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Old 08-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #1
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YJ AC low pressure switch

I have narrowed it down, that I need the low pressure switch for my stock YJ AC. The problem is that my local Jeep dealer told me they are discontinued. I went to NAPA Auto Parts, and they couldn't locate one either.
If anyone knows where I could buy a new switch, please let me know. Thanks.

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Old 08-20-2013, 04:16 PM   #2
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I have narrowed it down, that I need the low pressure switch for my stock YJ AC. The problem is that my local Jeep dealer told me they are discontinued. I went to NAPA Auto Parts, and they couldn't locate one either.
If anyone knows where I could buy a new switch, please let me know. Thanks.
What Year ? If it is 94-95 it shold be available (R134a)
87-93 may no longer be available (R-12) even if it has been retrofited using the R-12 switch you may have to change a line to get a R-134a switch to work.R-12 and R134aswitches have different threads. Post a good pic of where the switch screws on and I can tell.

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Old 08-20-2013, 04:24 PM   #3
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Also a pic of the switch may help. I might have one. I cant remember what a jeep one looks like off the top of my head.
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:27 PM   #4
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1993 4.0 High Output
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:28 PM   #5
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Here's a pic
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:31 PM   #6
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The reason you cant find it is that is the high pressure switch.If it goes on the drier it is high pressure, low pressure would be between the evaporator and the compressor.
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:40 PM   #7
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I'm trying to not convert to r134, and supposedly this switch can be swapped out without discharging my r12 that is fully charged
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:41 PM   #8
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Thanks to the Jeep dealership, they printed out the diagram showing me what I needed. I guess I got the "new guy" behind the parts counter. Thanks for the info mowrangler
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:50 PM   #9
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Low pressure switches can be replaced with out discharging the system,every high pressure switch I have seen on the drier had to be replaced with an empty system or they came with the new drier.I dont believe there are any more R-12 driers out there you may be forced to retrofit. Its bad karma to put R-134A into a drier not ment for it the desicant bag inside will rupture and mess upthe entire system.Check with the dealer and see if there is a drier available for your 93, 94-95 are R-134a.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:08 PM   #10
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I had mime converted to 134 all he did was change the fill port ,pump it down and refill with 134.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:29 PM   #11
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Mowrangler.....you bucking for the JeepMaster title around here? Very impressive information and the high pressure switch call was very cool. Great that you are here
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:31 PM   #12
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I had mime converted to 134 all he did was change the fill port ,pump it down and refill with 134.
Yes there all kind of people who think they know how to do this, and for years I made a living fixing exactly what you described you had done.
Mineral oil in R-13 when mixed with R-134a is corossive which leads to compressor failure. Drier desicants are incompatable, charging amounts have to be controled to fractions of an ounce, expansion devises have to be calibrated to operate at higher pressure.Compressors and condensors have to be in top notch shape otherwise they dont cool properly or the system doesnt last. There is a lot more too it than just changing fittings and juicing her up. I have seen it all.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:39 PM   #13
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Mowrangler.....you bucking for the JeepMaster title around here? Very impressive information and the high pressure switch call was very cool. Great that you are here
Thanks I appreciate that.
Actually this info is really outdated useless for the majority of the public.
I made a pile of money from guys @ the local AFB who attempted retrofits and failed.I am a retired ASE certified master tech and ran an a/c shop for 10 years along with being a tech/service manager for a used car dealer.
Sometimes I may come off as being a know at all and I dont mean to be but I hate to see people make simple mistakes that cost them money for no reason. I will keep putting my .02 in as long as you will have me.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:55 PM   #14
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Thanks I appreciate that.
Actually this info is really outdated useless for the majority of the public.
I made a pile of money from guys @ the local AFB who attempted retrofits and failed.I am a retired ASE certified master tech and ran an a/c shop for 10 years along with being a tech/service manager for a used car dealer.
Sometimes I may come off as being a know at all and I dont mean to be but I hate to see people make simple mistakes that cost them money for no reason. I will keep putting my .02 in as long as you will have me.
You're hired. Report to this forum every morning for new assignments and tardiness will not be tolerated.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:58 PM   #15
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Forgot. For the time being the Dragon is your supervisor
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:11 PM   #16
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Forgot. For the time being the Dragon is your supervisor
Will Do . I dont mind Dragon being in charge I have worked for guys younger than me and I have always learned something.
Besides he probably knows more about Jeeps than I do and he has seniority on me.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:32 PM   #17
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oh hell,I missed all this..when is payday ?? I know basically nothing about a/c's
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:48 PM   #18
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Yes there all kind of people who think they know how to do this, and for years I made a living fixing exactly what you described you had done.
Mineral oil in R-13 when mixed with R-134a is corossive which leads to compressor failure. Drier desicants are incompatable, charging amounts have to be controled to fractions of an ounce, expansion devises have to be calibrated to operate at higher pressure.Compressors and condensors have to be in top notch shape otherwise they dont cool properly or the system doesnt last. There is a lot more too it than just changing fittings and juicing her up. I have seen it all.
R-13 no such critter out there? R-11 is a cleaning solvent. R-12 is the way to go! 134-A yer gonna need a few things, condenser coil, metering tube, compressor, pretty much everything's gotta go for the long term plan that is...btw wanna buy some R-12? I still have some?

I know R-13 is a typo just tryin to get paid Too!! JK
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:16 PM   #19
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Yes there all kind of people who think they know how to do this, and for years I made a living fixing exactly what you described you had done.
Mineral oil in R-13 when mixed with R-134a is corossive which leads to compressor failure. Drier desicants are incompatable, charging amounts have to be controled to fractions of an ounce, expansion devises have to be calibrated to operate at higher pressure.Compressors and condensors have to be in top notch shape otherwise they dont cool properly or the system doesnt last. There is a lot more too it than just changing fittings and juicing her up. I have seen it all.




This is not my first goat roping or county fair. I don't know if you remember that far back. but in the early 50s I was working after school at night and weekends I worked for a dealer that sold A R A air conditioners for cars before they were aftermarket .nor is this first experience with a Jeep. I have had a love affair with these hunks of junk since I was a wee lad. I really like my Y J I am too old and beat up to do a whole lot of wrenching on mine but I know and can afford to hire people that can and will. I am really lucky to have a couple of guys in the neighborhood that build all kinds of vehicles for the BAJA races from mild to wild and during the off season they are usually looking for something to do.
The r134 conversion I was speaking of was on a 1990 M.H. with a Ford 460 and 3 years later it still blows ice cubes.
And as a after thought I forgot I was born in 1939 and will be 74 years young next month.
I enjoy this forum and hope I can pass on some knowledge and I do very often get a few solutions to my problems here. although I recognize that the collective Age and I.Q. of some here doesn't add up to a 100.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:44 PM   #20
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Forget all this nonsense, I'm buying a Toyota. (Not really)
Baja John, did you ever race off road in District 37?
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:55 PM   #21
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Forget all this nonsense, I'm buying a Toyota. (Not really)
Baja John, did you ever race off road in District 37?






No I didn't I lived in Fontana Ca. when they had the races to Vegas. Those were some wild event. For the last 12 years I have lived in a little place south of Ensenada. There is a lot of action down here but sadly it's became big business and a lot of the little guys cant compete. They do still have some 200 / 250 milers where they do race those are the fun ones.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #22
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My dad was in those races too. Barstow to Vegas. A couple years ago I restored his 1968 Husqvarna Viking that he raced there and District 37
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:15 AM   #23
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R-13 no such critter out there? R-11 is a cleaning solvent. R-12 is the way to go! 134-A yer gonna need a few things, condenser coil, metering tube, compressor, pretty much everything's gotta go for the long term plan that is...btw wanna buy some R-12? I still have some?

I know R-13 is a typo just tryin to get paid Too!! JK
R-13 was a typo I meant R-134a
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:21 AM   #24
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Mowrangler, I am even more confused, now that I have this diagram. The switch I took pictures of (shown above) is located in the place the diagram shows, and has the same colored wires.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:48 PM   #25
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A/c low pressure switches are ALWAYs between the evaporator and the compressor, That is the only place in an a/c system you have low pressure.
Low pressure switches are there to prevent the compressor from running because of a lack of freon or an evaporator freeze up and are typicall tied in with the thermostatic switch inside the evap housing..High pressure switches are between the compressor and the expansion valve to prevent over pressurization of the system.The diagram you are showing me a typical system with only a low pressure switch. The picture you showed me is one of a high pressure switch, only high pressure is the liquid lines that go thru the drier.If you have a thermostatic switch in the evap housing That will cover freeze up conditions but it wont protect the compressor in a low charge state. The high pressure switch protects the system from over pressurization ie: too much freon , bad fan clutch or a condensor that is blocked or restricted internally.If it were my Jeep I would bypass the offending switch with a set of A/C gauges in place and watch the pressures, @ 85-90 degrees they should read Aprox. 30 on the low side and around 200 or so on the high side if so your air should be cold.
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Old 07-12-2014, 08:02 AM   #26
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I found this thread and it has some good info, and I don't want to hi jack it but I have an ac question of my own. I have a 90 yj 2.5 and the ac runs cold most of the time. But sometimes it will warm up for a little while then go cold again. It's all sapartic, there's no set length of time that it's cold them warm or how long it stays warm. I have gauges put on it and they read normal. I'm not an ac guy so where should I start?
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:43 AM   #27
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if A/C is important to you,then the cost of the retrofit to 134 should not be an issue...replace your compressor and accumulator with all new and enjoy!

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