads, got new ones. Works great.
ok cool. i was gonna pull my wheel off and clean it all with brake clean and make sure the pads are in tight.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:15 PM   #10
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so i pulled my wheel off today, pads were fine, cleaned the disks, greased the sliders and all thats fine. i know having an "empty" pedal means you need to bleed your brakes, but could this be caused by air bubbles too? thanks. dont really want to pay $ to get them inspected and then more $ to get it fixed. rather see if i can do it myself but starting to run out of ideas. thanks guys
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:46 PM   #11
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A soft spongy, or low pedal means you probably need to bleed the brakes, and that is nothing other than having air trapped in the lines. You can also get a low pedal from rear shoes out of adjustment... too much clearance between shoe and drum. Wouldn't be a cause of a locked up wheel though.

For reference if you want to bleed them anyway, it's easy. Open the master reservoir and top it off. The correct order is each wheel starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder-- R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F. Have someone sit in the vehicle and pump the pedal a few times. Then have them hold the pedal down. As they are holding, open the bleeder screw until your helper confirms the pedal has hit the floor, then close off the bleeder. Repeat on the same wheel a few times until there are no more bubbles in the fluid coming out the bleeder (if any). Then move on to the next wheel. All the while monitor the level in the reservoir and keep it full. If it runs dry you'll have to bleed the master and start all over again.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:54 PM   #12
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If you end up replacing one caliper, replace them both.

Brakes have been the Achilles heal of my 94. After 16 years of driving it I've learned when I do brakes to just replace both calipers, both rotors, and pads.

Motive Products has a nice little power bleeder to make bleeding them a simple one man job.
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:41 PM   #13
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ya if you replace one side your supposed to replace both. same with tires and the sort. otherwise you get uneven wear and can damage it again, or something else.
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:47 PM   #14
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I had the front passenger wheel seizing up on my 03 rubicon. Would stop, let it cool off, and check it-nothing wrong. Had the rotor burned blue, got it replaced, next week...locked up again. FINALLY had a mechanic that knew what he was doing and checked the HUB...and my hub bearing was shot. Allowed the wheel to 'wobble' just enough to heat up the brake pads, and once they were hot-and I applied the brakes, they would seize up. New hub, new rotors, etc. and everything has been fine!
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:03 PM   #15
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sounds irritating. that might be whats goin on. although yesterday when i was greasing the pins on the calliper, the brakes were cool but still were rubbing. and they were when i pressed the piston back in to get em back on it was really nice. and then i pumped the pedal a few times to get my brakes back and it was just the same as before. and i hadnt even drivin it yet

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