IT has Already been determined that 4WD is Working Properly, His trouble is that the 4WD Light will not go Off. I posted a link earlier to a discussion about this issue, apparently there is a Switch (inside the housing for the disconnect)that can become corroded and stick.......so even though everything else is Working Properly....the light stays on.
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
I just got my '90 wrangler running again, it has been garaged for over 1 year, but I have a problem with the vacumn lines that control the front axle shift motor. Where the vacumn lines rune under the battery the lines have been eaten away by battery acid and also the vacumn pots are completed gone. Does any one have a scematic of how these lines go back together? Thanks
anybody has ever removed and checked how the vacuum shift motor works ? since there is 3 hoses (wich one is for the dash light) i figured that the 2 other ones use to slide the fork left or right...the question is could it work with only one hose ? is there a spring inside of it wich replace the fork ? because i use the t-case from a cherokee and my vacuum switch on my yj t-case is broken i wanted to operate the front axle lock with an air switch in the dash but a switch can operate only one hose
heres what i came up with using a air/electrical 10$ selenoid, IF the vacuum actuator on the axle shift housing is well made(the vacuum little cell where the rubber part is and makes the shaft to move) this can be a good solution for MANUALLY locking the intermediate shaft without changing the vacuum actuator, could also fit for air application instead vacuum (using a compressor, reservoir and a air actuator
I'm just making this up, but I think this may work to find out if it's your acuator. Only lift the passenger side tire (side with the actuator, leave the driver's side on the ground. Rotate that tire and see if it turns your forward drive shaft. if it turns the shaft at all, or you cannot rotate the tire, then that means your actuator is still enguaged
I own a Rubicon, its on layaway with Quadratec...on a part-by-part basis
It is activated in the axle disconnect housing. I havn't personnaly been in there to see it.... But I am imagining some type of Button/Pin that gets pressed when the axle is engaged, it becomes corroded and Sticks.......completing the circuit and making the 4WD light stay on.
theres another thread about this somehwere where I posted a link I found that explaines it pretty good.
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
I got tired of this crap and pulled my right axle out, I took the cover off the disconnect and took a cutoff wheel and cut the shift fork off then I installed a one piece axle out of a TJ i bought from e-bay for 20 bucks. works great and the 4wd drive light stills comes on and goes off when i move the lever.
94 YJ,, Warn Rock Sliders,GPS, Flowmaster Exhaust,Cd Player,Hi Lift,7500lb winch,full width Dana 44 front, 9inch Rear,soa,Teraflex supershort sye, 38X12.50-15 swampers, 5.38 gears,Detroit Lockers, Cobra CB, Handthrottle. Built By Me
Hey guys, I think its time I beat this rotting horse even more. I just picked up a yj and am getting it road ready. It wasnt really running right at all, but that was solved by a weber 34 which was soo easy. My second problem is the 4wd. I've followed this thread and others and am still having some trouble. Heres where I'm at:
Red line: hooked to carb vac
green line from trans: has good vac when shifter in 2wd and no vac when in 4wd
blue line: plugged
hard black line: no vac ever and not hooked to anything currently
yellow lines: always have vac and one is hooked to nothing
soft black: huh?
So where do I go from here. Where should this soft black line be? I'm not sure if its actually going into 4wd because I cant drive it right now, I need to finish the throttle linkage before I can drive it. Thanks for the help ahead of time.
I had the same problem and found the lines too brittle to repair as they kept breaking off after I spliced in new pieces. I opted to go to a new harness which costs about $50 and is worth it when you consider the amount of trouble it is to continually patch the old vac lines.
A useful article with pictures of the vacuum motor and identification of the lines is at:http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801fee9c.jsp
I also had the same problems as everyone listed. I pulled it all out and installed the posi-lock and it works great. The dash light is activated by a pin switch in the housing. Mine was stuck in the on position but the vaccum was not working so I went 1/2 the trail in 2 wd. wasn't till I got stuck on a hill we found the front wasn't turning. To me its worth replacing just to avoid the possability of breaking a line on the trail and having to get towed back.
1993 YJ lifted with a 3 1/2 skyjacker, 1 3/4 front and rear lift shackles , custom made 6061 aluminum 1 3/4 body lift ,Smittybuilt front and rear 3in tube bummpers and Nerf bars, JKS front disconnects,(removed the rear track bar)Rancho 9000 shocks,400 watts of trail lights on custom mounts,a front 4X4 posilock from Quadratec to replace the vacuum engagement system.33x12.5 on black d window cragers. Corbeu Moab seats with Corbeu 4 point race belts.