bought a 89 2.5l Wrangler manual trans which had been sitting a while. Drove it home on 3 cylinders (no power, 35 mph max) and around trying to burn old fuel. It quit running and I can't get going again.
I drained almost all fuel and put in new. Unit had new distributor, wires and coil prior to purchase and was operational. I inspected the cap and rotor and still appears new. Changed plugs anyway (didn't gap) and new oil and filter. Also put in new injector and throttle body parts and new fuel filter. Battery is good.
Engine turns over, has fuel and spark but will not run. It seems to want and almost start but doesn't. Almost seems to have a "kill switch" not allowing it to run. It is manual and with and with out clutch engaged, same. Vacuum lines appear ok although there is one that is not hooked up and not sure what it goes to. Reviewed vacuum hose chart and almost all are correct. Can't imagine vacuum line causing no start.
Any assistance appreciated before I push off to mechanic.
Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on the driver side of the bellhousing. You may want to crawl under and remove it and look at the wiring. May even replace the thing it tells the ECU info for ignition timing. That sounds like it wants to fire off indicates and ignition timing problem.
Have you done a compression test lately. I know you have thrown a lot of parts at it but you might want to check compression on all 4 even cold it will give you some idea whats going on inside. Since it last ran on 3 cylinders you may have something wrong that is keeping it from starting. In my case #2 had both rocker arms off for whatever reason that was when PO parked it.
89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.
Thanks for all of the assistance. Instead of a compression test, I pulled the valve cover and turned the engine over. I noticed the #3 cylinder valves were not cycling and saw another rocker not moving.
I am not sure if the timing belt broke or what the cause is but will be preforming major surgery in the next few days. The Chilton manual has detailed instructions on removal and reassembly so it shouldn't be to much of a problem, I hope.
Thanks. Mr. Mud and 91 YJ- sprayed starter fluid a number of times and didn't change the outcome. Will look again for the crank sensor and report.
At this point, I haven't removed anything more than the valve cover and am tempted to have mechanic handle if it is not the crank sensor.
did you say the valves are not moving? were you able to cycle through all cylinders?
hate to say it, but if you roll that engine over through all of the firing order, and valves don't move, thats usually a broken push rod. Its mechanical, the Cam shaft pushes the lifters, the lifters push the push rods and the push rods push the rocker arms and the rocker arms open and close the valves. No sensors, no belts, it should be metal to metal riding on the lobes of your cam shaft.
With the valve cover off, I turned the engine over watching the rocker arms rock and noticed that the #2 cylinder rockers didn't move and the # 3 rocker (exhaust, I believe) didn't move. I removed the brackets holding the rockers, turned it over and the push rods did move without the tension of the rocker on them. Reassembled the rockers and brackets, turned over but no rock on those three. I noticed all three of these rods had slack in them and I could remove them without removing the rocker. They also seemed loose in there holes. All other push rods and rockers where tight.I didn't check to see if they are bent but will this evening. I suppose a little bend could cause this slack.
Am I thinking correctly or could there be an issue with the lifters?
Want to work this out before looking for the crank sensor and removing the head.
your right on track... could just be bent push rods. Sometimes I've seen a lifter get stuck as well. If you put a straight rod into the hole where a short one is and it won't fit, the lifters could be stuck in there.
I pulled the push rods out last night and rolled them on a mirror and they do not appear to be bent. I put some blaster down the holes and it appears the lifters are moving a bit. Very strange why these push rods have "slack" in them even after numerous engine turns.
I push the rod in the hole and it did have some push back. I am going to pull a push rod from a working lifter and see what happens as you recommend, 7. Will see how it goes.